north america-2-第21章
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n some degree； in his personal appearance。 There is no good reason； perhaps； why they should have cleaner shirts than their outside brethren； or have been more particular in the use of soap and water； and brush and comb。 But I have an idea that if ever our own Parliament becomes dirty； it will lose its prestige； and I cannot but think that the Parliament of Pennsylvania would gain an accession of dignity by some slightly increased devotion to the Graces。 I saw in the two Houses but one gentleman （a Senator） who looked like a Quaker； but even he was a very untidy Quaker。 I paid my respects to the Governor； and found him briskly employed in arranging the appointments of officers。 All the regimental appointments to the volunteer regimentsand that is practically to the whole body of the army*are made by the State in which the regiments are mustered。 When the affair commenced； the captains and lieutenants were chosen by the men； but it was found that this would not do。 When the skeleton of a State militia only was required； such an arrangement was popular and not essentially injurious； but now that war had become a reality； and that volunteers were required to obey discipline； some other mode of promotion was found necessary。 As far as I could understand； the appointments were in the hands of the State Governor； who however was expected； in the selection of the superior officers； to be guided by the expressed wishes of the regiment； when no objection existed to such a choice。 In the present instance the Governor's course was very thorny。 Certain unfinished regiments were in the act of being amalgamated two perfect regiments being made up from perhaps five imperfect regiments； and so on。 But though the privates had not been forthcoming to the full number for each expected regiment； there had been no such dearth of officers； and consequently the present operation consisted in reducing their number。
* The army at this time consisted nominally of 660；000 men； of whom only 20；000 were regulars。
Nothing can be much uglier than the State House at Harrisburg； but it commands a magnificent view of one of the valleys into which the Alleghany Mountains is broken。 Harrisburg is immediately under the range； probably at its finest point； and the railway running west from the town to Pittsburg； Cincinnati； and Chicago； passes right over the chain。 The line has been magnificently engineered； and the scenery is very grand。 I went over the Alleghanies in midwinter； when they were covered with snow； but even when so seen they were very fine。 The view down the valley from Altoona； a point near the summit； must in summer be excessively lovely。 I stopped at Altoona one night； with the object of getting about among the hills and making the best of the winter view but I found it impossible to walk。 The snow had become frozen and was like glass。 I could not progress a mile in any way。 With infinite labor I climbed to the top of one little hill； and when there became aware that the descent would be very much more difficult。 I did get down； but should not choose to describe the manner in which I accomplished the descent。 In running down the mountains to Pittsburg an accident occurred which in any other country would have thrown the engine off the line； and have reduced the carriages behind the engine to a heap of ruins。 But here it had no other effect than that of delaying us for three or four hours。 The tire of one of the heavy driving wheels flew off； and in the shock the body of the wheel itself was broken； one spoke and a portion of the circumference of the wheel was carried away； and the steam…chamber was ripped open。 Nevertheless the train was pulled up； neither the engine nor any of the carriages got off the line； and the men in charge of the train seemed to think very lightly of the matter。 I was amused to see how little was made of the affair by any of the passengers。 In England a delay of three hours would in itself produce a great amount of grumbling； or at least many signs of discomfort and temporary unhappiness。 But here no one said a word。 Some of the younger men got out and looked at the ruined wheel； but the most of the passengers kept their seats； chewed their tobacco； and went to sleep。 In all such matters an American is much more patient than an Englishman。 To sit quiet； without speech； and ruminate in some contorted position of body comes to him by nature。 On this occasion I did not hear a word of complaintnor yet a word of surprise or thankfulness that the accident had been attended with no serious result。 〃I have got a furlough for ten days；〃 one soldier said to me； 〃and I have missed every connection all through from Washington here。 I shall have just time to turn round and go back when I get home。〃 But he did not seem to be in any way dissatisfied。 He had not referred to his relatives when he spoke of 〃missing his connections；〃 but to his want of good fortune as regarded railway traveling。 He had reached Baltimore too late for the train on to Harrisburg； and Harrisburg too late for the train on to Pittsburg。 Now he must again reach Pittsburg too late for his further journey。 But nevertheless he seemed to be well pleased with his position。 Pittsburg is the Merthyr…Tydvil of Pennsylvaniaor perhaps I should better describe it as an amalgamation of Swansea； Merthyr…Tydvil； and South Shields。 It is； without exception； the blackest place which I ever saw。 The three English towns which I have named are very dirty； but all their combined soot and grease and dinginess do not equal that of Pittsburg。 As regards scenery it is beautifully situated； being at the foot of the Alleghany Mountains； and at the juncture of the two rivers Monongahela and Alleghany。 Here； at the town； they come together； and form the River Ohio。 Nothing can be more picturesque than the site； for the spurs of the mountains come down close round the town； and the rivers are broad and swift； and can be seen for miles from heights which may be reached in a short walk。 Even the filth and wondrous blackness of the place are picturesque when looked down upon from above。 The tops of the churches are visible； and some of the larger buildings may be partially traced through the thick； brown； settled smoke。 But the city itself is buried in a dense cloud。 The atmosphere was especially heavy when I was there； and the effect was probably increased by the general darkness of the weather。 The Monongahela is crossed by a fine bridge； and on the other side the ground rises at once； almost with the rapidity of a precipice； so that a commanding view is obtained down upon the town and the two rivers and the different bridges； from a height immediately above them。 I was never more in love with smoke and dirt than when I stood here and watched the darkness of night close in upon the floating soot which hovered over the house…tops of the city。 I cannot say that I saw the sun set； for there was no sun。 I should say that the sun never shone at Pittsburg； as foreigners who visit London in November declare that the sun never shines there。 Walking along the river side I counted thirty…two steamers； all beached upon the shore； with their bows toward the landlarge boats； capable probably of carrying from one to two hundred passengers each； and about three hundred tons of merchandise。 On inquiry I found that many of these were not now at work。 They were resting idle； the trade down the Mississippi below St。 Louis having been cut off by the war。 Many of them； however； were still running； the passage down the river being open to Wheeling in Virginia； to Portsmouth； Cincinnati； and the whole of South Ohio； to Louisville in Kentucky； and to Cairo in Illinois； where the Ohio joins the Mississippi。 The amount of traffic carried on by these boats while the country was at peace within itself was very great； and conclusive as to the increasing prosperity of the people。 It seems that everybody travels in America； and that nothing is thought of distance。 A young man will step into a car and sit beside you； with that easy careless air which is common to a railway passenger in England who is passing from one station to the next； and on conversing with him you will fi
