north america-1-第18章
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r； it is still a road； for it is passable for sledges。 I have seldom been in a house that seemed so remote from the world； and so little within reach of doctors； parsons； or butchers。 Bakers in this country are not required； as all persons make their own bread。 But in spite of its position the hotel is well kept； and on the whole we were more comfortable there than at any other inn in Lower Canada。 The Mountain house is but five miles from the borders of Vermont； in which State the head of the lake lies。 The steamer which brought us runs on to Newport； or rather from Newport to Magog and back again。 And Newport is in Vermont。 The one thing to be done at the Mountain House is the ascent of the mountain called the Owl's head。 The world there offers nothing else of active enterprise to the traveler； unless fishing be considered an active enterprise。 I am not capable of fishing； therefore we resolved on going up the Owl's Head。 To dine in the middle of the day is absolutely imperative at these hotels； and thus we were driven to select either the morning or the afternoon。 Evening lights we declared were the best for all views； and therefore we decided on the afternoon。 It is but two miles； but then； as we were told more than once by those who had spoken to us on the subject； those two miles are not like other miles。 〃I doubt if the lady can do it；〃 one man said to me。 I asked if ladies did not sometimes go up。 〃Yes； young women do； at times；〃 he said。 After that my wife resolved that she would see the top of the Owl's Head； or die in the attempt； and so we started。 They never think of sending a guide with one in these places； whereas in Europe a traveler is not allowed to go a step without one。 When I asked for one to show us the way up Mount Washington； I was told that there were no idle boys about that place。 The path was indicated to us； and off we started with high hopes。 I have been up many mountains； and have climbed some that were perhaps somewhat dangerous in their ascent。 In climbing the Owl's Head there is no danger。 One is closed in by thick trees the whole way。 But I doubt if I ever went up a steeper ascent。 It was very hard work； but we were not beaten。 We reached the top； and there sitting down； thoroughly enjoyed our victory。 It was then half… past five o'clock； and the sun was not yet absolutely sinking。 It did not seem to give us any warning that we should especially require its aid； and； as the prospect below us was very lovely； we remained there for a quarter of an hour。 The ascent of the Owl's Head is certainly a thing to do； and I still think； in spite of our following misfortune； that it is a thing to do late in the afternoon。 The view down upon the lakes and the forests around； and on the wooded hills below； is wonderfully lovely。 I never was on a mountain which gave me a more perfect command of all the country round。 But as we arose to descend we saw a little cloud coming toward us from over Newport。 The little cloud came on with speed； and we had hardly freed ourselves from the rocks of the summit before we were surrounded by rain。 As the rain became thicker； we were surrounded by darkness also； or； if not by darkness； by so dim a light that it became a task to find our path。 I still thought that the daylight had not gone； and that as we descended； and so escaped from the cloud； we should find light enough to guide us。 But it was not so。 The rain soon became a matter of indifference； and so also did the mud and briers beneath our feet。 Even the steepness of the way was almost forgotten as we endeavored to thread our path through the forest before it should become impossible to discern the track。 A dog had followed us up； and though the beast would not stay with us so as to be our guide； he returned ever and anon； and made us aware of his presence by dashing by us。 I may confess now that I became much frightened。 We were wet through； and a night out in the forest would have been unpleasant to us。 At last I did utterly lose the track； it had become quite dark； so dark that we could hardly see each other。 We had succeeded in getting down the steepest and worst part of the mountain； but we were still among dense forest trees； and up to our knees in mud。 But the people at the Mountain house were Christians； and men with lanterns were sent hallooing after us through the dark night。 When we were thus found we were not many yards from the path； but unfortunately on the wrong side of a stream。 Through that we waded； and then made our way in safety to the inn。 In spite of which misadventure I advise all travelers in Lower Canada to go up the Owl's Head。 On the following day we crossed the lake to Georgeville； and drove around another lake called the Massawhippi back to Sherbrooke。 This was all very well； for it showed us a part of the country which is comparatively well tilled； and has been long settled； but the Massawhippi itself is not worth a visit。 The route by which we returned occupies a longer time than the other； and is more costly； as it must be made in a hired vehicle。 The people here are quiet； orderly； and I should say a little slow。 It is manifest that a strong feeling against the Northern States has lately sprung up。 This is much to be deprecated； but I cannot but say that it is natural。 It is not that the Canadians have any special secession feelings； or that they have entered with peculiar warmth into the questions of American politics； but they have been vexed and acerbated by the braggadocio of the Northern States。 They constantly hear that they are to be invaded； and translated into citizens of the Union； that British rule is to be swept off the continent； and that the star…spangled banner is to be waved over them in pity。 The star…spangled banner is in fact a fine flag； and has waved to some purpose； but those who live near it； and not under it； fancy that they hear too much of it。 At the present moment the loyalty of both the Canadas to Great Britain is beyond all question。 From all that I can hear； I doubt whether this feeling in the provinces was ever so strong； and under such circumstances American abuse of England and American braggadocio is more than usually distasteful。 All this abuse and all this braggadocio come to Canada from the Northern States； and therefore the Southern cause is at the present moment the more popular with them。 I have said that the Canadians hereabouts are somewhat slow。 As we were driving back to Sherbrooke it became necessary that we should rest for an hour or so in the middle of the day； and for this purpose we stopped at a village inn。 It was a large house； in which there appeared to be three public sitting…rooms of ample size； one of which was occupied as the bar。 In this there were congregated some six or seven men； seated in arm…chairs round a stove； and among these I placed myself。 No one spoke a word either to me or to any one else。 No one smoked； and no one read； nor did they even whittle sticks。 I asked a question； first of one and then of another； and was answered with monosyllables。 So I gave up any hope in that direction； and sat staring at the big stove in the middle of the room； as the others did。 Presently another stranger entered； having arrived in a wagon； as I had done。 He entered the room and sat down； addressing no one； and addressed by no one。 After awhile； however； he spoke。 〃Will there be any chance of dinner here？〃 he said。 〃I guess there'll be dinner by…and…by；〃 answered the landlord； and then there was silence for another ten minutes； during which the stranger stared at the stove。 〃Is that dinner any way ready？〃 he asked again。 〃I guess it is；〃 said the landlord。 And then the stranger went out to see after his dinner himself。 When we started； at the end of an hour； nobody said anything to us。 The driver 〃hitched〃 on the horses； as they call it； and we started on our way； having been charged nothing for our accommodation。 That some profit arose from the horse provender is to be hoped。 On the following day we reached Montreal； which； as I have said before； is the commercial capital of the two Provinces。 This question of the capitals is at the present moment a subject of great interes
