north america-2-第31章
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e carried with himover and above a chess…board and a set of chessmen； which sorely tempted me to accompany him in his march。 In my next chapter； which will； I trust； be very short； I purport to say a few words as to what I saw of the American army； and therefore I will not now describe the regiments which we visited。 The tents were all encompassed by snow； and the ground on which they stood was a bed of mud； but yet the soldiers out here were not so wretchedly forlorn； or apparently so miserably uncomfortable； as those at Benton Barracks。 I did not encounter that horrid sickly stench； nor were the men so pale and woe…begone。 On the following day we returned to St。 Louis； bringing back with us our friend the German aid…de…camp。 I stayed two days longer in that city； and then I thought that I had seen enough of Missouri； enough of Missouri at any rate under the present circumstances of frost and secession。 As regards the people of the West； I must say that they were not such as I expected to find them。 With the Northerns we are all more or less intimately acquainted。 Those Americans whom we meet in our own country； or on the continent； are generally from the North； or if not so they have that type of American manners which has become familiar to us。 They are talkative； intelligent； inclined to be social； though frequently not sympathetically social with ourselves； somewhat soi…disant； but almost invariably companionable。 As the traveler goes southward into Maryland and Washington； the type is not altered to any great extent。 The hard intelligence of the Yankee gives place gradually to the softer； and perhaps more polished； manner of the Southern。 But the change thus experienced is not great as is that between the American of the Western and the American of the Atlantic States。 In the West I found the men gloomy and silentI might almost say sullen。 A dozen of them will sit for hours round a stove； speechless。 They chew tobacco and ruminate。 They are not offended if you speak to them； but they are not pleased。 They answer with monosyllables； or； if it be practicable； with a gesture of the head。 They care nothing for the graces or shall I sayfor the decencies of life。 They are essentially a dirty people。 Dirt； untidiness； and noise seem in nowise to afflict them。 Things are constantly done before your eyes which should be done and might be done behind your back。 No doubt we daily come into the closest contact with matters which； if we saw all that appertains to them； would cause us to shake and shudder。 In other countries we do not see all this； but in the Western States we do。 I have eaten in Bedouin tents； and have been ministered to by Turks and Arabs。 I have sojourned in the hotels of old Spain and of Spanish America。 I have lived in Connaught； and have taken up my quarters with monks of different nations。 I have； as it were； been educated to dirt； and taken out my degree in outward abominations。 But my education had not reached a point which would enable me to live at my ease in the Western States。 A man or woman who can do that may be said to have graduated in the highest honors； and to have become absolutely invulnerable； either through the sense of touch； or by the eye； or by the nose。 Indifference to appearances is there a matter of pride。 A foul shirt is a flag of triumph。 A craving for soap and water is as the wail of the weak and the confession of cowardice。 This indifference is carried into all their affairs； or rather this manifestation of indifference。 A few pages back； I spoke of a man whose furniture had been sold to pay a heavy tax raised on him specially as a secessionist； the same man had also been refused the payment of rent due to him by the government； unless he would take a false oath。 I may presume that he was ruined in his circumstances by the strong hand of the Northern army。 But he seemed in no wise to be unhappy about his ruin。 He spoke with some scorn of the martial law in Missouri； but I felt that it was esteemed a small matter by him that his furniture was seized and sold。 No men love money with more eager love than these Western men； but they bear the loss of it as an Indian bears his torture at the stake。 They are energetic in trade； speculating deeply whenever speculation is possible； but nevertheless they are slow in motion； loving to loaf about。 They are slow in speech； preferring to sit in silence； with the tobacco between their teeth。 They drink； but are seldom drunk to the eye； they begin at it early in the morning； and take it in a solemn； sullen； ugly manner； standing always at a bar； swallowing their spirits； and saying nothing as they swallow it。 They drink often； and to great excess； but they carry it off without noise； sitting down and ruminating over it with the everlasting cud within their jaws。 I believe that a stranger might go into the West； and passing from hotel to hotel through a dozen of them； might sit for hours at each in the large everlasting public hall； and never have a word addressed to him。 No stranger should travel in the Western States； or indeed in any of the States； without letters of introduction。 It is the custom of the country； and they are easily procured。 Without them everything is barren； for men do not travel in the States of America as they do in Europe； to see scenery and visit the marvels of old cities which are open to all the world。 The social and political life of the American must constitute the interest of the traveler； and to these he can hardly make his way without introductions。 I cannot part with the West without saying； in its favor； that there is a certain manliness about its men which gives them a dignity of their own。 It is shown in that very indifference of which I have spoken。 Whatever turns up； the man is still there； still unsophisticated and still unbroken。 It has seemed to me that no race of men requires less outward assistance than these pioneers of civilization。 They rarely amuse themselves。 Food； newspapers； and brandy smashes suffice for life； and while these last； whatever may occur； the man is still there in his manhood。 The fury of the mob does not shake him； nor the stern countenance of his present martial tyrant。 Alas！ I cannot stick to my text by calling him a just man。 Intelligence； energy； and endurance are his virtues。 Dirt； dishonesty； and morning drinks are his vices。 All native American women are intelligent。 It seems to be their birthright。 In the Eastern cities they have； in their upper classes； superadded womanly grace to this intelligence； and consequently they are charming as companions。 They are beautiful also； and； as I believe； lack nothing that a lover can desire in his love。 But I cannot fancy myself much in love with a Western lady； or rather with a lady in the West。 They are as sharp as nails； but then they are also as hard。 They know； doubtless； all that they ought to know； but then they know so much more than they ought to know。 They are tyrants to their parents； and never practice the virtue of obedience till they have half…grownup daughters of their own。 They have faith in the destiny of their country； if in nothing else； but they believe that that destiny is to be worked out by the spirit and talent of the young women。 I confess that for me Eve would have had no charms had she not recognized Adam as her lord。 I can forgive her in that she tempted him to eat the apple。 Had she come from the West country； she would have ordered him to make his meal； and then I could not have forgiven her。 St。 Louis should be； and still will be； a town of great wealth。 To no city can have been given more means of riches。 I have spoken of the enormous mileage of water communication of which she is the center。 The country around her produces Indian…corn； wheat； grasses； hemp； and tobacco。 Coal is dug even within the boundaries of the city； and iron mines are worked at a distance from it of a hundred miles。 The iron is so pure that it is broken off in solid blocks； almost free from alloy； and as the metal stands up on the earth's surface in the guise almost of a gigantic metal pillar； instead of lying low within its bowels； it is worked at a cheap rate； and with great cer
