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serving as a foil。  But she must be excellent in all games; from 

golf to piquet; and willing to play as often and as long as 

required。  She must also cheerfully go in to dinner with the blue 

ribbon bore of the evening; only asked on account of his pretty 

wife (by the bye; why is it that Beauty is so often flanked by the 

Beast?); and sit between him and the 〃second prize〃 bore。  These 

two worthies would have been the portion of the hostess fifteen 

years ago; she would have considered it her duty to absorb them and 

prevent her other guests suffering。  MAIS NOUS AVONS CHANGE TOUT 

CELA。  The lady of the house now thinks first of amusing herself; 

and arranges to sit between two favorites。



Society has become much simpler; and especially less expensive; for 

unmarried men than it used to be。  Even if a hostess asks a favor 

in return for weeks of hospitality; the sacrifice she requires of a 

man is rarely greater than a cotillion with an unattractive 

debutante whom she is trying to launch; or the sitting through a 

particularly dull opera in order to see her to the carriage; her 

lord and master having slipped off early to his club and a quiet 

game of pool。  Many people who read these lines are old enough to 

remember that prehistoric period when unmarried girls went to the 

theatre and parties; alone with the men they knew。  This custom 

still prevails in our irrepressible West。  It was an arrangement by 

which all the expenses fell on the man … theatre tickets; carriages 

if it rained; and often a bit of supper after。  If a youth asked a 

girl to dance the cotillion; he was expected to send a bouquet; 

sure to cost between twenty and twenty…five dollars。  What a 

blessed change for the impecunious swell when all this went out of 

fashion!  New York is his paradise now; in other parts of the world 

something is still expected of him。  In France it takes the form of 

a handsome bag of bon…bons on New Year's Day; if he has accepted 

hospitality during the past year。  While here he need do absolutely 

nothing (unless he wishes to); the occasional leaving of a card 

having been suppressed of late by our JEUNESSE DOREE; five minutes 

of their society in an opera box being estimated (by them) as ample 

return for a dinner or a week in a country house。



The truth of it is; there are so few men who 〃go out〃 (it being 

practically impossible for any one working at a serious profession 

to sit up night after night; even if he desired); and at the same 

time so many women insist on entertaining to amuse themselves or 

better their position; that the men who go about get spoiled and 

almost come to consider the obligation conferred; when they dine 

out。  There is no more amusing sight than poor paterfamilias 

sitting in the club between six and seven P。M。 pretending to read 

the evening paper; but really with his eve on the door; he has been 

sent down by his wife to 〃get a man;〃 as she is one short for her 

dinner this evening。  He must be one who will fit in well with the 

other guests; hence papa's anxious look; and the reason the 

editorial gets so little of his attention!  Watch him as young 

〃professional〃 lounges in。  There is just his man … if he only 

happens to be disengaged!  You will see 〃Pater〃 cross the room and 

shake hands; then; after a few minutes' whispered conversation; he 

will walk down to his coupe with such a relieved look on his face。  

Young 〃professional;〃 who is in faultless evening dress; will ring 

for a cocktail and take up the discarded evening paper to pass the 

time till eight twenty…five。



Eight twenty…five; advisedly; for he will be the last to arrive; 

knowing; clever dog; how much eCLAT it gives one to have a room 

full of people asking each other; 〃Whom are we waiting for?〃 when 

the door opens; and he is announced。  He will stay a moment after 

the other guests have gone and receive the most cordial pressures 

of the hand from a grateful hostess (if not spoken words of thanks) 

in return for eating an exquisitely cooked dinner; seated between 

two agreeable women; drinking irreproachable wine; smoking a cigar; 

and washing the whole down with a glass of 1830 brandy; or some 

priceless historic madeira。



There is probably a moral to be extracted from all this。  But 

frankly my ethics are so mixed that I fail to see where the blame 

lies; and which is the less worthy individual; the ostentatious 

axe…grinding host or the interested guest。  One thing; however; I 

see clearly; viz。; that life is very agreeable to him who starts in 

with few prejudices; good manners; a large amount of well…concealed 

〃cheek〃 and the happy faculty of taking things as they come。









CHAPTER 36 … American Society in Italy





THE phrase at the head of this chapter and other sentences; such as 

〃American Society in Paris;〃 or London; are constantly on the lips 

of people who should know better。  In reality these societies do 

not exist。  Does my reader pause; wondering if he can believe his 

eyes?  He has doubtless heard all his life of these delightful 

circles; and believes in them。  He may even have dined; EN PASSANT; 

at the 〃palace〃 of some resident compatriot in Rome or Florence; 

under the impression that he was within its mystic limits。  

Illusion!  An effect of mirage; making that which appears quite 

tangible and solid when viewed from a distance dissolve into thin 

air as one approaches; like the mirage; cheating the weary 

traveller with a vision of what he most longs for。



Forty; even fifty years ago; there lived in Rome a group of very 

agreeable people; Story and the two Greenoughs and Crawford; the 

sculptor (father of the brilliant novelist of today); Charlotte 

Cushman (who divided her time between Rome and Newport); and her 

friend Miss Stebbins; the sculptress; to whose hands we owe the 

bronze fountain on the Mall in our Park; Rogers; then working at 

the bronze doors of our capitol; and many other cultivated and 

agreeable people。  Hawthorne passed a couple of winters among them; 

and the tone of that society is reflected in his 〃Marble Faun。〃  He 

took Story as a model for his 〃Kenyon;〃 and was the first to note 

the exotic grace of an American girl in that strange setting。  They 

formed as transcendental and unworldly a group as ever gathered 

about a 〃tea〃 table。  Great things were expected of them and their 

influence; but they disappointed the world; and; with the exception 

of Hawthorne; are being fast forgotten。



Nothing could be simpler than life in the papal capital in those 

pleasant days。  Money was rare; but living as delightfully 

inexpensive。  It was about that time; if I do not mistake; that a 

list was published in New York of the citizens worth one hundred 

thousand dollars; and it was not a long one!  The Roman colony took 

〃tea〃 informally with each other; and 〃received〃 on stated evenings 

in their studios (when mulled claret and cakes were the only 

refreshment offered; very bad they were; too); and migrated in the 

summer to the mountains near Rome or to Sorrento。  In the winter 

months their circle was enlarged by a contingent from home。  Among 

wealthy New Yorkers; it was the fashion in the early fifties to 

pass a winter in Rome; when; together with his other dissipations; 

paterfamilias would sit to one of the American sculptors for his 

bust; which accounts for the horrors one now runs across in dark 

corners of country houses; … ghostly heads in 〃chin whiskers〃 and 

Roman draperies。



The son of one of these pioneers; more rich than cultivated; 

noticed the other day; while visiting a friend of mine; an 

exquisite eighteenth…century bust of Madame de Pompadour; the pride 

of his hostess's drawing…room。  〃Ah!〃 said Midas; 〃are busts the 

fashion again?  I have one of my father; done in Rome in 1850。  I 

will bring it down and put it in my parlor。〃



The travellers consulted the r

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