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rude and simple; consisting of but few inflections。 These he chants

forth with a loud voice; and long; drawling cadence; seated sideways

on his mule; who seems to listen with infinite gravity; and to keep

time; with his paces; to the tune。 The couplets thus chanted; are

often old traditional romances about the Moors; or some legend of a

saint; or some love…ditty; or; what is still more frequent; some

ballad about a bold contrabandista; or hardy bandolero; for the

smuggler and the robber are poetical heroes among the common people of

Spain。 Often; the song of the muleteer is composed at the instant; and

relates to some local scene; or some incident of the journey。 This

talent of singing and improvising is frequent in Spain; and is said to

have been inherited from the Moors。 There is something wildly pleasing

in listening to these ditties among the rude and lonely scenes they

illustrate; accompanied; as they are; by the occasional jingle of

the mule…bell。

  It has a most picturesque effect also to meet a train of muleteers

in some mountain…pass。 First you hear the bells of the leading

mules; breaking with their simple melody the stillness of the airy

height; or; perhaps; the voice of the muleteer admonishing some

tardy or wandering animal; or chanting; at the full stretch of his

lungs; some traditionary ballad。 At length you see the mules slowly

winding along the cragged defile; sometimes descending precipitous

cliffs; so as to present themselves in full relief against the sky;

sometimes toiling up the deep arid chasms below you。 As they approach;

you descry their gay decorations of worsted stuffs; tassels; and

saddle…cloths; while; as they pass by; the ever…ready trabuco; slung

behind the packs and saddles; gives a hint of the insecurity of the

road。

  The ancient kingdom of Granada; into which we* were about to

penetrate; is one of the most mountainous regions of Spain。 Vast

sierras; or chains of mountains; destitute of shrub or tree; and

mottled with variegated marbles and granites; elevate their sunburnt

summits against a deep…blue sky; yet in their rugged bosoms lie

ingulfed verdant and fertile valleys; where the desert and the

garden strive for mastery; and the very rock is; as it were; compelled

to yield the fig; the orange; and the citron; and to blossom with

the myrtle and the rose。



  * Note to the Revised Edition。… The Author feels at liberty to

mention that his travelling companion was the Prince Dolgorouki; at

present Russian minister at the Court of Persia。



  In the wild passes of these mountains the sight of walled towns

and villages; built like eagles' nests among the cliffs; and

surrounded by Moorish battlements; or of ruined watchtowers perched on

lofty peaks; carries the mind back to the chivalric days of

Christian and Moslem warfare; and to the romantic struggle for the

conquest of Granada。 In traversing these lofty sierras the traveller

is often obliged to alight; and lead his horse up and down the steep

and jagged ascents and descents; resembling the broken steps of a

staircase。

  Sometimes the road winds along dizzy precipices; without parapet

to guard him from the gulfs below; and then will plunge down steep;

and dark; and dangerous declivities。 Sometimes it struggles through

rugged barrancos; or ravines; worn by winter torrents; the obscure

path of the contrabandista; while; ever and anon; the ominous cross;

the monument of robbery and murder; erected on a mound of stones at

some lonely part of the road; admonishes the traveller that he is

among the haunts of banditti; perhaps at that very moment under the

eye of some lurking bandolero。 Sometimes; in winding through the

narrow valleys; he is startled by a hoarse bellowing; and beholds

above him on some green fold of the mountain a herd of fierce

Andalusian bulls; destined for the combat of the arena。 I have felt;

if I may so express it; an agreeable horror in thus contemplating;

near at hand; these terrific animals; clothed with tremendous

strength; and ranging their native pastures in untamed wildness;

strangers almost to the face of man: they know no one but the solitary

herdsman who attends upon them; and even he at times dares not venture

to approach them。 The low bellowing of these bulls; and their menacing

aspect as they look down from their rocky height; give additional

wildness to the savage scenery。

  I have been betrayed unconsciously into a longer disquisition than I

intended on the general features of Spanish travelling; but there is a

romance about all the recollections of the Peninsula dear to the

imagination。

  As our proposed route to Granada lay through mountainous regions;

where the roads are little better than mule paths; and said to be

frequently beset by robbers; we took due travelling precautions。

Forwarding the most valuable part of our luggage a day or two in

advance by the arrieros; we retained merely clothing and necessaries

for the journey and money for the expenses of the road; with a

little surplus of hard dollars by way of robber purse; to satisfy

the gentlemen of the road should we be assailed。 Unlucky is the too

wary traveller who; having grudged this precaution; falls into their

clutches empty handed: they are apt to give him a sound ribroasting

for cheating them out of their dues。 〃Caballeros like them cannot

afford to scour the roads and risk the gallows for nothing。〃

  A couple of stout steeds were provided for our own mounting; and a

third for our scanty luggage and the conveyance of a sturdy Biscayan

lad; about twenty years of age; who was to be our guide; our groom;

our valet; and at all times our guard。 For the latter office he was

provided with a formidable trabuco or carbine; with which he

promised to defend us against rateros or solitary footpads; but as

to powerful bands; like that of the 〃sons of Ecija;〃 he confessed they

were quite beyond his prowess。 He made much vainglorious boast about

his weapon at the outset of the journey; though; to the discredit of

his generalship; it was suffered to hang unloaded behind his saddle。

  According to our stipulations; the man from whom we hired the horses

was to be at the expense of their feed and stabling on the journey; as

well as of the maintenance of our Biscayan squire; who of course was

provided with funds for the purpose; we took care; however; to give

the latter a private hint; that; though we made a close bargain with

his master; it was all in his favor; as; if he proved a good man and

true; both he and the horses should live at our cost; and the money

provided for their maintenance remain in his pocket。 This unexpected

largess; with the occasional present of a cigar; won his heart

completely。 He was; in truth; a faithful; cheery; kind…hearted

creature; as full of saws and proverbs as that miracle of squires; the

renowned Sancho himself; whose name; by the by; we bestowed upon

him; and like a true Spaniard; though treated by us with companionable

familiarity; he never for a moment; in his utmost hilarity;

overstepped the bounds of respectful decorum。

  Such were our minor preparations for the journey; but above all we

laid in an ample stock of good humor; and a genuine disposition to

be pleased; determining to travel in true contrabandista style; taking

things as we found them; rough or smooth; and mingling with all

classes and conditions in a kind of vagabond companionship。 It is

the true way to travel in Spain。 With such disposition and

determination; what a country is it for a traveller; where the most

miserable inn is as full of adventure as an enchanted castle; and

every meal is in itself an achievement! Let others repine at the

lack of turnpike roads and sumptuous hotels; and all the elaborate

comforts of a country cultivated and civilized into tameness and

commonplace; but give me the rude mountain scramble; the roving;

haphazard; wayfaring; the half wild; yet frank and hospitable manners;

wh

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