north america-1-第45章
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t extent the fertility of land may go; or how great may be the weight of cereal crops。 And for all this the Mississippi was the high…road to market。 When the crop of 1861 was garnered; this high…road was stopped by the war。 What suffering this entailed on the South I will not here stop to say; but on the West the effect was terrible。 Corn was in such plentyIndian…corn; that is; or maizethat it was not worth the farmer's while to prepare it for market。 When I was in Illinois; the second quality of Indian…corn; when shelled; was not worth more than from eight to ten cents a bushel。 But the shelling and preparation is laborious; and in some instances it was found better to burn it for fuel than to sell it。 Respecting the export of corn from the West; I must say a further word or two in the next chapter; but it seemed to be indispensable that I should point out here how great to the United States is the need of the Mississippi。 Nor is it for corn and wheat only that its waters are needed。 Timber; lead; iron; coal; porkall find; or should find; their exit to the world at large by this road。 There are towns on it; and on its tributaries; already holding more than one hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants。 The number of Cincinnati exceeds that; as also does the number of St。 Louis。 Under these circumstances it is not wonderful that the States should wish to keep in their own hands the navigation of this river。 It is not wonderful。 But it will not; I think; be admitted by the politicians of the world that the navigation of the Mississippi need be closed against the West; even though the Southern States should succeed in raising themselves to the power and dignity of a separate nationality。 If the waters of the Danube be not open to Austria; it is through the fault of Austria。 That the subject will be one of trouble; no man can doubt; and of course it would be well for the North to avoid that; or any other trouble。 In the mean time the importance of this right of way must be admitted; and it must be admitted; also; that whatever may be the ultimate resolve of the North; it will be very difficult to reconcile the West to a divided dominion of the Mississippi。 St。 Paul contains about 14;000 inhabitants; and; like all other American towns; is spread over a surface of ground adapted to the accommodation of a very extended population。 As it is belted on one side by the river; and on the other by the bluffs which accompany the course of the river; the site is pretty; and almost romantic。 Here also we found a great hotel; a huge; square building; such as we in England might perhaps place near to a railway terminus in such a city as Glasgow or Manchester; but on which no living Englishman would expend his money in a town even five times as big again as St。 Paul。 Everything was sufficiently good; and much more than sufficiently plentiful。 The whole thing went on exactly as hotels do down in Massachusetts or the State of New York。 Look at the map and see where St。 Paul is。 Its distance from all known civilizationall civilization that has succeeded in obtaining acquaintance with the world at largeis very great。 Even American travelers do not go up there in great numbers; excepting those who intend to settle there。 A stray sportsman or two; American or English; as the case may be; makes his way into Minnesota for the sake of shooting; and pushes on up through St。 Paul to the Red River。 Some few adventurous spirits visit the Indian settlements; and pass over into the unsettled regions of Dacotah and Washington Territory。 But there is no throng of traveling。 Nevertheless; a hotel has been built there capable of holding three hundred guests; and other hotels exist in the neighborhood; one of which is even larger than that at St。 Paul。 Who can come to them; and create even a hope that such an enterprise may be remunerative? In America it is seldom more than hope; for one always hears that such enterprises fail。 When I was there the war was in hand; and it was hardly to be expected that any hotel should succeed。 The landlord told me that he held it at the present time for a very low rent; and that he could just manage to keep it open without loss。 The war which hindered people from traveling; and in that way injured the innkeepers; also hindered people from housekeeping; and reduced them to the necessity of boarding out; by which the innkeepers were of course benefited。 At St。 Paul I found that the majority of the guests were inhabitants of the town; boarding at the hotel; and thus dispensing with the cares of a separate establishment。 I do not know what was charged for such accommodation at St。 Paul; but I have come across large houses at which a single man could get all that he required for a dollar a day。 Now Americans are great consumers; especially at hotels; and all that a man requires includes three hot meals; with a choice from about two dozen dishes at each。 From St。 Paul there are two waterfalls to be seen; which we; of course; visited。 We crossed the river at Fort Snelling; a rickety; ill…conditioned building standing at the confluence of the Minnesota and Mississippi Rivers; built there to repress the Indians。 It is; I take it; very necessary; especially at the present moment; as the Indians seem to require repressing。 They have learned that the attention of the Federal government has been called to the war; and have become bold in consequence。 When I was at St。 Paul I heard of a party of Englishmen who had been robbed of everything they possessed; and was informed that the farmers in the distant parts of the State were by no means secure。 The Indians are more to be pitied than the farmers。 They are turning against enemies who will neither forgive nor forget any injuries done。 When the war is over they will be improved; and polished; and annexed; till no Indian will hold an acre of land in Minnesota。 At present Fort Snelling is the nucleus of a recruiting camp。 On the point between the bluffs of the two rivers there is a plain; immediately in front of the fort; and there we saw the newly…joined Minnesota recruits going through their first military exercises。 They were in detachments of twenties; and were rude enough at their goose step。 The matter which struck me most in looking at them was the difference of condition which I observed in the men。 There were the country lads; fresh from the farms; such as we see following the recruiting sergeant through English towns; but there were also men in black coats and black trowsers; with thin boots; and trimmed beardsbeards which had been trimmed till very lately; and some of them with beards which showed that they were no longer young。 It was inexpressibly melancholy to see such men as these twisting and turning about at the corporal's word; each handling some stick in his hand in lieu of weapon。 Of course; they were more awkward than the boys; even though they were twice more assiduous in their efforts。 Of course; they were sad and wretched。 I saw men there that were very wretchedall but heart…broken; if one might judge from their faces。 They should not have been there handling sticks; and moving their unaccustomed legs in cramped paces。 They were as razors; for which no better purpose could be found than the cutting of blocks。 When such attempts are made the block is not cut; but the razor is spoiled。 Most unfit for the commencement of a soldier's life were some that I saw there; but I do not doubt that they had been attracted to the work by the one idea of doing something for their country in its trouble。 From Fort Snelling we went on to the Falls of Minnehaha。 Minnehaha; laughing water。 Such; I believe; is the interpretation。 The name in this case is more imposing than the fall。 It is a pretty little cascade; and might do for a picnic in fine weather; but it is not a waterfall of which a man can make much when found so far away from home。 Going on from Minnehaha we came to Minneapolis; at which place there is a fine suspension bridge across the river; just above the falls of St。 Anthony and leading to the town of that name。 Till I got there I could hardly believe that in these days there should be a living village called Minneapolis by living men。