north america-2-第84章
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aves。 Men are often mean； but actions are seldom so called。 A man feels mean when the bluster is taken out of him。 A mean hotel； conducted in a quiet unostentatious manner； in which the only endeavor made had reference to the comfort of a few guests； would find no favor in the States。 These hotels are not called by the name of any sign； as with us in our provinces。 There are no 〃Presidents' Heads〃 or 〃General Scotts。〃 Nor by the name of the landlord； or of some former landlord； as with us in London； and in many cities of the Continent。 Nor are they called from some country or city which may have been presumed at some time to have had special patronage for the establishment。 In the nomenclature of American hotels the specialty of American hero worship is shown； as in the nomenclature of their children。 Every inn is a house； and these houses are generally named after some hero； little known probably in the world at large； but highly estimated in that locality at the moment of the christening。 They are always built on a plan which to a European seems to be most unnecessarily extravagant in space。 It is not unfrequently the case that the greater portion of the ground floor is occupied by rooms and halls which make no return to the house whatever。 The visitor enters a great hall by the front door； and almost invariably finds it full of men who are idling about； sitting round on stationary seats； talking in a listless manner； and getting through their time as though the place were a public lounging…room。 And so it is。 The chances are that not half the crowd are guests at the hotel。 I will now follow the visitor as he makes his way up to the office。 Every hotel has an office。 To call this place the bar； as I have done too frequently； is a lamentable error。 The bar is held in a separate room appropriated solely to drinking。 To the office； which is in fact a long open bar； the guest walks up； and there inscribes his name in a book。 This inscription was to me a moment of misery which I could never go through with equanimity。 As the name is written； and as the request for accommodation is made； half a dozen loungers look over your name and listen to what you say。 They listen attentively； and spell your name carefully； but the great man behind the bar does not seem to listen or to heed you； your destiny is never imparted to you on the instant。 If your wife or any other woman be with youthe word 〃lady〃 is made so absolutely distasteful in American hotels that I cannot bring myself to use it in writing of themshe has been carried off to a lady's waiting room； and there remains in august wretchedness till the great man at the bar shall have decided on her fate。 I have never been quite able to fathom the mystery of these delays。 I think they must have originated in the necessity of waiting to see what might be the influx of travelers at the moment； and then have become exaggerated and brought to their present normal state by the gratified feeling of almost divine power with which for the time it invests that despotic arbiter。 I have found it always the same； though arriving with no crowd； by a conveyance of my own； when no other expectant guests were following me。 The great man has listened to my request in silence； with an imperturbable face； and has usually continued his conversation with some loafing friend； who at the time is probably scrutinizing my name in the book。 I have often suffered in patience； but patience is not specially the badge of my tribe； and I have sometimes spoken out rather freely。 If I may presume to give advice to my traveling countrymen how to act under such circumstances； I should recommend to them freedom of speech rather than patience。 The great man； when freely addressed； generally opens his eyes； and selects the key of your room without further delay。 I am inclined to think that the selection will not be made in any way to your detriment by reason of that freedom of speech。 The lady in the ballad who spoke out her own mind to Lord Bateman； was sent to her home honorably in a coach and three。 Had she held her tongue； we are justified in presuming that she would have been returned on a pillion behind a servant。 I have been greatly annoyed by that want of speech。 I have repeatedly asked for room； and received no syllable in return。 I have persisted in my request； and the clerk has nodded his head at me。 Until a traveler is known； these gentlemen are singularly sparing of speech； especially in the West。 The same economy of words runs down from the great man at the office all through the servants of the establishment。 It arises； I believe； entirely from that want of courtesy which democratic institutions create。 The man whom you address has to make a battle against the state of subservience presumed to be indicated by his position； and he does so by declaring his indifference to the person on whose wants he is paid to attend。 I have been honored on one or two occasions by the subsequent intimacy of these great men at the hotel offices； and have then found them ready enough at conversation。 That necessity of making your request for room before a public audience is not in itself agreeable； and sometimes entails a conversation which might be more comfortably made in private。 〃What do you mean by a dressing…room； and why do you want one？〃 Now that is a question which an Englishman feels awkward at answering before five and twenty Americans； with open mouths and eager eyes； but it has to be answered。 When I left England； I was assured that I should not find any need for a separate sitting…room； seeing that drawing…rooms more or less sumptuous were prepared for the accommodation of 〃ladies。〃 At first we attempted to follow the advice given to us； but we broke down。 A man and his wife traveling from town to town； and making no sojourn on his way； may eat and sleep at a hotel without a private parlor。 But an English woman cannot live in comfort for a week； or even in comfort for a day； at any of these houses； without a sitting…room for herself。 The ladies' drawing…room is a desolate wilderness。 The American women themselves do not use it。 It is generally empty； or occupied by some forlorn spinster； eliciting harsh sounds from the wretched piano which it contains。 The price at these hotels throughout the union is nearly always the same； viz。； two and a half dollars a day； for which a bed…room is given and as many meals as the guest can contrive to eat。 This is the price for chance guests。 The cost to monthly boarders is； I believe； not more than the half of this。 Ten shillings a day； therefore； covers everything that is absolutely necessary； servants included； and this must be said in praise of these innsthat the traveler can compute his expenses accurately； and can absolutely bring them within that daily sum of ten shillings。 This includes a great deal of eating； a great deal of attendance； the use of reading…room and smoking…roomwhich； however； always seem to be open to the public as well as to the guestsand a bed…room； with accommodation which is at any rate as good as the average accommodation of hotels in Europe。 In the large Eastern towns baths are attached to many of the rooms。 I always carry my own； and have never failed in getting water。 It must be acknowledged that the price is very cheap。 It is so cheap that I believe it affords； as a rule； no profit whatsoever。 The profit is made upon extra charges； and they are higher than in any other country that I have visited。 They are so high that I consider traveling in America； for an Englishman with his wife or family； to be more expensive than traveling in any part of Europe。 First in the list of extras comes that matter of the sitting…room； and by that for a man and his wife the whole first expense is at once doubled。 The ordinary charge is five dollars； or one pound a day！ A guest intending to stay for two or three weeks at a hotel； or perhaps for one week； may； by agreement； have this charge reduced。 At one inn I stayed a fortnight； and having made no such agreement； was charged the full sum。 I felt myself stirred up to complain； and did in that case remonstrate。 I was asked how much I wished to have returnedfor the
