north america-1-第30章
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with water。 The time； however； will be very long。 In the mean while； it is perhaps a mile round； and is covered thickly with timber。 At the upper end of the island the waters are divided； and； coming down in two courses each over its own rapids； form two separate falls。 The bridge by which the island is entered is a hundred yards or more above the smaller fall。 The waters here have been turned by the island； and make their leap into the body of the river below at a right angle with itabout two hundred yards below the greater fall。 Taken alone； this smaller cataract would； I imagine； be the heaviest fall of water known； but taken in conjunction with the other； it is terribly shorn of its majesty。 The waters here are not green as they are at the larger cataract； and； though the ledge has been hollowed and bowed by them so as to form a curve； that curve does not deepen itself into a vast abyss as it does at the horseshoe up above。 This smaller fall is again divided； and the visitor； passing down a flight of steps and over a frail wooden bridge； finds himself on a smaller island in the midst of it。 But we will go at once on to the glory； and the thunder； and the majesty； and the wrath of that upper hell of waters。 We are still； let the reader remember； on Goat Islandstill in the Statesand on what is called the American side of the main body of the river。 Advancing beyond the path leading down to the lesser fall； we come to that point of the island at which the waters of the main river begin to descend。 From hence across to the Canadian side the cataract continues itself in one unabated line。 But the line is very far from being direct or straight。 After stretching for some little way from the shore to a point in the river which is reached by a wooden bridge at the end of which stands a tower upon the rock；after stretching to this； the line of the ledge bends inward against the floodin； and in； and intill one is led to think that the depth of that horseshoe is immeasurable。 It has been cut with no stinting hand。 A monstrous cantle has been worn back out of the center of the rock； so that the fury of the waters converges； and the spectator； as he gazes into the hollow with wishful eyes； fancies that he can hardly trace out the center of the abyss。 Go down to the end of that wooden bridge； seat yourself on the rail； and there sit till all the outer world is lost to you。 There is no grander spot about Niagara than this。 The waters are absolutely around you。 If you have that power of eye…contrio which is so necessary to the full enjoyment of scenery； you will see nothing but the water。 You will certainly hear nothing else； and the sound； I beg you to remember； is not an ear…cracking； agonizing crash and clang of noises； but is melodious and soft withal； though loud as thunder。 It fills your ears； and； as it were； envelops them； but at the same time you can speak to your neighbor without an effort。 But at this place； and in these moments； the less of speaking； I should say； the better。 There is no grander spot than this。 Here； seated on the rail of the bridge； you will not see the whole depth of the fall。 In looking at the grandest works of nature； and of art too； I fancy it is never well to see all。 There should be something left to the imagination； and much should be half concealed in mystery。 The greatest charm of a mountain range is the wild feeling that there must be strange； unknown； desolate worlds in those far…off valleys beyond。 And so here； at Niagara； that converging rush of waters may fall down； down at once into a hell of rivers； for what the eye can see。 It is glorious to watch them in their first curve over the rocks。 They come green as a bank of emeralds； but with a fitful； flying color； as though conscious that in one moment more they would be dashed into spray and rise into air； pale as driven snow。 The vapor rises high into the air； and is gathered there； visible always as a permanent white cloud over the cataract； but the bulk of the spray which fills the lower hollow of that horseshoe is like a tumult of snow。 This you will not fully see from your seat on the rail。 The head of it rises ever and anon out of that caldron below； but the caldron itself will be invisible。 It is ever so far downfar as your own imagination can sink it。 But your eyes will rest full upon the curve of the waters。 The shape you will be looking at is that of a horseshoe； but of a horseshoe miraculously deep from toe to heel； and this depth becomes greater as you sit there。 That which at first was only great and beautiful becomes gigantic and sublime； till the mind is at loss to find an epithet for its own use。 To realize Niagara； you must sit there till you see nothing else than that which you have come to see。 You will hear nothing else； and think of nothing else。 At length you will be at one with the tumbling river before you。 You will find yourself among the waters as though you belonged to them。 The cool； liquid green will run through your veins； and the voice of the cataract will be the expression of your own heart。 You will fall as the bright waters fall； rushing down into your new world with no hesitation and with no dismay； and you will rise again as the spray rises； bright； beautiful； and pure。 Then you will flow away in your course to the uncompassed； distant； and eternal ocean。 When this state has been reached and has passed away； you may get off your rail and mount the tower。 I do not quite approve of that tower； seeing that it has about it a gingerbread air； and reminds one of those well…arranged scenes of romance in which one is told that on the left you turn to the lady's bower； price sixpence； and on the right ascend to the knight's bed； price sixpence more； with a view of the hermit's tomb thrown in。 But nevertheless the tower is worth mounting； and no money is charged for the use of it。 It is not very high； and there is a balcony at the top on which some half dozen persons may stand at ease。 Here the mystery is lost； but the whole fall is seen。 It is not even at this spot brought so fully before your eye； made to show itself in so complete and entire a shape； as it will do when you come to stand near to it on the opposite or Canadian shore。 But I think that it shows itself more beautifully。 And the form of the cataract is such that here； on Goat Island； on the American side； no spray will reach you； although you are absolutely over the waters。 But on the Canadian side； the road as it approaches the fall is wet and rotten with spray； and you； as you stand close upon the edge； will be wet also。 The rainbows as they are seen through the rising cloudfor the sun's rays as seen through these waters show themselves in a bow； as they do when seen through rainare pretty enough； and are greatly loved。 For myself； I do not care for this prettiness at Niagara。 It is there； but I forget it； and do not mind how soon it is forgotten。 But we are still on the tower； and here I must declare that though I forgive the tower； I cannot forgive the horrid obelisk which has latterly been built opposite to it； on the Canadian side； up above the fall； built apparentlyfor I did not go to itwith some camera…obscura intention for which the projector deserves to be put in Coventry by all good Christian men and women。 At such a place as Niagara tasteless buildings； run up in wrong places with a view to money making； are perhaps necessary evils。 It may be that they are not evils at all； that they give more pleasure than pain； seeing that they tend to the enjoyment of the multitude。 But there are edifices of this description which cry aloud to the gods by the force of their own ugliness and malposition。 As to such； it may be said that there should somewhere exist a power capable of crushing them in their birth。 This new obelisk； or picture…building at Niagara； is one of such。 And now we will cross the water； and with this object will return by the bridge out of Goat Island； on the main land of the American side。 But as we do so； let me say that one of the great charms of Niagara consists in this： that over and above that one great object of wonder and beauty； there is so much little loveliness loveliness especi
