the soul of the far east(远东的灵魂)-第21章
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vain； in his civilization； for explanations of even the most simple of
nature's laws； you will meet at every turn with devices for the beautifying
of life； which may stand not unworthily beside the products of nature's
own skill。 Whatever these people fashion； from the toy of an hour to the
triumphs of all time； is touched by a taste unknown elsewhere。 To stroll
down the Broadway of Tokio of an evening is a liberal education in
everyday art。 As you enter it there opens out in front of you a fairy…like
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vista of illumination。 Two long lines of gayly lighted shops； stretching off
into the distance； look out across two equally endless rows of torch…lit
booths； the decorous yellow gleam of the one contrasting strangely with
the demoniacal red flare of the other。 This perspective of pleasure fulfils
its promise。 As your feet follow your eyes you find yourself in a
veritable shoppers' paradise； the galaxy of twinkle resolving into worlds of
delight。 Nor do you long remain a mere spectator； for the shops open
their arms to you。 No cold glass reveals their charms only to shut you off。
Their wares lie invitingly exposed to the public； seeming to you already
half your own。 At the very first you come to you stop involuntarily； lost
in admiration over what you take to be bric…a…brac。 It is only afterwards
you learn that the object of your ecstasy was the commonest of kitchen
crockery。 Next door you halt again； this time in front of some leathern
pocket…books； stamped with designs in color to tempt you instantly to
empty your wallet for more new ones than you will ever have the means to
fill。 If you do succeed in tearing yourself away purse…whole； it is only to
fall a victim to some painted fans of so exquisite a make and decoration
that escape short of possession is impossible。 Opposed as stubbornly as
you may be to idle purchase at home； here you will find yourself the prey
of an acute case of shopping fever before you know it。 Nor will it be
much consolation subsequently to discover that you have squandered your
patrimony upon the most ordinary articles of every…day use。 If in despair
you turn for refuge to the booths； you will but have delivered yourself into
the embrace of still more irresistible fascinations。 For the nocturnal
squatters are there for the express purpose of catching the susceptible。
The shops were modestly attractive from their nature； but the booths
deliberately make eyes at you； and with telling effect。 The very
atmosphere is bewitching。 The lurid smurkiness of the torches lends an
appropriate weirdness to the figure of the uncouthly clad pedlar who； with
the politeness of the arch…fiend himself； displays to an eager group the
fatal fascinations of some new conceit。 Here the latest thing in
inventions； a gutta…percha rat； which； for reasons best known to the vender；
scampers about squeaking with a mimicry to shame the original； holds an
admiring crowd spellbound with mingled trepidation and delight。 There
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a native zoetrope； indefatigable round of pleasure； whose top fashioned
after the type of a turbine wheel enables a candle at the centre ingeniously
to supply both illumination and motive power at the same time； affords to
as many as can find room on its circumference a peep at the composite
antics of a consecutively pictured monkey in the act of jumping a box。
Beyond this 〃wheel of life〃 lies spread out on a mat a most happy family
of curios； the whole of which you are quite prepared to purchase en bloc。
While a little farther on stands a flower show which seems to be coyly
beckoning to you as the blossoms nod their heads to an imperceptible
breeze。 So one attraction fairly jostles its neighbor for recognition from
the gay thousands that like yourself stroll past in holiday delight。
Chattering children in brilliant colors； voluble women and talkative men in
quieter but no less picturesque costumes； stream on in kaleidoscopic
continuity。 And you； carried along by the current； wander thus for miles
with the tide of pleasure…seekers； till； late at night； when at last you turn
reluctantly homeward； you feel as one does when wakened from some too
delightful dream。
Or instead of night； suppose it day and the place a temple。 With
those who are entering you enter too through the outer gateway into the
courtyard。 At the farther end rises a building the like of which for
richness of effect you have probably never beheld or even imagined。 In
front of you a flight of white stone steps leads up to a terrace whose
parapet； also of stone； is diapered for half its height and open latticework
the rest。 This piazza gives entrance to a building or set of buildings
whose every detail challenges the eye。 Twelve pillars of snow…white wood
sheathed in part with bronze； arranged in four rows； make； as it were； the
bones of the structure。 The space between the centre columns lies open。
The other triplets are webbed in the middle and connected； on the sides
and front； by grilles of wood and bronze forming on the outside a couple
of embrasures on either hand the entrance in which stand the guardian Nio；
two colossal demons； Gog and Magog。 Instead of capitals ；a frieze
bristling with Chinese lions protects the top of the pillars。 Above this in
place of entablature rises tier upon tier of decoration； each tier projecting
beyond the one beneath； and the topmost of all terminating in a balcony
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which encircles the whole second story。 The parapet of this balcony is
one mass of ornament； and its cornice another row of lions； brown instead
of white。 The second story is no less crowded with carving。 Twelve
pillars make its ribs； the spaces between being filled with elaborate
woodwork； while on top rest more friezes； more cornices； clustered with
excrescences of all colors and kinds； and guarded by lions innumerable。
To begin to tell the details of so multi…faceted a gem were artistically
impossible。 It is a jewel of a thousand rays； yet whose beauties blend into
one as the prismatic tints combine to white。 And then； after the first
dazzle of admiration； when the spirit of curiosity urges you to penetrate
the centre aisle； lo and behold it is but a gate！ The dupe of unexpected
splendor； you have been paying court to the means of approach。 It is
only a portal after all。 For as you pass through； you catch a glimpse of a
building beyond more gorgeous still。 Like in general to the first； unlike it
in detail； r
