north america-2-第36章
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olid victories which they had gained since the contest began。 On the nineteenth of January； one wing of General Buell's army； under General Thomas； had defeated the secessionists near Somerset； in the southeastern district of Kentucky； under General Zollicoffer； who was there killed。 But in that action the attack was made by Zollicoffer and the secessionists。 When we were at Louisville we heard of the success of that gun…boat expedition up the Tennessee river by which Fort Henry was taken。 Fort Henry had been built by the Confederates on the Tennessee； exactly on the confines of the States of Tennessee and Kentucky。 They had also another fort； Fort Donelson； on the Cumberland River； which at that point runs parallel to the Tennessee； and is there distant from it but a very few miles。 Both these rivers run into the Ohio。 Nashville； which is the capital of Tennessee； is higher up on the Cumberland； and it was now intended to send the gun…boats down the Tennessee back into the Ohio； and thence up the Cumberland； there to attack Fort Donelson； and afterward to assist General Buell's army in making its way down to Nashville。 The gun…boats were attached to General Halleck's army； and received their directions from St。 Louis。 General Buell's headquarters were at Louisville； and his advanced position was on the Green River； on the line of the railway from Louisville to Nashville。 The secessionists had destroyed the railway bridge over the Green River； and were now lying at Bowling Green； between the Green River and Nashville。 This place it was understood that they had fortified。 Matters were in this position when we got a military pass to go down by the railway to the army on the Green River； for the railway was open to no one without a military pass； and we started； trusting that Providence would supply us with rations and quarters。 An officer attached to General Buell's staff； with whom however our acquaintance was of the very slightest； had telegraphed down to say that we were coming。 I cannot say that I expected much from the message； seeing that it simply amounted to a very thin introduction to a general officer to whom we were strangers even by name； from a gentleman to whom we had brought a note from another gentleman whose acquaintance we had chanced to pick up on the road。 We manifestly had no right to expect much； but to us； expecting very little； very much was given。 General Johnson was the officer to whose care we were confided； he being a brigadier under General McCook； who commanded the advance。 We were met by an aid…de…camp and saddle… horses； and soon found ourselves in the general's tent； or rather in a shanty formed of solid upright wooden logs； driven into the ground with the bark still on； and having the interstices filled in with clay。 This was roofed with canvas； and altogether made a very eligible military residence。 The general slept in a big box； about nine feet long and four broad； which occupied one end of the shanty； and he seemed in all his fixings to be as comfortably put up as any gentleman might be when out on such a picnic as this。 We arrived in time for dinner； which was brought in； table and all； by two negroes。 The party was made up by a doctor； who carved； and two of the staff； and a very nice dinner we had。 In half an hour we were intimate with the whole party； and as familiar with the things around us as though we had been living in tents all our lives。 Indeed； I had by this time been so often in the tents of the Northern army； that I almost felt entitled to make myself at home。 It has seemed to me that an Englishman has always been made welcome in these camps。 There has been and is at this moment a terribly bitter feeling among Americans against England； and I have heard this expressed quite as loudly by men in the army as by civilians； but I think I may say that this has never been brought to bear upon individual intercourse。 Certainly we have said some very sharp things of themwords which； whether true or false； whether deserved or undeserved； must have been offensive to them。 I have known this feeling of offense to amount almost to an agony of anger。 But nevertheless I have never seen any falling off in the hospitality and courtesy generally shown by a civilized people to passing visitors； I have argued the matter of England's course throughout the war； till I have been hoarse with asseverating the rectitude of her conduct and her national unselfishness。 I have met very strong opponents on the subject； and have been coerced into loud strains of voice； but I never yet met one American who was personally uncivil to me as an Englishman； or who seemed to be made personally angry by my remarks。 I found no coldness in that hospitality to which as a stranger I was entitled； because of the national ill feeling which circumstances have engendered。 And while on this subject I will remark that； when traveling； I have found it expedient to let those with whom I might chance to talk know at once that I was an Englishman。 In fault of such knowledge things would be said which could not but be disagreeable to me； but not even from any rough Western enthusiast in a railway carriage have I ever heard a word spoken insolently to England； after I had made my nationality known。 I have learned that Wellington was beaten at Waterloo； that Lord Palmerston was so unpopular that he could not walk alone in the streets； that the House of Commons was an acknowledged failure； that starvation was the normal condition of the British people； and that the queen was a blood…thirsty tyrant。 But these assertions were not made with the intention that they should be heard by an Englishman。 To us as a nation they are at the present moment unjust almost beyond belief； but I do not think that the feeling has ever taken the guise of personal discourtesy。 We spent two days in the camp close upon the Green River； and I do not know that I enjoyed any days of my trip more thoroughly than I did these。 In truth； for the last month since I had left Washington； my life had not been one of enjoyment。 I had been rolling in mud and had been damp with filth。 Camp Wood； as they called this military settlement on the Green River； was also muddy； but we were excellently well mounted； the weather was very cold； but peculiarly fine； and the soldiers around us； as far as we could judge； seemed to be better off in all respects than those we had visited at St。 Louis； at Rolla； or at Cairo。 They were all in tents； and seemed to be light…spirited and happy。 Their rations were excellent； but so much may； I think； be said of the whole Northern army； from Alexandria on the Potomac to Springfield in the west of Missouri。 There was very little illness at that time in the camp in Kentucky； and the reports made to us led us to think that on the whole this had been the most healthy division of the army。 The men； moreover； were less muddy than their brethren either east or west of themat any rate this may be said of them as regards the infantry。 But perhaps the greatest charm of the place to me was the beauty of the scenery。 The Green River at this spot is as picturesque a stream as I ever remember to have seen in such a country。 It lies low down between high banks； and curves hither and thither； never keeping a straight line。 Its banks are wooded； but not； as is so common in America； by continuous； stunted； uninteresting forest； but by large single trees standing on small patches of meadow by the water side； with the high banks rising over them； with glades through them open for the horseman。 The rides here in summer must be very lovely。 Even in winter they were so； and made me in love with the place in spite of that brown； dull； barren aspect which the presence of an army always creates。 I have said that the railway bridge which crossed the Green River at this spot had been destroyed by the secessionists。 This had been done effectually as regarded the passage of trains； but only in part as regarded the absolute fabric of the bridge。 It had been； and still was when I saw it； a beautifully light construction； made of iron and supported over a valley； rather than over a river； on tall stone piers。 One of these piers had been blow
