north america-2-第3章
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。 There is now in the Capitol a group apparently prepared for a pediment； which is by no means mean。 I was informed that they were intended for this position； but they； on the other band； are too good for such a place； and are also too numerous。 This set of statues is by Crawford。 Most of them are well known； and they are very fine。 They now stand within the old chamber of the Representative House； and the pity is that； if elevated to such a position as that indicated； they can never be really seen。 There are models of them all at West Point； and some of them I have seen at other places in marble。 The Historical Society； at New York； has one or two of them。 In and about the front of the Capitol there are other efforts of sculptureimposing in their size； and assuming； if not affecting； much in the attitudes chosen。 Statuary at Washington runs too much on two subjects； which are repeated perhaps almost ad nauseam： one is that of a stiff； steady…looking； healthy； but ugly individual； with a square jaw and big jowl； which represents the great general； he does not prepossess the beholder； because he appears to be thoroughly ill natured。 And the other represents a melancholy； weak figure without any hair； but often covered with feathers； and is intended to typify the red Indian。 The red Indian is generally supposed to be receiving comfort； but it is manifest that he never enjoys the comfort ministered to him。 There is a gigantic statue of Washington； by Greenough； out in the grounds in front of the building。 The figure is seated and holding up one of its arms toward the city。 There is about it a kind of weighty magnificence； but it is stiff； ungainly； and altogether without life。 But the front of the original building is certainly grand。 The architect who designed it must have had skill； taste； and nobility of conception； but even this is spoiled； or rather wasted； by the fact that the front is made to look upon nothing； and is turned from the city。 It is as though； the facade of the London Post…office had been made to face the Goldsmiths' Hall。 The Capitol stands upon the side of a hill； the front occupying a much higher position than the back； consequently they who enter it from the backand everybody does so enter itare first called on to rise to the level of the lower floor by a stiff ascent of exterior steps； which are in no way grand or imposing； and then； having entered by a mean back door； are instantly obliged to ascend again by another flightby stairs sufficiently appropriate to a back entrance； but altogether unfitted for the chief approach to such a building。 It may； of course； be said that persons who are particular in such matters should go in at the front door and not at the back； but one must take these things as one finds them。 The entrance by which the Capitol is approached is such as I have described。 There are mean little brick chimneys at the left hand as one walks in； attached to modern bakeries； which have been constructed in the basement for the use of the soldiers； and there is on the other hand the road by which wagons find their way to the underground region with fuel； stationery； and other matters desired by Senators and Representatives； and at present by bakers also。 In speaking of the front I have spoken of it as it was originally designed and built。 Since that period very heavy wings have been added to the pilewings so heavy that they are or seem to be much larger than the original structure itself。 This； to my thinking； has destroyed the symmetry of the whole。 The wings； which in themselves are by no means devoid of beauty； are joined to the center by passages so narrow that from exterior points of view the light can be seen through them。 This robs the mass of all oneness； of all entirety as a whole； and gives a scattered； straggling appearance； where there should be a look of massiveness and integrity。 The dome also has been raiseda double drum having been given to it。 This is unfinished； and should not therefore yet be judged； but I cannot think that the increased height will be an improvement。 This； again； to my eyes； appears to be straggling rather than massive。 At a distance it commands attention； and to one journeying through the desert places of the city gives that idea of Palmyra which I have before mentioned。 Nevertheless； and in spite of all that I have said； I have had pleasure in walking backward and forward； and through the grounds which lie before the eastern front of the Capitol。 The space for the view is ample； and the thing to be seen has points which are very grand。 If the Capitol were finished and all Washington were built around it； no man would say that the house in which Congress sat disgraced the city。 Going west； but not due west； from the Capitol； Pennsylvania Avenue stretches in a right line to the Treasury chambers。 The distance is beyond a mile； and men say scornfully that the two buildings have been put so far apart in order to save the secretaries who sit in the bureaus from a too rapid influx of members of Congress。 This statement I by no means indorse； but it is undoubtedly the fact that both Senators and Representatives are very diligent in their calls upon gentlemen high in office。 I have been present on some such occasions； and it has always seemed to me a that questions of patronage have been paramount。 This reach of Pennsylvania Avenue is the quarter for the best shops of Washingtonthat is to say； the frequented side of it is so； that side which is on your right as you leave the Capitol。 Of the other side the world knows nothing。 And very bad shops they are。 I doubt whether there be any town in the world at all equal in importance to Washington which is in such respects so ill provided。 The shops are bad and dear。 In saying this I am guided by the opinions of all whom I heard speak on the subject。 The same thing was told me of the hotels。 Hearing that the city was very full at the time of my visitfull to overflowing I had obtained private rooms； through a friend； before I went there。 Had I not done so； I might have lain in the streets； or have made one with three or four others in a small room at some third… rate inn。 There had never been so great a throng in the town。 I am bound to say that my friend did well for me。 I found myself put up at the house of one Wormley； a colored man； in I Street； to whose attention I can recommend any Englishman who may chance to want quarters in Washington。 He has a hotel on one side of the street and private lodging…houses on the other； in which I found myself located。 From what I heard of the hotels； I conceived myself to be greatly in luck。 Willard's is the chief of these； and the everlasting crowd and throng of men with which the halls and passages of the house were always full certainly did not seem to promise either privacy or comfort。 But then there are places in which privacy and comfort are not expectedare hardly even desired and Washington is one of them。 The Post…office and the Patent…office； lie a little away from Pennsylvania Avenue in I Street； and are opposite to each other。 The Post…office is certainly a very graceful building。 It is square； and hardly can be said to have any settled front or any grand entrance。 It is not approached by steps； but stands flush on the ground； alike on each of the four sides。 It is ornamented with Corinthian pilasters； but is not over…ornamented。 It is certainly a structure creditable to any city。 The streets around it are all unfinished； and it is approached through seas of mud and sloughs of despond； which have been contrived； as I imagine； to lessen； if possible； the crowd of callers； and lighten in this way the overtasked officials within。 That side by which the public in general were supposed to approach was； during my sojourn； always guarded by vast mountains of flour barrels。 Looking up at the windows of the building； I perceived also that barrels were piled within； and then I knew that the Post…office had become a provision depot for the army。 The official arrangements here for the public were so bad as to be absolutely barbarous。 I feel some remorse in saying this； for I was myself treated with the utmost courtesy by gentlemen ho
