north america-1-第17章
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streets are almost entirely of wood; as indeed seems to be general throughout Canada。 Wood is; of course; the cheapest material; and; though it may not be altogether good for such a purpose; it would not create animadversion if it were kept in tolerable order。 But in Quebec the paths are intolerably bad。 They are full of holes。 The boards are rotten; and worn in some places to dirt。 The nails have gone; and the broken planks go up and down under the feet; and in the dark they are absolutely dangerous。 But if the paths are bad; the road…ways are worse。 The street through the lower town along the quays is; I think; the most disgraceful thoroughfare I ever saw in any town。 I believe the whole of it; or at any rate a great portion; has been paved with wood; but the boards have been worked into mud; and the ground under the boards has been worked into holes; till the street is more like the bottom of a filthy ditch than a road…way through one of the most thickly populated parts of a city。 Had Quebec in Wolfe's time been as it is now; Wolfe would have stuck in the mud between the river and the rock before he reached the point which he desired to climb。 In the upper town the roads are not as bad as they are below; but still they are very bad。 I was told that this arose from disputes among the municipal corporations。 Everything in Canada relating to roads; and a very great deal affecting the internal government of the people; is done by these municipalities。 It is made a subject of great boast in Canada that the communal authorities do carry on so large a part of the public business; and that they do it generally so well and at so cheap a rate。 I have nothing to say against this; and; as a whole; believe that the boast is true。 I must protest; however; that the streets of the greater citiesfor Montreal is nearly as bad as Quebecprove the rule by a very sad exception。 The municipalities of which I speak extend; I believe; to all Canadathe two provinces being divided into counties; and the counties subdivided into townships; to which; as a matter of course; the municipalities are attached。 From Quebec to Montreal there are two modes of travel。 There are the steamers up the St。 Lawrence; which; as all the world know; is; or at any rate hitherto has been; the high…road of the Canadas; and there is the Grand Trunk Railway。 Passengers choosing the latter go toward Portland as far as Richmond; and there join the main line of the road; passing from Richmond on to Montreal。 We learned while at Quebec that it behooved us not to leave the colony till we had seen the lake and mountains of Memphremagog; and; as we were clearly neglecting our duty with regard to the Saguenay; we felt bound to make such amends as lay in our power by deviating from our way to the lake above named。 In order to do this we were obliged to choose the railway; and to go back beyond Richmond to the station at Sherbrooke。 Sherbrooke is a large village on the confines of Canada; and; as it is on the railway; will no doubt become a large town。 It is very prettily situated on the meeting of two rivers; it has three or four churches; and intends to thrive。 It possesses two newspapers; of the prosperity of which I should be inclined to feel less assured。 The annual subscription to such a newspaper; published twice a week; is ten shillings。 A sale of a thousand copies is not considered bad。 Such a sale would produce 500 pounds a year; and this would; if entirely devoted to that purpose; give a moderate income to a gentleman qualified to conduct a newspaper。 But the paper and printing must cost something; and the capital invested should receive its proper remuneration。 And thensuch at least is the general ideathe getting together of news and the framing of intelligence is a costly operation。 I can only hope that all this is paid for by the advertisements; for I must trust that the editors do not receive less than the moderate sum above named。 At Sherbrooke we are still in Lower Canada。 Indeed; as regards distance; we are when there nearly as far removed from Upper Canada as at Quebec。 But the race of people here is very different。 The French population had made their way down into these townships before the English and American war broke out; but had not done so in great numbers。 The country was then very unapproachable; being far to the south of the St。 Lawrence; and far also from…any great line of internal communication toward the Atlantic。 But; nevertheless; many settlers made their way in here from the Statesmen who preferred to live under British rule; and perhaps doubted the stability of the new order of things。 They or their children have remained here since; and; as the whole country has been opened up by the railway; many others have flocked in。 Thus a better class of people than the French hold possession of the larger farms; and are on the whole doing well。 I am told that many Americans are now coming here; driven over the borders from Maine; New Hampshire; and Vermont by fears of the war and the weight of taxation。 I do not think that fears of war or the paying of taxes drive many individuals away from home。 Men who would be so influenced have not the amount of foresight which would induce them to avoid such evils; or; at any rate; such fears would act slowly。 Laborers; however; will go where work is certain; where work is well paid; and where the wages to be earned will give plenty in return。 It may be that work will become scarce in the States; as it has done with those poor jewelers at Attleborough of whom we spoke; and that food will become dear。 If this be so; laborers from the States will no doubt find their way into Canada。 From Sherbrooke we went with the mails on a pair…horse wagon to Magog。 Cross…country mails are not interesting to the generality of readers; but I have a professional liking for them myself。 I have spent the best part of my life in looking after; and I hope in improving; such mails; and I always endeavor to do a stroke of work when I come across them。 I learned on this occasion that the conveyance of mails with a pair of horses; in Canada; costs little more than half what is paid for the same work in England with one horse; and something less than what is paid in Ireland; also for one horse。 But in Canada the average pace is only five miles an hour。 In Ireland it is seven; and the time is accurately kept; which does not seem to be the case in Canada。 In England the pace is eight miles an hour。 In Canada and in Ireland these conveyances carry passengers; but in England they are prohibited from doing so。 In Canada the vehicles are much better got up than they are in England; and the horses too look better。 Taking Ireland as a whole; they are more respectable in appearance there than in England。 From all which it appears that pace is the article that costs the highest price; and that appearance does not go for much in the bill。 In Canada the roads are very bad in comparison with the English or Irish roads; but; to make up for this; the price of forage is very low。 I have said that the cross…mail conveyances in Canada did not seem to be very closely bound as to time; but they are regulated by clock…work in comparison with some of them in the United States。 〃Are you going this morning?〃 I said to a mail…driver in Vermont。 〃I thought you always started in the evening。〃 〃Wa'll; I guess I do; but it rained some last night; so I jist stayed at home。〃 I do not know that I ever felt more shocked in my life; and I could hardly keep my tongue off the man。 The mails; however; would have paid no respect to me in Vermont; and I was obliged to walk away crest…fallen。 We went with the mails from Sherbrooke to a village called Magog; at the outlet of the lake; and from thence by a steamer up the lake; to a solitary hotel called the Mountain House; which is built at the foot of the mountain; on the shore; and which is surrounded on every side by thick forest。 There is no road within two miles of the house。 The lake therefore is the only highway; and that is frozen up for four months in the year。 When frozen; however; it is still a road; for it is passable for sledges。 I have seldom been in a house that seemed so