north america-1-第51章
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as grander and bigger than other post…offices； though the postmaster confessed to me that that matter of the delivery of letters was one which could not be compassed。 Just at that moment it was being done as a private speculation； but it did not pay； and would be discontinued。 The theater； too； was large； handsome； and convenient； but on the night of my attendance it seemed to lack an audience。 A good comic actor it did not lack； and I never laughed more heartily in my life。 There was something wrong； too； just at that timeI could not make out whatin the Constitution of Illinois； and the present moment had been selected for voting a new Constitution。 To us in England such a necessity would be considered a matter of importance； but it did not seem to be much thought of here； 〃Some slight alteration probably；〃 I suggested。 〃No；〃 said my informant； one of the judges of their courts； 〃it is to be a thorough； radical change of the whole Constitution。 They are voting the delegates to…day。〃 I went to see them vote the delegates； but； unfortunately； got into a wrong placeby invitationand was turned out； not without some slight tumult。 I trust that the new Constitution was carried through successfully。 From these little details it may； perhaps； be understood how a town like Chicago goes on and prospers in spite of all the drawbacks which are incident to newness。 Men in those regions do not mind failures； and； when they have failed； instantly begin again。 They make their plans on a large scale； and they who come after them fill up what has been wanting at first。 Those taps of hot and cold water will be made to run by the next owner of the hotel； if not by the present owner。 In another ten years the letters； I do not doubt； will all be delivered。 Long before that time the theater will probably be full。 The new Constitution is no doubt already at work； and； if found deficient； another will succeed to it without any trouble to the State or any talk on the subject through the Union。 Chicago was intended as a town of export for corn； and therefore the corn stores have received the first attention。 When I was there they were in perfect working order。 From Chicago we went on to Cleveland； a town in the State of Ohio； on Lake Erie； again traveling by the sleeping…cars。 I found that these cars were universally mentioned with great horror and disgust by Americans of the upper class。 They always declared that they would not travel in them on any account。 Noise and dirt were the two objections。 They are very noisy； but to us belonged the happy power of sleeping down noise。 I invariably slept all through the night； and knew nothing about the noise。 They are also very dirty extremely dirtydirty so as to cause much annoyance。 But then they are not quite so dirty as the day cars。 If dirt is to be a bar against traveling in America； men and women must stay at home。 For myself； I don't much care for dirt； having a strong reliance on soap and water and scrubbing…brushes。 No one regards poisons who carries antidotes in which he has perfect faith。 Cleveland is another pleasant townpleasant as Milwaukee and Portland。 The streets are handsome and are shaded by grand avenues of trees。 One of these streets is over a mile in length； and throughout the whole of it there are trees on each sidenot little； paltry trees as are to be seen on the boulevards of Paris； but spreading elms： the beautiful American elm； which not only spreads； but droops also； and makes more of its foliage than any other tree extant。 And there is a square in Cleveland； well sized； as large as Russell Square I should say； with open paths across it； and containing one or two handsome buildings。 I cannot but think that all men and women in London would be great gainers if the iron rails of the squares were thrown down and the grassy inclosures thrown open to the public。 Of course the edges of the turf would be worn； and the paths would not keep their exact shapes。 But the prison look would be banished； and the somber sadness of the squares would be relieved。 I was particularly struck by the size and comfort of the houses at Cleveland。 All down that street of which I have spoken they do not stand continuously together； but are detached and separatehouses which in England would require some fifteen or eighteen hundred a year for their maintenance。 In the States； however； men commonly expend upon house rent a much greater proportion of their income than they do in England。 With us it is； I believe； thought that a man should certainly not apportion more than a seventh of his spending income to his house rentsome say not more than a tenth。 But in many cities of the States a man is thought to live well within bounds if he so expends a fourth。 There can be no doubt as to Americans living in better houses than Englishmen； making the comparison of course between men of equal incomes。 But the Englishman has many more incidental expenses than the American。 He spends more on wine； on entertainments； on horses； and on amusements。 He has a more numerous establishment； and keeps up the adjuncts and outskirts of his residence with a more finished neatness。 These houses in Cleveland were very good； as； indeed； they are in most Northern towns； but some of them have been erected with an amount of bad taste that is almost incredible。 It is not uncommon to see in front of a square brick house a wooden quasi…Greek portico； with a pediment and Ionic columns； equally high with the house itself。 Wooden columns with Greek capitals attached to the doorways； and wooden pediments over the windows； are very frequent。 As a rule； these are attached to houses which； without such ornamentation； would be simple； unpretentious； square； roomy residences。 An Ionic or Corinthian capital stuck on to a log of wood called a column； and then fixed promiscuously to the outside of an ordinary house； is to my eye the vilest of architectural pretenses。 Little turrets are better than this； or even brown battlements made of mortar。 Except in America I do not remember to have seen these vicious bits of white timbertimber painted white plastered on to the fronts and sides of red brick houses。 Again we went on by rail to Buffalo。 I have traveled some thousands of miles by railway in the States； taking long journeys by night and longer journeys by day； but I do not remember that while doing so I ever made acquaintance with an American。 To an American lady in a railway car I should no more think of speaking than I should to an unknown female in the next pew to me at a London church。 It is hard to understand from whence come the laws which govern societies in this respect； but there are different laws in different societies； which soon obtain recognition for themselves。 American ladies are much given to talking； and are generally free from all mauvaise honte。 They are collected in manner； well instructed； and resolved to have their share of the social advantages of the world。 In this phase of life they come out more strongly than English women。 But on a railway journey； be it ever so long； they are never seen speaking to a stranger。 English women； however； on English railways are generally willing to converse： they will do so if they be on a journey； but will not open their mouths if they be simply passing backward and forward between their homes and some neighboring town。 We soon learn the rules on these subjects； but who make the rules？ If you cross the Atlantic with an American lady you invariably fall in love with her before the journey is over。 Travel with the same woman in a railway car for twelve hours； and you will have written her down in your own mind in quite other language than that of love。 And now for Buffalo； and the elevators。 I trust I have made it understood that corn comes into Buffalo； not only from Chicago； of which I have spoken specially； but from all the ports round the lakes： Racine； Milwaukee； Grand Haven； Port Sarnia； Detroit； Toledo； Cleveland； and many others。 At these ports the produce is generally bought and sold； but at Buffalo it is merely passed through a gateway。 It is taken from vessels of a size fitted for the lakes； and placed in other vessels fitted for the canal
