north america-1-第60章
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en believed that the temptations incident to his position have been more than a fair counterpoise； or even so much as a fair counterpoise； to his opportunities for doing good。 All men who work desire to prosper by their work； and they so desire by the nature given to them from God。 Wealth and progress must go on hand in hand together； let the accidents which occasionally divide them for a time happen as often as they may。 The progress of the Americans has been caused by their aptitude for money…making； and that continual kneeling at the shrine of the coined goddess has carried them across from New York to San Francisco。 Men who kneel at that shrine are called on to have ready wits and quick hands； and not a little aptitude for self…denial。 The New Yorker has been true to his dollar because his dollar has been true to him。 But not on this account can I； nor on this account will any Englishman； reconcile himself to the savor of dollars which pervades the atmosphere of New York。 The ars celare artem is wanting。 The making of money is the work of man； but he need not take his work to bed with him； and have it ever by his side at table； amid his family； in church； while he disports himself； as he declares his passion to the girl of his heart； in the moments of his softest bliss； and at the periods of his most solemn ceremonies。 That many do so elsewhere than in New Yorkin London； for instance； in Paris； among the mountains of Switzerland； and the steppes of RussiaI do not doubt。 But there is generally a vail thrown over the object of the worshiper's idolatry。 In New York one's ear is constantly filled with the fanatic's voice as he prays； one's eyes are always on the familiar altar。 The frankincense from the temple is ever in one's nostrils。 I have never walked down Fifth Avenue alone without thinking of money。 I have never walked there with a companion without talking of it。 I fancy that every man there； in order to maintain the spirit of the place； should bear on his forehead a label stating how many dollars he is worth； and that every label should be expected to assert a falsehood。 I do not think that New York has been less generous in the use of its money than other cities； or that the men of New York generally are so。 Perhaps I might go farther and say that in no city has more been achieved for humanity by the munificence of its richest citizens than in New York。 Its hospitals； asylums； and institutions for the relief of all ailments to which flesh is heir； are very numerous； and beyond praise in the excellence of their arrangements。 And this has been achieved in a great degree by private liberality。 Men in America are not as a rule anxious to leave large fortunes to their children。 The millionaire when making his will very generally gives back a considerable portion of the wealth which he has made to the city in which he made it。 The rich citizen is always anxious that the poor citizen shall be relieved。 It is a point of honor with him to raise the character of his municipality； and to provide that the deaf and dumb； the blind； the mad； the idiots； the old； and the incurable shall have such alleviation in their misfortune as skill and kindness can afford。 Nor is the New Yorker a hugger…mugger with his money。 He does not hide up his dollars in old stockings and keep rolls of gold in hidden pots。 He does not even invest it where it will not grow but only produce small though sure fruit。 He builds houses； he speculates largely； he spreads himself in trade to the extent of his wingsand not seldom somewhat farther。 He scatters his wealth broadcast over strange fields； trusting that it may grow with an increase of a hundredfold； but bold to bear the loss should the strange field prove itself barren。 His regret at losing his money is by no means commensurate with his desire to make it。 In this there is a living spirit which to me divests the dollar…worshiping idolatry of something of its ugliness。 The hand when closed on the gold is instantly reopened。 The idolator is anxious to get； but he is anxious also to spend。 He is energetic to the last； and has no comfort with his stock unless it breeds with Transatlantic rapidity of procreation。 So much I say； being anxious to scrape off some of that daub of black paint with which I have smeared the face of my New Yorker； but not desiring to scrape it all off。 For myself； I do not love to live amid the clink of gold； and never have 〃a good time；〃 as the Americans say； when the price of shares and percentages come up in conversation。 That state of men's minds here which I have endeavored to explain tends； I think； to make New York disagreeable。 A stranger there who has no great interest in percentages soon finds himself anxious to escape。 By degrees he perceives that he is out of his element； and had better go away。 He calls at the bank； and when he shows himself ignorant as to the price at which his sovereigns should be done； he is conscious that he is ridiculous。 He is like a man who goes out hunting for the first time at forty years of age。 He feels himself to be in the wrong place； and is anxious to get out of it。 Such was my experience of New York； at each of the visits that I paid to it。 But yet； I say again； no other American city is so intensely American as New York。 It is generally considered that the inhabitants of New England； the Yankees properly so called； have the American characteristics of physiognomy in the fullest degree。 The lantern jaws； the thin and lithe body； the dry face on which there has been no tint of the rose since the baby's long…clothes were first abandoned； the harsh； thick hair； the thin lips； the intelligent eyes； the sharp voice with the nasal twangnot altogether harsh； though sharp and nasalall these traits are supposed to belong especially to the Yankee。 Perhaps it was so once； but at present they are； I think； more universally common in New York than in any other part of the States。 Go to Wall Street； the front of the Astor House； and the regions about Trinity Church； and you will find them in their fullest perfection。 What circumstances of blood or food； of early habit or subsequent education； have created for the latter…day American his present physiognomy？ It is as completely marked； as much his own； as is that of any race under the sun that has bred in and in for centuries。 But the American owns a more mixed blood than any other race known。 The chief stock is English； which is itself so mixed that no man can trace its ramifications。 With this are mingled the bloods of Ireland； Holland； France； Sweden； and Germany。 All this has been done within but a few years； so that the American may be said to have no claim to any national type of face。 Nevertheless； no man has a type of face so clearly national as the American。 He is acknowledged by it all over the continent of Europe； and on his own side of the water is gratified by knowing that he is never mistaken for his English visitor。 I think it comes from the hot… air pipes and from dollar worship。 In the Jesuit his mode of dealing with things divine has given a peculiar cast of countenance； and why should not the American be similarly moulded by his special aspirations？ As to the hot…air pipes； there can； I think； be no doubt that to them is to be charged the murder of all rosy cheeks throughout the States。 If the effect was to be noticed simply in the dry faces of the men about Wall Street； I should be very indifferent to the matter。 But the young ladies of Fifth Avenue are in the same category。 The very pith and marrow of life is baked out of their young bones by the hot…air chambers to which they are accustomed。 Hot air is the great destroyer of American beauty。 In saying that there is very little to be seen in New York I have also said that there is no way of seeing that little。 My assertion amounts to this； that there are no cabs。 To the reading world at large this may not seem to be much； but let the reading world go to New York； and it will find out how much the deficiency means。 In London； in Paris； in Florence； in Rome； in the Havana； or at Grand Cairo； the cab…driver or attendant does not merely drive the cab or belabor the donkey； but he is the v
