part03-第1章
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Inhabitants of the Alhambra。
I HAVE often observed that the more proudly a mansion has been
tenanted in the day of its prosperity; the humbler are its inhabitants
in the day of its decline; and that the palace of a king commonly ends
in being the nestling…place of the beggar。
The Alhambra is in a rapid state of similar transition。 Whenever a
tower falls to decay; it is seized upon by some tatterdemalion family;
who become joint…tenants; with the bats and owls; of its gilded halls;
and hang their rags; those standards of poverty; out of its windows
and loopholes。
I have amused myself with remarking some of the motley characters
that have thus usurped the ancient abode of royalty; and who seem as
if placed here to give a farcical termination to the drama of human
pride。 One of these even bears the mockery of a regal title。 It is a
little old woman named Maria Antonia Sabonea; but who goes by the
appellation of la Reyna Coquina; or the Cockle…queen。 She is small
enough to be a fairy; and a fairy she may be for aught I can find out;
for no one seems to know her origin。 Her habitation is in a kind of
closet under the outer staircase of the palace; and she sits in the
cool stone corridor; plying her needle and singing from morning till
night; with a ready joke for every one that passes; for though one
of the poorest; she is one of the merriest little women breathing。 Her
great merit is a gift for story…telling; having; I verily believe;
as many stories at her command; as the inexhaustible Scheherezade of
the thousand and one nights。 Some of these I have heard her relate
in the evening tertulias of Dame Antonia; at which she is occasionally
a humble attendant。
That there must be some fairy gift about this mysterious little
old woman; would appear from her extraordinary luck; since;
notwithstanding her being very little; very ugly; and very poor; she
has had; according to her own account; five husbands and a half;
reckoning as a half one a young dragoon; who died during courtship。
A rival personage to this little fairy queen is a portly old fellow
with a bottle…nose; who goes about in a rusty garb with a cocked hat
of oil…skin and a red cockade。 He is one of the legitimate sons of the
Alhambra; and has lived here all his life; filling various offices;
such as deputy alguazil; sexton of the parochial church; and marker of
a fives…court established at the foot of one of the towers。 He is as
poor as a rat; but as proud as he is ragged; boasting of his descent
from the illustrious house of Aguilar; from which sprang Gonzalvo of
Cordova; the grand captain。 Nay; he actually bears the name of
Alonzo de Aguilar; so renowned in the history of the conquest;
though the graceless wags of the fortress have given him the title
of el padre santo; or the holy father; the usual appellation of the
Pope; which I had thought too sacred in the eyes of true Catholics
to be thus ludicrously applied。 It is a whimsical caprice of fortune
to present; in the grotesque person of this tatterdemalion; a namesake
and descendant of the proud Alonzo de Aguilar; the mirror of
Andalusian chivalry; leading an almost mendicant existence about
this once haughty fortress; which his ancestor aided to reduce; yet;
such might have been the lot of the descendants of Agamemnon and
Achilles; had they lingered about the ruins of Troy!
Of this motley community; I find the family of my gossiping
squire; Mateo Ximenes; to form; from their numbers at least; a very
important part。 His boast of being a son of the Alhambra; is not
unfounded。 His family has inhabited the fortress ever since the time
of the conquest; handing down an hereditary poverty from father to
son; not one of them having ever been known to be worth a maravedi。
His father; by trade a ribbon…weaver; and who succeeded the historical
tailor as the head of the family; is now near seventy years of age;
and lives in a hovel of reeds and plaster; built by his own hands;
just above the iron gate。 The furniture consists of a crazy bed; a
table; and two or three chairs; a wooden chest; containing; besides
his scanty clothing; the 〃archives of the family。〃 These are nothing
more nor less than the papers of various lawsuits sustained by
different generations; by which it would seem that; with all their
apparent carelessness and good humor; they are a litigious brood。 Most
of the suits have been brought against gossiping neighbors for
questioning the purity of their blood; and denying their being
Cristianos viejos; i。 e。 old Christians; without Jewish or Moorish
taint。 In fact; I doubt whether this jealousy about their blood has
not kept them so poor in purse: spending all their earnings on
escribanos and alguazils。 The pride of the hovel is an escutcheon
suspended against the wall; in which are emblazoned quarterings of the
arms of the Marquis of Caiesedo; and of various other noble houses;
with which this poverty…stricken brood claim affinity。
As to Mateo himself; who is now about thirty…five years of age; he
has done his utmost to perpetuate his line and continue the poverty of
the family; having a wife and a numerous progeny; who inhabit an
almost dismantled hovel in the hamlet。 How they manage to subsist;
he only who sees into all mysteries can tell; the subsistence of a
Spanish family of the kind; is always a riddle to me; yet they do
subsist; and what is more; appear to enjoy their existence。 The wife
takes her holiday stroll on the Paseo of Granada; with a child in
her arms and half a dozen at her heels; and the eldest daughter; now
verging into womanhood; dresses her hair with flowers; and dances
gayly to the castanets。
There are two classes of people to whom life seems one long holiday;
the very rich; and the very poor; one because they need do nothing;
the other because they have nothing to do; but there are none who
understand the art of doing nothing and living upon nothing; better
than the poor classes of Spain。 Climate does one half; and temperament
the rest。 Give a Spaniard the shade in summer; and the sun in
winter; a little bread; garlic; oil; and garbances; an old brown cloak
and a guitar; and let the world roll on as it pleases。 Talk of
poverty! with him it has no disgrace。 It sits upon him with a
grandiose style; like his ragged cloak。 He is a hidalgo; even when
in rags。
The 〃sons of the Alhambra〃 are an eminent illustration of this
practical philosophy。 As the Moors imagined that the celestial
paradise hung over this favored spot; so I am inclined at times to
fancy; that a gleam of the golden age still lingers about this
ragged community。 They possess nothing; they do nothing; they care for
nothing。 Yet; though apparently idle all the week; they are as
observant of all holy days and saints' days as the most laborious
artisan。 They attend all fetes and dancings in Granada and its
vicinity; light bonfires on the hills on St。 John's eve; and dance
away the moonlight nights on the harvest…home of a small field
within the precincts of the fortress; which yields a few bushels of
wheat。
Before concluding these remarks; I must mention one of the
amusements of the place which has particularly struck me。 I had
repeatedly observed a long lean fellow perched on the top of one of
the towers; manoeuvring two or three fishing…rods; as though he were
angling for the stars。 I was for some time perplexed by the evolutions
of this aerial fisherman; and my perplexity increased on observing
others employed in like manner on different parts of the battlements
and bastions; it was not until I consulted Mateo Ximenes; that I
solved the mystery。
It seems that the pure and airy situation of this fortress has
rendered it; like the castle of Macbeth; a prolific breeding…place for
swallows and martlets; who sport about its towers in myriads; with the
holiday glee of urchins just let loose from school。 To entrap these
birds in their gi