north america-1-第43章
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y…five； and forty years。 They had； I believe； devoted themselves with a true spirit of patriotism。 No doubt each had some ulterior hope as to himself； as has every mortal patriot。 Regulus； when he returned hopeless to Carthage； trusted that some Horace would tell his story。 Each of these men from Minnesota looked probably forward to his reward； but the reward desired was of a high class。 The first great misery to be endured by these regiments will be the military lesson of obedience which they must learn before they can be of any service。 It always seemed to me； when I came near them； that they had not as yet recognized the necessary austerity of an officer's duty。 Their idea of a captain was the stage idea of a leader of dramatic bandittia man to be followed and obeyed as a leader； but to be obeyed with that free and easy obedience which is accorded to the reigning chief of the forty thieves。 〃Waal； captain；〃 I have heard a private say to his officer； as he sat on one seat in a railway car； with his feet upon the back of another。 And the captain has looked as though he did not like it。 The captain did not like it； but the poor private was being fast carried to that destiny which he would like still less。 From the first I have had faith in the Northern army； but from the first I have felt that the suffering to be endured by these free and independent volunteers would be very great。 A man； to be available as a private soldier； must be compressed and belted in till he be a machine。 As soon as the men had left the vessel we walked over the side of it and took possession。 〃I am afraid your cabin won't be ready for a quarter of an hour；〃 said the clerk。 〃Such a body of men as that will leave some dirt after them。〃 I assured him； of course； that our expectations under such circumstances were very limited； and that I was fully aware that the boat and the boat's company were taken up with matters of greater moment than the carriage of ordinary passengers。 But to this he demurred altogether。 〃The regiments were very little to them； but occasioned much trouble。 Everything； however； should be square in fifteen minutes。〃 At the expiration of the time named the key of our state…room was given to us； and we found the appurtenances as clean as though no soldier had ever put his foot upon the vessel。 From La Crosse to St。 Paul the distance up the river is something over 200 miles； and from St。 Paul down to Dubuque in Iowa； to which we went on our return； the distance is 450 miles。 We were； therefore； for a considerable time on board these boatsmore so than such a journey may generally make necessary； as we were delayed at first by the soldiers； and afterward by accidents； such as the breaking of a paddle…wheel； and other causes； to which navigation on the Upper Mississippi seems to be liable。 On the whole； we slept on board four nights； and lived on board as many days。 I cannot say that the life was comfortable； though I do not know that it could be made more so by any care on the part of the boat owners。 My first complaint would be against the great heat of the cabins。 The Americans； as a rule； live in an atmosphere which is almost unbearable by an Englishman。 To this cause； I am convinced； is to be attributed their thin faces； their pale skins； their unenergetic temperamentunenergetic as regards physical motionand their early old age。 The winters are long and cold in America； and mechanical ingenuity is far extended。 These two facts together have created a system of stoves； hot…air pipes； steam chambers； and heating apparatus so extensive that； from autumn till the end of spring； all inhabited rooms are filled with the atmosphere of a hot oven。 An Englishman fancies that he is to be baked； and for awhile finds it almost impossible to exist in the air prepared for him。 How the heat is engendered on board the river steamers I do not know； but it is engendered to so great a degree that the sitting…cabins are unendurable。 The patient is therefore driven out at all hours into the outside balconies of the boat； or on to the top rooffor it is a roof rather than a deck and there； as he passes through the air at the rate of twenty miles an hour； finds himself chilled to the very bones。 That is my first complaint。 But as the boats are made for Americans； and as Americans like hot air； I do not put it forward with any idea that a change ought to be effected。 My second complaint is equally unreasonable； and is quite as incapable of a remedy as the first。 Nine…tenths of the travelers carry children with them。 They are not tourists engaged on pleasure excursions； but men and women intent on the business of life。 They are moving up and down looking for fortune and in search of new homes。 Of course they carry with them all their household goods。 Do not let any critic say that I grudge these young travelers their right to locomotion。 Neither their right to locomotion is grudged by me； nor any of those privileges which are accorded in America to the rising generation。 The habits of their country and the choice of their parents give to them full dominion over all hours and over all places； and it would ill become a foreigner to make such habits and such choice a ground of serious complaint。 But； nevertheless； the uncontrolled energies of twenty children round one's legs do not convey comfort or happiness； when the passing events are producing noise and storm rather than peace and sunshine。 I must protest that American babies are an unhappy race。 They eat and drink just as they please； they are never punished； they are never banished； snubbed； and kept in the background as children are kept with us； and yet they are wretched and uncomfortable。 My heart has bled for them as I have heard them squalling by the hour together in agonies of discontent and dyspepsia。 Can it be； I wonder； that children are happier when they are made to obey orders； and are sent to bed at six o'clock； than when allowed to regulate their own conduct； that bread and milk are more favorable to laughter and soft； childish ways than beef…steaks and pickles three times a day； that an occasional whipping； even； will conduce to rosy cheeks？ It is an idea which I should never dare to broach to an American mother； but I must confess that； after my travels on the Western Continent； my opinions have a tendency in that direction。 Beef…steaks and pickles certainly produce smart little men and women。 Let that be taken for granted。 But rosy laughter and winning； childish ways are； I fancy； the produce of bread and milk。 But there was a third reason why traveling on these boats was not so pleasant as I had expected。 I could not get my fellow…travelers to talk to me。 It must be understood that our fellow…travelers were not generally of that class which we Englishmen； in our pride； designate as gentlemen and ladies。 They were people； as I have said； in search of new homes and new fortunes。 But I protest that as such they would have been； in those parts； much more agreeable as companions to me than any gentlemen or any ladies； if only they would have talked to me。 I do not accuse them of any incivility。 If addressed； they answered me。 If application was made by me for any special information； trouble was taken to give it me。 But I found no aptitude； no wish for conversationnay； even a disinclination to converse。 In the Western States I do not think that I was ever addressed first by an American sitting next to me at table。 Indeed； I never held any conversation at a public table in the West。 I have sat in the same room with men for hours； and have not had a word spoken to me。 I have done my very best to break through this ice； and have always failed。 A Western American man is not a talking man。 He will sit for hours over a stove； with a cigar in his mouth and his hat over his eyes； chewing the cud of reflection。 A dozen will sit together in the same way； and there shall not be a dozen words spoken between them in an hour。 With the women one's chance of conversation is still worse。 It seemed as though the cares of the world had been too much for them； and that all talking excepting as to businessdemands； for instance； on the servants for pickles for their
