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第5章

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in this venerable city has a decidedly Spanish stamp。 It lies too much

out of the frequented track of foreign travel to have its old usages

trampled out。 Here I observed old men still wearing the montero; or

ancient hunting cap; once common throughout Spain; while the young men

wore the little round…crowned hat; with brim turned up all round; like

a cup turned down in its saucer; while the brim was set off with

little black tufts like cockades。 The women; too; were all in

mantillas and basquinas。 The fashions of Paris had not reached

Antiquera。

  Pursuing our course through a spacious street; we put up at the

posada of San Fernando。 As Antiquera; though a considerable city;

is; as I observed; somewhat out of the track of travel; I had

anticipated bad quarters and poor fare at the inn。 I was agreeably

disappointed; therefore; by a supper table amply supplied; and what

were still more acceptable; good clean rooms and comfortable beds。 Our

man; Sancho; felt himself as well off as his namesake; when he had the

run of the duke's kitchen; and let me know; as I retired for the

night; that it had been a proud time for the alforjas。

  Early in the morning (May 4th) I strolled to the ruins of the old

Moorish castle; which itself had been reared on the ruins of a Roman

fortress。 Here; taking my seat on the remains of a crumbling tower;

I enjoyed a grand and varied landscape; beautiful in itself; and

full of storied and romantic associations; for I was now in the very

heart of the country famous for the chivalrous contests between Moor

and Christian。 Below me; in its lap of hills; lay the old warrior city

so often mentioned in chronicle and ballad。 Out of yon gate and down

yon hill paraded the band of Spanish cavaliers; of highest rank and

bravest bearing; to make that foray during the war and conquest of

Granada; which ended in the lamentable massacre among the mountains of

Malaga; and laid all Andalusia in mourning。 Beyond spread out the

vega; covered with gardens and orchards and fields of grain and

enamelled meadows; inferior only to the famous vega of Granada。 To the

right the Rock of the Lovers stretched like a cragged promontory

into the plain; whence the daughter of the Moorish alcayde and her

lover; when closely pursued; threw themselves in despair。

  The matin peal from church and convent below me rang sweetly in

the morning air; as I descended。 The market…place was beginning to

throng with the populace; who traffic in the abundant produce of the

vega; for this is the mart of an agricultural region。 In the

market…place were abundance of freshly plucked roses for sale; for not

a dame or damsel of Andalusia thinks her gala dress complete without a

rose shining like a gem among her raven tresses。

  On returning to the inn I found our man Sancho; in high gossip

with the landlord and two or three of his hangers…on。 He had just been

telling some marvellous story about Seville; which mine host seemed

piqued to match with one equally marvellous about Antiquera。 There was

once a fountain; he said; in one of the public squares called IL

fuente del toro; the fountain of the bull; because the water gushed

from the mouth of a bull's head; carved of stone。 Underneath the

head was inscribed:



                     EN FRENTE DEL TORO

                      SE HALLEN TESORO。



(In front of the bull there is treasure。) Many digged in front of

the fountain; but lost their labor and found no money。 At last one

knowing fellow construed the motto a different way。 It is in the

forehead (frente) of the bull that the treasure is to be found; said

he to himself; and I am the man to find it。 Accordingly he came late

at night; with a mallet; and knocked the head to pieces; and what do

you think he found?

  〃Plenty of gold and diamonds!〃 cried Sancho eagerly。

  〃He found nothing;〃 rejoined mine host dryly; 〃and he ruined the

fountain。〃

  Here a great laugh was set up by the landlord's hangers…on; who

considered Sancho completely taken in by what I presume was one of

mine host's standing jokes。

  Leaving Antiquera at eight O'clock; we had a delightful ride along

the little river; and by gardens and orchards; fragrant with the odors

of spring and vocal with the nightingale。 Our road passed round the

Rock of the Lovers (el Penon de los Enamorados); which rose in a

precipice above us。 In the course of the morning we passed through

Archidona; situated in the breast of a high hill; with a three…pointed

mountain towering above it; and the ruins of a Moorish fortress。 It

was a great toil to ascend a steep stony street leading up into the

city; although it bore the encouraging name of Calle Real del Llano

(the Royal Street of the Plain); but it was still a greater toil to

descend from this mountain city on the other side。

  At noon we halted in sight of Archidona; in a pleasant little meadow

among hills covered with olive…trees。 Our cloaks were spread on the

grass; under an elm by the side of a bubbling rivulet; our horses were

tethered where they might crop the herbage; and Sancho was told to

produce his alforjas。 He had been unusually silent this morning ever

since the laugh raised at his expense; but now his countenance

brightened; and he produced his alforjas with an air of triumph。

They contained the contributions of four days' journeying; but had

been signally enriched by the foraging of the previous evening in

the plenteous inn at Antiquera; and this seemed to furnish him with

a set…off to the banter of mine host。



                     EN FRENTE DEL TORO

                      SE HALLEN TESORO



would he exclaim; with a chuckling laugh; as he drew forth the

heterogeneous contents one by one; in a series which seemed to have no

end。 First came forth a shoulder of roasted kid; very little the worse

for wear; then an entire partridge; then a great morsel of salted

codfish wrapped in paper; then the residue of a ham; then the half

of a pullet; together with several rolls of bread; and a rabble rout

of oranges; figs; raisins; and walnuts。 His bota also had been

recruited with some excellent wine of Malaga。 At every fresh

apparition from his larder; he would enjoy our ludicrous surprise;

throwing himself back on the grass; shouting with laughter; and

exclaiming 〃Frente del toro!… frente del toro! Ah; senores; they

thought Sancho a simpleton at Antiquera; but Sancho knew where to find

the tesoro。〃

  While we were diverting ourselves with his simple drollery; a

solitary beggar approached; who had almost the look of a pilgrim。 He

had a venerable gray beard; and was evidently very old; supporting

himself on a staff; yet age had not bowed him down; he was tall and

erect; and had the wreck of a fine form。 He wore a round Andalusian

hat; a sheep…skin jacket; and leathern breeches; gaiters; and sandals。

His dress; though old and patched; was decent; his demeanor manly; and

he addressed us with the grave courtesy that is to be remarked in

the lowest Spaniard。 We were in a favorable mood for such a visitor;

and in a freak of capricious charity gave him some silver; a loaf of

fine wheaten bread; and a goblet of our choice wine of Malaga。 He

received them thankfully; but without any grovelling tribute of

gratitude。 Tasting the wine; he held it up to the light; with a slight

beam of surprise in his eye; then quaffing it off at a draught; 〃It is

many years;〃 said he; 〃since I have tasted such wine。 It is a

cordial to an old man's heart。〃 Then; looking at the beautiful wheaten

loaf; 〃Bendito sea tal pan!〃 〃Blessed be such bread!〃 So saying; he

put it in his wallet。 We urged him to eat it on the spot。 〃No;

senores;〃 replied he; 〃the wine I had either to drink or leave; but

the bread I may take home to share with my family。〃

  Our man Sancho sought our eye; and reading permission there; gave

the old man some of the ample fragments of our repast; on condition;

however; that he should sit down and make a meal。

  He

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