north america-2-第4章
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feel some remorse in saying this； for I was myself treated with the utmost courtesy by gentlemen holding high positions in the office； to which I was specially attracted by my own connection with the post…office in England。 But I do not think that such courtesy should hinder me from telling what I saw that was bad； seeing that it would not hinder me from telling what I saw that was good。 In Washington there is but one post…office。 There are no iron pillars or wayside letter…boxes； as are to be found in other towns of the Unionno subsidiary offices at which stamps can be bought and letters posted。 The distances of the city are very great； the means of transit through the city very limited； the dirt of the city ways unrivaled in depth and tenacity； and yet there is but one post…office。 Nor is there any established system of letter…carriers。 To those who desire it letters are brought out and delivered by carriers； who charge a separate porterage for that service； but the rule is that letters should be delivered from the window。 For strangers this is of course a necessity of their position； and I found that； when once I had left instruction that my letters should be delivered； those instructions； were carefully followed。 Indeed； nothing could exceed the civility of the officials within； but so also nothing can exceed the barbarity of the arrangements without。 The purchase of stamps I found to be utterly impracticable。 They were sold at a window in a corner； at which newspapers were also delivered； to which there was no regular ingress and from which there was no egress； it would generally be deeply surrounded by a crowd of muddy soldiers； who would wait there patiently till time should enable them to approach the window。 The delivery of letters was almost more tedious； though in that there was a method。 The aspirants stood in a long line； en cue； as we are told by Carlyle that the bread…seekers used to approach the bakers' shops at Paris during the Revolution。 This 〃cue〃 would sometimes project out into the street。 The work inside was done very slowly。 The clerk had no facility； by use of a desk or otherwise； for running through the letters under the initials denominated； but turned letter by letter through his hand。 To one questioner out of ten would a letter be given。 It no doubt may be said in excuse for this that the presence of the army round Washington caused； at that period； special inconvenience； and that plea should of course be taken； were it not that a very trifling alteration in the management within would have remedied all the inconvenience。 As a building； the Washington Post…office is very good； as the center of a most complicated and difficult department； I believe it to be well managed； but as regards the special accommodation given by it to the city in which it stands； much cannot； I think； be said in its favor。 Opposite to that which is； I presume； the back of the Post…office； stands the Patent…office。 This also is a grand building； with a fine portico of Doric pillars at each of its three fronts。 These are approached by flights of steps； more gratifying to the eye than to the legs。 The whole structure is massive and grand； and； if the streets round it were finished； would be imposing。 The utilitarian spirit of the nation has； however； done much toward marring the appearance of the building； by piercing it with windows altogether unsuited to it； both in number and size。 The walls； even under the porticoes； have been so pierced； in order that the whole space might be utilized without loss of light； and the effect is very mean。 The windows are small； and without ornamentsomething like a London window of the time of George III。 The effect produced by a dozen such at the back of a noble Doric porch； looking down among the pillars； may be imagined。 In the interior of this building the Minister of the Interior holds his court； and； of course； also the Commissioners of Patents。 Here is； in accordance with the name of the building； a museum of models of all patents taken out。 I wandered through it； gazing with listless eye now upon this and now upon that； but to me； in my ignorance； it was no better than a large toy…shop。 When I saw an ancient； dusty white hat； with some peculiar appendage to it which was unintelligible； it was no more to me than any other old white hat。 But had I been a man of science； what a tale it might have told！ Wandering about through the Patent…office I also found a hospital for soldiers。 A British officer was with me who pronounced it to be； in its kind； very good。 At any rate it was sweet； airy； and large。 In these days the soldiers had got hold of everything。 The Treasury chambers is as yet an unfinished building。 The front to the south has been completed； but that to the north has not been built。 Here at the north stands as yet the old Secretary of State's office。 This is to come down； and the Secretary of State is to be located in the new building； which will be added to the Treasury。 This edifice will probably strike strangers more forcibly than any other in the town； both from its position and from its own character。 It Stands with its side to Pennsylvania Avenue； but the avenue here； has turned round； and runs due north and south； having taken a twist； so as to make way for the Treasury and for the President's house； through both of which it must run had it been carried straight on throughout。 These public offices stand with their side to the street； and the whole length is ornamented with an exterior row of Ionic columns raised high above the footway。 This is perhaps the prettiest thing in the city； and when the front to the north has been completed； the effect will be still better。 The granite monoliths which have been used； and which are to be used； in this building are very massive。 As one enters by the steps to the south there are two flat stones； one on each side of the ascent； the surface of each of which is about twenty feet by eighteen。 The columns are； I think； all monoliths。 Of those which are still to be erected； and which now lie about in the neighboring streets； I measured one or twoone which was still in the rough I found to be thirty…two feet long by five feet broad； and four and a half deep。 These granite blocks have been brought to Washington from the State of Maine。 The finished front of this building； looking down to the Potomac； is very good； but to my eyes this also has been much injured by the rows of windows which look out from the building into the space of the portico。 The President's houseor the White House as it is now called all the world overis a handsome mansion fitted for the chief officer of a great republic； and nothing more。 I think I may say that we have private houses in London considerably larger。 It is neat and pretty； and with all its immediate outside belongings calls down no adverse criticism。 It faces on to a small garden； which seems to be always accessible to the public； and opens out upon that everlasting Pennsylvania Avenue； which has now made another turn。 Here in front of the White House is President's Square； as it is generally called。 The technical name is； I believe； La Fayette Square。 The houses round it are few in numbernot exceeding three or four on each side； but they are among the best in Washington； and the whole place is neat and well kept。 President's Square is certainly the most attractive part of the city。 The garden of the square is always open； and does not seem to suffer from any public ill usage； by which circumstance I am again led to suggest that the gardens of our London squares might be thrown open in the same way。 In the center of this one at Washington； immediately facing the President's house； is an equestrian statue of General Jackson。 It is very bad； but that it is not nearly as bad as it might be is proved by another equestrian statueof General Washingtonerected in the center of a small garden plat at the end of Pennsylvania Avenue； near the bridge leading to Georgetown。 Of all the statues on horseback which I ever saw； either in marble or bronze； this is by far the worst and most ridiculous。 The horse is most absurd； but the man sitting on the horse is manifestly dru
