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第8章

a journey to-第8章

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upon the road。  It is now a house of entertainment for passengers;
and we found it not ill stocked with provisions。



FALL OF FIERS



Towards evening we crossed; by a bridge; the river which makes the
celebrated fall of Fiers。  The country at the bridge strikes the
imagination with all the gloom and grandeur of Siberian solitude。
The way makes a flexure; and the mountains; covered with trees;
rise at once on the left hand and in the front。  We desired our
guides to shew us the fall; and dismounting; clambered over very
rugged crags; till I began to wish that our curiosity might have
been gratified with less trouble and danger。  We came at last to a
place where we could overlook the river; and saw a channel torn; as
it seems; through black piles of stone; by which the stream is
obstructed and broken; till it comes to a very steep descent; of
such dreadful depth; that we were naturally inclined to turn aside
our eyes。

But we visited the place at an unseasonable time; and found it
divested of its dignity and terror。  Nature never gives every thing
at once。  A long continuance of dry weather; which made the rest of
the way easy and delightful; deprived us of the pleasure expected
from the fall of Fiers。  The river having now no water but what the
springs supply; showed us only a swift current; clear and shallow;
fretting over the asperities of the rocky bottom; and we were left
to exercise our thoughts; by endeavouring to conceive the effect of
a thousand streams poured from the mountains into one channel;
struggling for expansion in a narrow passage; exasperated by rocks
rising in their way; and at last discharging all their violence of
waters by a sudden fall through the horrid chasm。

The way now grew less easy; descending by an uneven declivity; but
without either dirt or danger。  We did not arrive at Fort Augustus
till it was late。  Mr。 Boswell; who; between his father's merit and
his own; is sure of reception wherever he comes; sent a servant
before to beg admission and entertainment for that night。  Mr。
Trapaud; the governor; treated us with that courtesy which is so
closely connected with the military character。  He came out to meet
us beyond the gates; and apologized that; at so late an hour; the
rules of a garrison suffered him to give us entrance only at the
postern。



FORT AUGUSTUS



In the morning we viewed the fort; which is much less than that of
St。 George; and is said to be commanded by the neighbouring hills。
It was not long ago taken by the Highlanders。  But its situation
seems well chosen for pleasure; if not for strength; it stands at
the head of the lake; and; by a sloop of sixty tuns; is supplied
from Inverness with great convenience。

We were now to cross the Highlands towards the western coast; and
to content ourselves with such accommodations; as a way so little
frequented could afford。  The journey was not formidable; for it
was but of two days; very unequally divided; because the only
house; where we could be entertained; was not further off than a
third of the way。  We soon came to a high hill; which we mounted by
a military road; cut in traverses; so that as we went upon a higher
stage; we saw the baggage following us below in a contrary
direction。  To make this way; the rock has been hewn to a level
with labour that might have broken the perseverance of a Roman
legion。

The country is totally denuded of its wood; but the stumps both of
oaks and firs; which are still found; shew that it has been once a
forest of large timber。  I do not remember that we saw any animals;
but we were told that; in the mountains; there are stags; roebucks;
goats and rabbits。

We did not perceive that this tract was possessed by human beings;
except that once we saw a corn field; in which a lady was walking
with some gentlemen。  Their house was certainly at no great
distance; but so situated that we could not descry it。

Passing on through the dreariness of solitude; we found a party of
soldiers from the fort; working on the road; under the
superintendence of a serjeant。  We told them how kindly we had been
treated at the garrison; and as we were enjoying the benefit of
their labours; begged leave to shew our gratitude by a small
present。



ANOCH



Early in the afternoon we came to Anoch; a village in Glenmollison
of three huts; one of which is distinguished by a chimney。  Here we
were to dine and lodge; and were conducted through the first room;
that had the chimney; into another lighted by a small glass window。
The landlord attended us with great civility; and told us what he
could give us to eat and drink。  I found some books on a shelf;
among which were a volume or more of Prideaux's Connection。

This I mentioned as something unexpected; and perceived that I did
not please him。  I praised the propriety of his language; and was
answered that I need not wonder; for he had learned it by grammar。

By subsequent opportunities of observation; I found that my host's
diction had nothing peculiar。  Those Highlanders that can speak
English; commonly speak it well; with few of the words; and little
of the tone by which a Scotchman is distinguished。  Their language
seems to have been learned in the army or the navy; or by some
communication with those who could give them good examples of
accent and pronunciation。  By their Lowland neighbours they would
not willingly be taught; for they have long considered them as a
mean and degenerate race。  These prejudices are wearing fast away;
but so much of them still remains; that when I asked a very learned
minister in the islands; which they considered as their most savage
clans:  'Those;' said he; 'that live next the Lowlands。'

As we came hither early in the day; we had time sufficient to
survey the place。  The house was built like other huts of loose
stones; but the part in which we dined and slept was lined with
turf and wattled with twigs; which kept the earth from falling。
Near it was a garden of turnips and a field of potatoes。  It stands
in a glen; or valley; pleasantly watered by a winding river。  But
this country; however it may delight the gazer or amuse the
naturalist; is of no great advantage to its owners。  Our landlord
told us of a gentleman; who possesses lands; eighteen Scotch miles
in length; and three in breadth; a space containing at least a
hundred square English miles。  He has raised his rents; to the
danger of depopulating his farms; and he fells his timber; and by
exerting every art of augmentation; has obtained an yearly revenue
of four hundred pounds; which for a hundred square miles is three
halfpence an acre。

Some time after dinner we were surprised by the entrance of a young
woman; not inelegant either in mien or dress; who asked us whether
we would have tea。  We found that she was the daughter of our host;
and desired her to make it。  Her conversation; like her appearance;
was gentle and pleasing。  We knew that the girls of the Highlands
are all gentlewomen; and treated her with great respect; which she
received as customary and due; and was neither elated by it; nor
confused; but repaid my civilities without embarassment; and told
me how much I honoured her country by coming to survey it。

She had been at Inverness to gain the common female qualifications;
and had; like her father; the English pronunciation。  I presented
her with a book; which I happened to have about me; and should not
be pleased to think that she forgets me。

In the evening the soldiers; whom we had passed on the road; came
to spend at our inn the little money that we had given them。  They
had the true military impatience of coin in their pockets; and had
marched at least six miles to find the first place where liquor
could be bought。  Having never been before in a place so wild and
unfrequented; I was glad of their arrival; because I knew that we
had made them friends; and to gain still more of their good will;
we went to them; where they were carousing in the barn; and added
something to our former gift。  All that we gave was not much; but
it detained them in the barn; either merry or quarrelling; the
whole night; and in the mor

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