north america-1-第13章
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that great city。 That the Cunard line of steamers will bring him safely back to Liverpool in about eleven days； I need not tell to any Englishman； or； as I believe； to any American。 So much； in the spirit of a guide； I vouchsafe to all who are willing to take my counselthereby anticipating Murray； and leaving these few pages as a legacy to him or to his collaborateurs。 I cannot say that I like the hotels in those parts； or； indeed； the mode of life at American hotels in general。 In order that I may not unjustly defame them； I will commence these observations by declaring that they are cheap to those who choose to practice the economy which they encourage； that the viands are profuse in quantity and wholesome in quality； that the attendance is quick and unsparing； and that travelers are never annoyed by that grasping； greedy hunger and thirst after francs and shillings which disgrace； in Europe； many English and many continental inns。 All this is； as must be admitted； great praise； and yet I do not like the American hotels。 One is in a free country； and has come from a country in which one has been brought up to hug one's chainsso at least the English traveler is constantly assuredand yet in an American inn one can never do as one likes。 A terrific gong sounds early in the morning； breaking one's sweet slumbers； and then a second gong； sounding some thirty minutes later； makes you understand that you must proceed to breakfast whether you be dressed or no。 You certainly can go on with your toilet； and obtain your meal after half an hour's delay。 Nobody actually scolds you for so doing； but the breakfast is； as they say in this country； 〃through。〃 You sit down alone； and the attendant stands immediately over you。 Probably there are two so standing。 They fill your cup the instant it is empty。 They tender you fresh food before that which has disappeared from your plate has been swallowed。 They begrudge you no amount that you can eat or drink； but they begrudge you a single moment that you sit there neither eating nor drinking。 This is your fate if you're too late； and therefore； as a rule； you are not late。 In that case； you form one of a long row of eaters who proceed through their work with a solid energy that is past all praise。 It is wrong to say that Americans will not talk at their meals。 I never met but few who would not talk to me； at any rate till I got to the far West； but I have rarely found that they would address me first。 Then the dinner comes earlyat least it always does so in New Englandand the ceremony is much of the same kind。 You came there to eat； and the food is pressed upon you ad nauseam。 But； as far as one can see； there is no drinking。 In these days； I am quite aware that drinking has become improper； even in England。 We are apt； at home； to speak of wine as a thing tabooed； wondering how our fathers lived and swilled。 I believe that； as a fact； we drink as much as they did； but； nevertheless； that is our theory。 I confess； however； that I like wine。 It is very wicked； but it seems to me that my dinner goes down better with a glass of sherry than without it。 As a rule； I always did get it at hotels in America。 But I had no comfort with it。 Sherry they do not understand at all。 Of course I am only speaking of hotels。 Their claret they get exclusively from Mr。 Gladstone； and； looking at the quality； have a right to quarrel even with Mr。 Gladstone's price。 But it is not the quality of the wine that I hereby intend to subject to ignominy so much as the want of any opportunity for drinking it。 After dinner； if all that I hear be true； the gentlemen occasionally drop into the hotel bar and 〃liquor up。〃 Or rather this is not done specially after dinner； but； without prejudice to the hour； at any time that may be found desirable。 I also have 〃liquored up；〃 but I cannot say that I enjoy the process。 I do not intend hereby to accuse Americans of drinking much； but I maintain that what they do drink； they drink in the most uncomfortable manner that the imagination can devise。 The greatest luxury at an English inn is one's tea； one's fire； and one's book。 Such an arrangement is not practicable at an American hotel。 Tea； like breakfast； is a great meal； at which meat should be eaten； generally with the addition of much jelly； jam； and sweet preserve； but no person delays over his teacup。 I love to have my teacup emptied and filled with gradual pauses； so that time for oblivion may accrue； and no exact record be taken。 No such meal is known at American hotels。 It is possible to hire a separate room； and have one's meals served in it； but in doing so a man runs counter to all the institutions of the country； and a woman does so equally。 A stranger does not wish to be viewed askance by all around him； and the rule which holds that men at Rome should do as Romans do； if true anywhere； is true in America。 Therefore I say that in an American inn one can never do as one pleases。 In what I have here said I do not intend to speak of hotels in the largest cities； such as Boston or New York。 At them meals are served in the public room separately； and pretty nearly at any or at all hours of the day； but at them also the attendant stands over the unfortunate eater and drives him。 The guest feels that he is controlled by laws adapted to the usages of the Medes and Persians。 He is not the master on the occasion； but the slavea slave well treated； and fattened up to the full endurance of humanity； but yet a slave。 From Gorham we went on to Island Pond； a station on the same Canada Trunk Railway； on a Saturday evening； and were forced by the circumstances of the line to pass a melancholy Sunday at the place。 The cars do not run on Sundays； and run but once a day on other days over the whole line； so that； in fact； the impediment to traveling spreads over two days。 Island Pond is a lake with an island in it； and the place which has taken the name is a small village； about ten years old； standing in the midst of uncut forests； and has been created by the railway。 In ten years more there will no doubt be a spreading town at Island Pond； the forests will recede； and men； rushing out from the crowded cities； will find here food； and space； and wealth。 For myself； I never remain long in such a spot without feeling thankful that it has not been my mission to be a pioneer of civilization。 The farther that I got away from Boston the less strong did I find the feeling of anger against England。 There； as I have said before； there was a bitter animosity against the mother country in that she had shown no open sympathy with the North。 In Maine and New Hampshire I did not find this to be the case to any violent degree。 Men spoke of the war as openly as they did at Boston； and； in speaking to me； generally connected England with the subject。 But they did so simply to ask questions as to England's policy。 What will she do for cotton when her operatives are really pressed？ Will she break the blockade？ Will she insist on a right to trade with Charleston and new Orleans？ I always answered that she would insist on no such right； if that right were denied to others and the denial enforced。 England； I took upon myself to say； would not break a veritable blockade； let her be driven to what shifts she might in providing for her operatives。 〃Ah！ that's what we fear；〃 a very stanch patriot said to me； if words may be taken as a proof of stauchness。 〃If England allies herself with the Southerners； all our trouble is for nothing。〃 It was impossible not to feel that all that was said was complimentary to England。 It is her sympathy that the Northern men desire； to her co…operation that they would willingly trust； on her honesty that they would choose to depend。 It is the same feeling whether it shows itself in anger or in curiosity。 An American； whether he be embarked in politics； in literature； or in commerce； desires English admiration； English appreciation of his energy； and English encouragement。 The anger of Boston is but a sign of its affectionate friendliness。 What feeling is so hot as that of a friend when his dearest friend refuses to share his quarrel or to sympathize in his wrongs！ To my thinking； the men of
