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第8章

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ould put their faith in Seward and Cameron?  Cameron was now gone; it was true; and in that way the whole of the cabinet would soon be broken up。  As to Congress; what could Congress do?  Ask questions which no one would care to answer; and finally get itself packed up and sent home。〃  The President and the Constitution fared no better in men's mouths。  The former did nothingneither harm nor good; and as for the latter; it had broken down and shown itself to be inefficient。  So men ate; and drank; and laughed; waiting till chaos should come; secure in the belief that the atoms into which their world would resolve itself would connect themselves again in some other form without trouble on their part。 And at Washington I found no strong feeling against England and English conduct toward America。  〃We men of the world;〃 a Washington man might have said; 〃know very well that everybody must take care of himself first。  We are very good friends with youof course; and are very glad to see you at our table whenever you come across the water; but as for rejoicing at your joys; or expecting you to sympathize with our sorrows; we know the world too well for that。 We are splitting into pieces; and of course that is gain to you。 Take another cigar。〃  This polite; fashionable; and certainly comfortable way of looking at the matter had never been attained at New York or Philadelphia; at Boston or Chicago。  The Northern provincial world of the States had declared to itself that those who were not with it were against it; that its neighbors should be either friends or foes; that it would understand nothing of neutrality。  This was often mortifying to me; but I think I liked it better on the whole than the laisser…aller indifference of Washington。 Everybody acknowledged that society in Washington had been almost destroyed by the loss of the Southern half of the usual sojourners in the city。  The Senators and members of government; who heretofore had come front the Southern States; had no doubt spent more money in the capital than their Northern brethren。  They and their families had been more addicted to social pleasures。  They are the descendants of the old English Cavaliers; whereas the Northern men have come from the old English Roundheads。  Or if; as may be the case; the blood of the races has now been too well mixed to allow of this being said with absolute truth; yet something of the manners of the old forefathers has been left。  The Southern gentleman is more genial; less dryI will not say more hospitable; but more given to enjoy hospitality than his Northern brother; and this difference is quite as strong with the women as with the men。  It may therefore be understood that secession would be very fatal to the society of Washington。  It was not only that the members of Congress were not there。  As to very many of the Representatives; it may be said that they do not belong sufficiently to Washington to make a part of its society。  It is not every Representative that is; perhaps; qualified to do so。  But secession had taken away from Washington those who held property in the Southwho were bound to the South by any ties; whether political or other; who belonged to the South by blood; education; and old habits。  In very many casesnay; in most such casesit had been necessary that a man should select whether he would be a friend to the South; and therefore a rebel; or else an enemy to the South; and therefore untrue to all the predilections and sympathies of his life。  Here has been the hardship。  For such people there has been no neutrality possible。  Ladies even have not been able to profess themselves simply anxious for peace and good… will; and so to remain tranquil。  They who are not for me are against me; has been spoken by one side and by the other。  And I suppose that in all civil war it is necessary that it should be so。 I heard of various cases in which father and son had espoused different sides in order that property might be retained both in the North and in the South。  Under such circumstances it may be supposed that society in Washington would be considerably cut up。  All this made the place somewhat melancholy。

CHAPTER II。 CONGRESS。

In the interior of the Capitol much space is at present wasted; but this arises from the fact of great additions to the original plan having been made。  The two chambersthat of the Senate and the Representativesare in the two new wings; on the middle or what we call the first floor。  The entrance is made under a dome to a large circular hall; which is hung around with surely the worst pictures by which a nation ever sought to glorify its own deeds。  There are yards of paintings at Versailles which are bad enough; but there is nothing at Versailles comparable in villany to the huge daubs which are preserved in this hall at the Capitol。  It is strange that even self…laudatory patriotism should desire the perpetuation of such rubbish。  When I was there the new dome was still in progress; and an ugly column of wood…work; required for internal support and affording a staircase to the top; stood in this hall。  This of course was a temporary and necessary evil; but even this was hung around with the vilest of portraits。 From the hall; turning to the left; if the entrance be made at the front door; one goes to the new Chamber of Representatives; passing through that which was the old chamber。  This is now dedicated to the exposition of various new figures by Crawford; and to the sale of tarts and gingerbreadof very bad tarts and gingerbread。  Let that old woman look to it; or let the house dismiss her。  In fact; this chamber is now but a vestibule to a passagea second hall; as it were; and thus thrown away。  Changes probably will be made which will bring it into some use or some scheme of ornamentation。  From this a passage runs to the Representative Chamber; passing between those tell…tale windows; which; looking to the right and left; proclaim the tenuity of the building。  The windows on one sidethat looking to the east or frontshould; I think; be closed。  The appearance; both from the inside and from the outside; would be thus improved。 The Representative Chamber itselfwhich of course answers to our House of Commonsis a handsome; commodious room; admirably fitted for the purposes required。  It strikes one as rather low; but I doubt; if it were higher; whether it would be better adapted for hearing。  Even at present it is not perfect in this respect as regards the listeners in the gallery。  It is a handsome; long chamber; lighted by skylights from the roof; and is amply large enough for the number to be accommodated。  The Speaker sits opposite to the chief entrance; his desk being fixed against the opposite wall。  He is thus brought nearer to the body of the men before him than is the case with our Speaker。  He sits at a marble table; and the clerks below him are also accommodated with marble。  Every representative has his own arm…chair; and his own desk before it。 This may be done for a house consisting of about two hundred and forty members; but could hardly be contrived with us。  These desks are arranged in a semicircular form; or in a broad horseshoe; and every member as he sits faces the Speaker。  A score or so of little boys are always running about the floor ministering to the members' wishescarrying up petitions to the chair; bringing water to long… winded legislators; delivering and carrying out letters; and running with general messages。  They do not seem to interrupt the course of business; and yet they are the liveliest little boys I ever saw。 When a member claps his hands; indicating a desire for attendance; three or four will jockey for the honor。  On the whole; I thought the little boys had a good time of it。 But not so the Speaker。  It seemed to me that the amount of work falling upon the Speaker's shoulders was cruelly heavy。  His voice was always ringing in my ears exactly as does the voice of the croupier at a gambling…table; who goes on declaring and explaining the results of the game; and who generally does so in sharp; loud; ringing tones; from which all interest in the proceeding itself seems to be excluded。  It was just so with the Speaker in the House of Representatives。  The debate

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