north america-1-第22章
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n has great charms； regarding it as the site for a town。 It is not on a plain； and from the form of the rock overhanging the river； and of the hill that falls from thence down to the water； it has been found impracticable to lay out the place in right…angled parallelograms。 A right…angled parallelogramical city； such as are Philadelphia and the new portion of New York； is from its very nature odious to me。 I know that much may be said in its favorthat drainage and gas… pipes come easier to such a shape； and that ground can be better economized。 Nevertheless； I prefer a street that is forced to twist itself about。 I enjoy the narrowness of Temple Bar and the misshapen curvature of Picket Street。 The disreputable dinginess of Hollowell Street is dear to me； and I love to thread my way up the Olympic into Covent Garden。 Fifth Avenue in New York is as grand as paint and glass can make it； but I would not live in a palace in Fifth Avenue if the corporation of the city would pay my baker's and butcher's bills。 The town of Ottawa lies between two waterfalls。 The upper one； or Rideau Fall； is formed by the confluence of a small river with the larger one； and the lower falldesignated as lower because it is at the foot of the hill； though it is higher up the Ottawa River is called the Chaudiere； from its resemblance to a boiling kettle。 This is on the Ottawa River itself。 The Rideau Fall is divided into two branches； thus forming an island in the middle； as is the case at Niagara。 It is pretty enough； and worth visiting even were it farther from the town than it is； but by those who have hunted out many cataracts in their travels it will not be considered very remarkable。 The Chaudiere Fall I did think very remarkable。 It is of trifling depth； being formed by fractures in the rocky bed of the river； but the waters have so cut the rock as to create beautiful forms in the rush which they make in their descent。 Strangers are told to look at these falls from the suspension bridge； and it is well that they should do so。 But； in so looking at them； they obtain but a very small part of their effect。 On the Ottawa side of the bridge is a brewery； which brewery is surrounded by a huge timber…yard。 This timber yard I found to be very muddy； and the passing and repassing through it is a work of trouble； but nevertheless let the traveler by all means make his way through the mud； and scramble over the timber； and cross the plank bridges which traverse the streams of the saw…mills； and thus take himself to the outer edge of the wood…work over the water。 If he will then seat himself； about the hour of sunset； he will see the Chaudiere Fall aright。 But the glory of Ottawa will beand； indeed； already isthe set of public buildings which is now being erected on the rock which guards； as it were； the town from the river。 How much of the excellence of these buildings may be due to the taste of Sir Edmund Head； the late governor； I do not know。 That he has greatly interested himself in the subject； is well known； and； as the style of the different buildings is so much alike as to make one whole； though the designs of different architects were selected and these different architects employed； I imagine that considerable alterations must have been made in the original drawings。 There are three buildings； forming three sides of a quadrangle； but they are not joined； the vacant spaces at the corner being of considerable extent。 The fourth side of the quadrangle opens upon one of the principal streets of the town。 The center building is intended for the Houses of Parliament； and the two side buildings for the government offices。 Of the first Messrs。 Fuller and Jones are the architects； and of the latter Messrs。 Stent and Laver。 I did not have the pleasure of meeting any of these gentlemen； but I take upon myself to say that； as regards purity of art and manliness of conception； their joint work is entitled to the very highest praise。 How far the buildings may be well arranged for the required purposeshow far they maybe economical in construction or specially adapted to the severe climate of the countryI cannot say； but I have no hesitation in risking my reputation for judgment in giving my warmest commendation to them as regards beauty of outline and truthful nobility of detail。 I shall not attempt to describe them； for I should interest no one in doing so； and should certainly fail in my attempt to make any reader understand me。 I know no modern Gothic purer of its kind or less sullied with fictitious ornamentation。 Our own Houses of Parliament are very fine； but it is； I believe； generally felt that the ornamentation is too minute； and； moreover； it may be questioned whether perpendicular Gothic is capable of the highest nobility which architecture can achieve。 I do not pretend to say that these Canadian public buildings will reach that highest nobility。 They must be finished before any final judgment can be pronounced； but I do feel very certain that that final judgment will be greatly in their favor。 The total frontage of the quadrangle； including the side buildings； is 1200 feet； that of the center buildings is 475。 As I have said before； 225；000 pounds have already been expended； and it is estimated that the total cost； including the arrangement and decoration of the ground behind the building and in the quadrangle； will be half a million。 The buildings front upon what will； I suppose； be the principal street of Ottawa； and they stand upon a rock looking immediately down upon the river。 In this way they are blessed with a site peculiarly happy。 Indeed； I cannot at this moment remember any so much so。 The Castle of Edinburgh stands very well； but then； like many other castles； it stands on a summit by itself； and can only be approached by a steep ascent。 These buildings at Ottawa； though they look down from a grand eminence immediately on the river； are approached from the town without any ascent。 The rock； though it falls almost precipitously down to the water is covered with trees and shrubs； and then the river that runs beneath is rapid； bright； and picturesque in the irregularity of all its lines。 The view from the back of the library； up to the Chaudiere Falls and to the saw…mills by which they are surrounded； is very lovely。 So that I will say again that I know no site for such a set of buildings so happy as regards both beauty and grandeur。 It is intended that the library； of which the walls were only ten feet above the ground when I was there； shall be an octagonal building； in shape and outward character like the chapter house of a cathedral。 This structure will； I presume； be surrounded by gravel walks and green sward。 Of the library there is a large model showing all the details of the architecture； and if that model be ultimately followed； this building alone will be worthy of a visit from English tourists。 To me it was very wonderful to find such an edifice in the course of erection on the banks of a wild river almost at the back of Canada。 But if ever I visit Canada again； it will be to see those buildings when completed。 And now； like all friendly critics； having bestowed my modicum of praise； I must proceed to find fault。 I cannot bring myself to administer my sugar…plum without adding to it some bitter morsel by way of antidote。 The building to the left of the quadrangle as it is entered is deficient in length； and on that account appears mean to the eye。 The two side buildings are brought up close to the street； so that each has a frontage immediately on the street。 Such being the case； they should be of equal length； or nearly so。 Had the center of one fronted the center of the other； a difference of length might have been allowed； but in this case the side front of the smaller one would not have reached the street。 As it is； the space between the main building and the smaller wing is disproportionably large； and the very distance at which it stands will； I fear； give to it that appearance of meanness of which I have spoken。 The clerk of the works； who explained to me with much courtesy the plan of the buildings； stated that the design of this wing was capable of elongation； and had been expressly prep
