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worldly ways and byways-第21章

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crowned heads to get a taste of the fun; that beyond drawing their 

salaries; these good people have absolutely nothing to do; except 

to amuse themselves; it is no wonder that this happy land is 

crowded with royal pleasure…seekers。



After a try at Florence and Aix; 〃the Queen〃 has been faithful to 

Cimiez; a charming site back of Nice。  That gay city is always EN 

FETE the day she arrives; as her carriages pass surrounded by 

French cavalry; one can catch a glimpse of her big face; and dowdy 

little figure; which nevertheless she can make so dignified when 

occasion requires。  The stay here is; indeed; a holiday for this 

record…breaking sovereign; who potters about her private grounds of 

a morning in a donkey…chair; sunning herself and watching her 

Battenberg grandchildren at play。  In the afternoon; she drives a 

couple of hours … in an open carriage … one outrider in black 

livery alone distinguishing her turnout from the others。



The Prince of Wales makes his headquarters at Cannes where he has 

poor luck in sailing the Brittania; for which he consoles himself 

with jolly dinners at Monte Carlo。  You can see him almost any 

evening in the RESTAURANT DE PARIS; surrounded by his own 

particular set; … the Duchess of Devonshire (who started a 

penniless German officer's daughter; and became twice a duchess); 

Lady de Grey and Lady Wolverton; both showing near six feet of 

slender English beauty; at their side; and lovelier than either; 

the Countess of Essex。  The husbands of these 〃Merry Wives〃 are 

absent; but do not seem to be missed; as the ladies sit smoking and 

laughing over their coffee; the party only breaking up towards 

eleven o'clock to try its luck at TRENTE ET QUARANTE; until a 

〃special〃 takes them back to Cannes。



He is getting sadly old and fat; is England's heir; the likeness to 

his mamma becoming more marked each year。  His voice; too; is oddly 

like hers; deep and guttural; more adapted to the paternal German 

(which all this family speak when alone) than to his native 

English。  Hair; he has none; except a little fringe across the back 

of his head; just above a fine large roll of fat that blushes above 

his shirt…collar。  Too bad that this discovery of the microbe of 

baldness comes rather late for him!  He has a pleasant twinkle in 

his small eyes; and an entire absence of POSE; that accounts 

largely for his immense and enduring popularity。



But the Hotel Cap Martin shelters quieter crowned heads。  The 

Emperor and Empress of Austria; who tramp about the hilly roads; 

the King and Queen of Saxony and the fat Arch…duchess Stephanie。  

Austria's Empress looks sadly changed and ill; as does another lady 

of whom one can occasionally catch a glimpse; walking painfully 

with a crutch…stick in the shadow of the trees near her villa。  It 

is hard to believe that this white…haired; bent old woman was once 

the imperial beauty who from the salons of the Tuileries dictated 

the fashions of the world!  Few have paid so dearly for their brief 

hour of splendor!



Cannes with its excellent harbor is the centre of interest during 

the racing season when the Tsarewitsch comes on his yacht Czaritza。  

At the Battle of Flowers; one is pretty sure to see the Duke of 

Cambridge; his Imperial Highness; the Grand Duke Michael; Prince 

Christian of Denmark; H。R。H。 the Duke of Nassau; H。R。H。 the 

Archduke Ferdinand d'Este; their Serene Highnesses of Mecklenburg…

Schwerin and the Saxe…Coburg…Gothas; also H。R。H。 Marie Valerie and 

the Schleswig…Holsteins; pelting each other and the public with 

CONFETTI and flowers。  Indeed; half the A1MANACH DE GOTHA; that 

continental 〃society list;〃 seems to be sunning itself here and 

forgetting its cares; on bicycles or on board yachts。  It is said 

that the Crown Princess of Honolulu (whoever she may be) honors 

Mentone with her presence; and the newly deposed Queen 〃Ranavalo〃 

of Madagascar is EN ROUTE to join in the fun。



This crowd of royalty reminds me of a story the old sea…dogs who 

gather about the 〃Admirals' corner〃 of the Metropolitan Club in 

Washington; love to tell you。  An American cockswain; dazzled by a 

doubly royal visit; with attending suites; on board the old 

〃Constitution;〃 came up to his commanding officer and touching his 

cap; said:



〃Beg pardon; Admiral; but one of them kings has tumbled down the 

gangway and broke his leg。〃



It has become a much more amusing thing to wear a crown than it 

was。  Times have changed indeed since Marie Laczinska lived the 

fifty lonely years of her wedded life and bore her many children; 

in one bed…room at Versailles … a monotony only broken by visits to 

Fontainebleau or Marly。  Shakespeare's line no longer fits the 

case。



Beyond securing rich matches for their children; and keeping a 

sharp lookout that the Radicals at home do not unduly cut down 

their civil lists; these great ones have little but their 

amusements to occupy them。  Do they ever reflect; as they rush 

about visiting each other and squabbling over precedence when they 

meet; that some fine morning the tax…payers may wake up; and ask 

each other why they are being crushed under such heavy loads; that 

eight hundred or more quite useless people may pass their lives in 

foreign watering…places; away from their homes and their duties?  

It will be a bad day for them when the long…suffering subjects say 

to them; 〃Since we get on so exceedingly well during your many 

visits abroad; we think we will try how it will work without you at 

all!〃



The Prince of little Monaco seems to be about the only one up to 

the situation; for he at least stays at home; and in connection 

with two other gentlemen runs an exceedingly good hotel and several 

restaurants on his estates; doing all he can to attract money into 

the place; while making the strictest laws to prevent his subjects 

gambling at the famous tables。  Now if other royalties instead of 

amusing themselves all the year round would go in for something 

practical like this; they might become useful members of the 

community。  This idea of Monaco's Prince strikes one as most 

timely; and as opening a career for other indigent crowned heads。  

Hotels are getting so good and so numerous; that without some 

especial 〃attraction〃 a new one can hardly succeed; but a 

〃Hohenzollern House〃 well situated in Berlin; with William II。 to 

receive the tourists at the door; and his fat wife at the desk; 

would be sure to prosper。  It certainly would be pleasanter for him 

to spend money so honestly earned than the millions wrested from 

half…starving peasants which form his present income。  Besides 

there is almost as much gold lace on a hotel employee's livery as 

on a court costume!



The numerous crowned heads one meets wandering about; can hardly 

lull themselves over their 〃games〃 with the flattering unction that 

they are of use; for; have they not France before them (which they 

find so much to their taste) stronger; richer; more respected than 

ever since she shook herself free of such incumbrances?  Not to 

mention our own democratic country; which has managed to hold its 

own; in spite of their many gleeful predictions to the contrary。









CHAPTER 18 … A Rock Ahead





HAVING had occasion several times during this past season; to pass 

by the larger stores in the vicinity of Twenty…third Street; I have 

been struck more than ever; by the endless flow of womankind that 

beats against the doors of those establishments。  If they were 

temples where a beneficent deity was distributing health; learning; 

and all the good things of existence; the rush could hardly have 

been greater。  It saddened me to realize that each of the eager 

women I saw was; on the contrary; dispensing something of her 

strength and brain; as well as the wearily earned stipend of the 

men of her family (if not her own); for what could be of l

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