north america-1-第67章
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re； and I am told that the Brooklyn tea parties consider themselves to be； in esthetic feeling； very much ahead of anything of the kind in the more opulent centers of the city。 In beauty of scenery Staten Island is very much the prettiest of the suburbs of New York。 The view from the hillside in Staten Island down upon New York harbor is very lovely。 It is the only really good view of that magnificent harbor which I have been able to find。 As for appreciating such beauty when one is entering a port from sea or leaving it for sea； I do not believe in any such power。 The ship creeps up or creeps out while the mind is engaged on other matters。 The passenger is uneasy either with hopes or fears； and then the grease of the engines offends one's nostrils。 But it is worth the tourist's while to look down upon New York harbor from the hillside in Staten Island。 When I was there Fort Lafayette looked black in the center of the channel； and we knew that it was crowded with the victims of secession。 Fort Tompkins was being built to guard the passworthy of a name of richer sound； and Fort something else was bristling with new cannon。 Fort Hamilton； on Long Island； opposite； was frowning at us； and immediately around us a regiment of volunteers was receiving regimental stocks and boots from the hands of its officers。 Everything was bristling with war； and one could not but think that not in this way had New York raised herself so quickly to her present greatness。 But the glory of New York is the Central Parkits glory in the minds of all new Yorkers of the present day。 The first question asked of you is whether you have seen the Central Park； and the second is as to what you think of it。 It does not do to say simply that it is fine； grand； beautiful； and miraculous。 You must swear by cock and pie that it is more fine； more grand； more beautiful； more miraculous than anything else of the kind anywhere。 Here you encounter in its most annoying form that necessity for eulogium which presses you everywhere。 For in truth； taken as it is at present； the Central Park is not fine； nor grand； nor beautiful。 As to the miracle； let that pass。 It is perhaps as miraculous as some other great latter…day miracles。 But the Central Park is a very great fact； and affords a strong additional proof of the sense and energy of the people。 It is very large； being over three miles long and about three…quarters of a mile in breadth。 When it was found that New York was extending itself； and becoming one of the largest cities of the world； a space was selected between Fifth and Seventh Avenues； immediately outside the limits of the city as then built； but nearly in the center of the city as it is intended to be built。 The ground around it became at once of great value； and I do not doubt that the present fashion of Fifth Avenue about Twentieth Street will in course of time move itself up to Fifth Avenue as it looks； or will look； over the Park at Seventieth； Eightieth； and Ninetieth Streets。 The great water…works of the city bring the Croton River； whence New York is supplied； by an aqueduct over the Harlem River into an enormous reservoir just above the Park； and hence it has come to pass that there will be water not only for sanitary and useful purposes； but also for ornament。 At present the Park； to English eyes； seems to be all road。 The trees are not grown up； and the new embankments； and new lakes； and new ditches； and new paths give to the place anything but a picturesque appearance。 The Central Park is good for what it will be rather than for what it is。 The summer heat is so very great that I doubt much whether the people of New York will ever enjoy such verdure as our parks show。 But there will be a pleasant assemblage of walks and water…works； with fresh air and fine shrubs and flowers； immediately within the reach of the citizens。 All that art and energy can do will be done； and the Central Park doubtless will become one of the great glories of New York。 When I was expected to declare that St。 James's Park； Green Park； Hyde Park； and Kensington Gardens altogether were nothing to it； I confess that I could only remain mute。 Those who desire to learn what are the secrets of society in New York； I would refer to the Potiphar Papers。 The Potiphar Papers are perhaps not as well known in England as they deserve to be。 They were published； I think； as much as seven or eight years ago； but are probably as true now as they were then。 What I saw of society in New York was quiet and pleasant enough； but doubtless I did not climb into that circle in which Mrs。 Potiphar held so distinguished a position。 It may be true that gentlemen habitually throw fragments of their supper and remnants of their wine on to their host's carpets； but if so I did not see it。 As I progress in my work I feel that duty will call upon me to write a separate chapter on hotels in general； and I will not； therefore； here say much about those in New York。 I am inclined to think that few towns in the world； if any； afford on the whole better accommodation； but there are many in which the accommodation is cheaper。 Of the railways also I ought to say something。 The fact respecting them； which is most remarkable； is that of their being continued into the center of the town through the streets。 The cars are not dragged through the city by locomotive engines； but by horses； the pace therefore is slow； but the convenience to travelers in being brought nearer to the center of trade must be much felt。 It is as though passengers from Liverpool and passengers from Bristol were carried on from Euston Square and Paddington along the New Road； Portland Place； and Regent Street to Pall Mall； or up the City Road to the Bank。 As a general rule； however； the railways； railway cars； and all about them are ill managed。 They are monopolies； and the public； through the press； has no restraining power upon them as it has in England。 A parcel sent by express over a distance of forty miles will not be delivered within twenty…four hours。 I once made my plaint on this subject at the bar or office of a hotel； and was told that no remonstrance was of avail。 〃It is a monopoly；〃 the man told me； 〃and if we say anything； we are told that if we do not like it we need not use it。〃 In railway matters and postal matters time and punctuality are not valued in the States as they are with us； and the public seem to acknowledge that they must put up with defects that they must grin and bear them in America； as the public no doubt do in Austria； where such affairs are managed by a government bureau。 In the beginning of this chapter I spoke of the population of New York； and I cannot end it without remarking that out of that population more than one…eighth is composed of Germans。 It is； I believe； computed that there are about 120；000 Germans in the city； and that only two other German cities in the world； Vienna and Berlin have a larger German population than New York。 The Germans are good citizens and thriving men； and are to be found prospering all over the Northern and Western parts of the Union。 It seems that they are excellently well adapted to colonization； though they have in no instance become the dominant people in a colony； or carried with them their own language or their own laws。 The French have done so in Algeria； in some of the West India islands； and quite as essentially into Lower Canada； where their language and laws still prevail。 And yet it is； I think； beyond doubt that the French are not good colonists； as are the Germans。 Of the ultimate destiny of New York as one of the ruling commercial cities of the world； it is； I think； impossible to doubt。 Whether or no it will ever equal London in population I will not pretend to say； even should it do so； should its numbers so increase as to enable it to say that it had done so； the question could not very well be settled。 When it comes to pass that an assemblage of men in one so…called city have to be counted by millions； there arises the impossibility of defining the limits of that city； and of saying who belong to it and who do not。 An arbitrary line may be drawn； but that arbitrary line； though perhaps false when drawn as includi
