north america-1-第29章
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s I intend to include all buildings； pictures； statues； and wonders of art made by men's hands； and also all beauties of nature prepared by the Creator for the delight of his creatures。 This is a long word； but； as far as my taste and judgment go； it is justified。 I know no other one thing so beautiful； so glorious； and so powerful。 I would not by this be understood as saying that a traveler wishing to do the best with his time should first of all places seek Niagara。 In visiting Florence he may learn almost all that modern art can teach。 At Rome he will be brought to understand the cold hearts； correct eyes； and cruel ambition of the old Latin race。 In Switzerland he will surround himself with a flood of grandeur and loveliness； and fill himself； if he be capable of such filling； with a flood of romance。 The tropics will unfold to him all that vegetation in its greatest richness can produce。 In Paris he will find the supreme of polish； the ne plus ultra of varnish according to the world's capability of varnishing。 And in London he will find the supreme of power； the ne plus ultra of work according to the world's capability of working。 Any one of such journeys may be more valuable to a mannay； any one such journey must be more valuable to a manthan a visit to Niagara。 At Niagara there is that fall of waters alone。 But that fall is more graceful than Giotto's tower； more noble than the Apollo。 The peaks of the Alps are not so astounding in their solitude。 The valleys of the Blue Mountains in Jamaica are less green。 The finished glaze of life in Paris is less invariable； and the full tide of trade round the Bank of England is not so inexorably powerful。 I came across an artist at Niagara who was attempting to draw the spray of the waters。 〃You have a difficult subject；〃 said I。 〃All subjects are difficult；〃 he replied； 〃to a man who desires to do well。〃 〃But yours； I fear is impossible；〃 I said。 〃You have no right to say so till I have finished my picture；〃 he replied。 I acknowledged the justice of his rebuke； regretted that I could not remain till the completion of his work should enable me to revoke my words； and passed on。 Then I began to reflect whether I did not intend to try a task as difficult in describing the falls； and whether I felt any of that proud self…confidence which kept him happy at any rate while his task was in hand。 I will not say that it is as difficult to describe aright that rush of waters as it is to paint it well。 But I doubt whether it is not quite as difficult to write a description that shall interest the reader as it is to paint a picture of them that shall be pleasant to the beholder。 My friend the artist was at any rate not afraid to make the attempt； and I also will try my hand。 That the waters of Lake Erie have come down in their courses from the broad basins of Lake Michigan； Lake Superior； and Lake Huron； that these waters fall into Lake Ontario by the short and rapid river of Niagara； and that the falls of Niagara are made by a sudden break in the level of this rapid river； is probably known to all who will read this book。 All the waters of these huge northern inland seas run over that breach in the rocky bottom of the stream； and thence it comes that the flow is unceasing in its grandeur； and that no eye can perceive a difference in the weight； or sound； or violence of the fall whether it be visited in the drought of autumn； amid the storms of winter； or after the melting of the upper worlds of ice in the days of the early summer。 How many cataracts does the habitual tourist visit at which the waters fail him！ But at Niagara the waters never fail。 There it thunders over its ledge in a volume that never ceases and is never diminishedas it has done from times previous to the life of man； and as it will do till tens of thousands of years shall see the rocky bed of the river worn away back to the upper lake。 This stream divides Canada from the Statesthe western or farthermost bank belonging to the British Crown； and the eastern or nearer bank being in the State of New York。 In visiting Niagara； it always becomes a question on which side the visitor shall take up his quarters。 On the Canada side there is no town； but there is a large hotel beautifully placed immediately opposite to the falls and this is generally thought to be the best locality for tourists。 In the State of New York is the town called Niagara Falls； and here there are two large hotels； which； as to their immediate site； are not so well placed as that in Canada。 I first visited Niagara some three years since。 I stayed then at the Clifton House； on the Canada side； and have since sworn by that position。 But the Clifton House was closed for the season when I was last there； and on that account we went to the Cataract House； in the town on the other side。 I now think that I should set up my staff on the American side； if I went again。 My advice on the subject to any party starting for Niagara would depend upon their habits or on their nationality。 I would send Americans to the Canadian side； because they dislike walking； but English people I would locate on the American side； seeing that they are generally accustomed to the frequent use of their own legs。 The two sides are not very easily approached one from the other。 Immediately below the falls there is a ferry； which may be traversed at the expense of a shilling； but the labor of getting up and down from the ferry is considerable； and the passage becomes wearisome。 There is also a bridge； but it is two miles down the river； making a walk or drive of four miles necessary； and the toll for passing is four shillings； or a dollar； in a carriage； and one shilling on foot。 As the greater variety of prospect can be had on the American side； as the island between the two falls is approachable from the American side and not from the Canadian； and as it is in this island that visitors will best love to linger； and learn to measure in their minds the vast triumph of waters before them； I recommend such of my readers as can trust a littleit need be but a little to their own legs to select their hotel at Niagara Falls town。 It has been said that it matters much from what point the falls are first seen； but to this I demur。 It matters； I think； very little； or not at all。 Let the visitor first see it all； and learn the whereabouts of every point； so as to understand his own position and that of the waters； and then； having done that in the way of business； let him proceed to enjoyment。 I doubt whether it be not the best to do this with all sight…seeing。 I am quite sure that it is the way in which acquaintance may be best and most pleasantly made with a new picture。 The falls； as I have said； are made by a sudden breach in the level of the river。 All cataracts are； I presume； made by such breaches； but generally the waters do not fall precipitously as they do at Niagara； and never elsewhere； as far as the world yet knows； has a breach so sudden been made in a river carrying in its channel such or any approach to such a body of water。 Up above the falls for more than a mile the waters leap and burst over rapids； as though conscious of the destiny that awaits them。 Here the river is very broad and comparatively shallow； but from shore to shore it frets itself into little torrents； and begins to assume the majesty of its power。 Looking at it even here； in the expanse which forms itself over the greater fall； one feels sure that no strongest swimmer could have a chance of saving himself if fate had cast him in even among those petty whirlpools。 The waters though so broken in their descent； are deliciously green。 This color； as seen early in the morning or just as the sun has set； is so bright as to give to the place one of its chiefest charms。 This will be best seen from the farther end of the islandGoat Island as it is calledwhich； as the reader will understand； divides the river immediately above the falls。 Indeed； the island is a part of that precipitously…broken ledge over which the river tumbles； and no doubt in process of time will be worn away and covered with water。 The time； however； will be very long。 In the mean while； it is perhaps a mile round；
