a journey to-第38章
按键盘上方向键 ← 或 → 可快速上下翻页,按键盘上的 Enter 键可回到本书目录页,按键盘上方向键 ↑ 可回到本页顶部!
————未阅读完?加入书签已便下次继续阅读!
Norwegian or Irish princes were reposited in this venerable
enclosure。 But by whom the subterraneous vaults are peopled is now
utterly unknown。 The graves are very numerous; and some of them
undoubtedly contain the remains of men; who did not expect to be so
soon forgotten。
Not far from this awful ground; may be traced the garden of the
monastery: the fishponds are yet discernible; and the aqueduct;
which supplied them; is still in use。
There remains a broken building; which is called the Bishop's
house; I know not by what authority。 It was once the residence of
some man above the common rank; for it has two stories and a
chimney。 We were shewn a chimney at the other end; which was only
a nich; without perforation; but so much does antiquarian
credulity; or patriotick vanity prevail; that it was not much more
safe to trust the eye of our instructor than the memory。
There is in the Island one house more; and only one; that has a
chimney: we entered it; and found it neither wanting repair nor
inhabitants; but to the farmers; who now possess it; the chimney is
of no great value; for their fire was made on the floor; in the
middle of the room; and notwithstanding the dignity of their
mansion; they rejoiced; like their neighbours; in the comforts of
smoke。
It is observed; that ecclesiastical colleges are always in the most
pleasant and fruitful places。 While the world allowed the monks
their choice; it is surely no dishonour that they chose well。 This
Island is remarkably fruitful。 The village near the churches is
said to contain seventy families; which; at five in a family; is
more than a hundred inhabitants to a mile。 There are perhaps other
villages: yet both corn and cattle are annually exported。
But the fruitfulness of Iona is now its whole prosperity。 The
inhabitants are remarkably gross; and remarkably neglected: I know
not if they are visited by any Minister。 The Island; which was
once the metropolis of learning and piety; has now no school for
education; nor temple for worship; only two inhabitants that can
speak English; and not one that can write or read。
The people are of the clan of Maclean; and though Sir Allan had not
been in the place for many years; he was received with all the
reverence due to their Chieftain。 One of them being sharply
reprehended by him; for not sending him some rum; declared after
his departure; in Mr。 Boswell's presence; that he had no design of
disappointing him; 'for;' said he; 'I would cut my bones for him;
and if he had sent his dog for it; he should have had it。'
When we were to depart; our boat was left by the ebb at a great
distance from the water; but no sooner did we wish it afloat; than
the islanders gathered round it; and; by the union of many hands;
pushed it down the beach; every man who could contribute his help
seemed to think himself happy in the opportunity of being; for a
moment; useful to his Chief。
We now left those illustrious ruins; by which Mr。 Boswell was much
affected; nor would I willingly be thought to have looked upon them
without some emotion。 Perhaps; in the revolutions of the world;
Iona may be sometime again the instructress of the Western Regions。
It was no long voyage to Mull; where; under Sir Allan's protection;
we landed in the evening; and were entertained for the night by Mr。
Maclean; a Minister that lives upon the coast; whose elegance of
conversation; and strength of judgment; would make him conspicuous
in places of greater celebrity。 Next day we dined with Dr。
Maclean; another physician; and then travelled on to the house of a
very powerful Laird; Maclean of Lochbuy; for in this country every
man's name is Maclean。
Where races are thus numerous; and thus combined; none but the
Chief of a clan is addressed by his name。 The Laird of Dunvegan is
called Macleod; but other gentlemen of the same family are
denominated by the places where they reside; as Raasa; or Talisker。
The distinction of the meaner people is made by their Christian
names。 In consequence of this practice; the late Laird of
Macfarlane; an eminent genealogist; considered himself as
disrespectfully treated; if the common addition was applied to him。
Mr。 Macfarlane; said he; may with equal propriety be said to many;
but I; and I only; am Macfarlane。
Our afternoon journey was through a country of such gloomy
desolation; that Mr。 Boswell thought no part of the Highlands
equally terrifick; yet we came without any difficulty; at evening;
to Lochbuy; where we found a true Highland Laird; rough and
haughty; and tenacious of his dignity; who; hearing my name;
inquired whether I was of the Johnstons of Glencroe; or of
Ardnamurchan。
Lochbuy has; like the other insular Chieftains; quitted the castle
that sheltered his ancestors; and lives near it; in a mansion not
very spacious or splendid。 I have seen no houses in the Islands
much to be envied for convenience or magnificence; yet they bare
testimony to the progress of arts and civility; as they shew that
rapine and surprise are no longer dreaded; and are much more
commodious than the ancient fortresses。
The castles of the Hebrides; many of which are standing; and many
ruined; were always built upon points of land; on the margin of the
sea。 For the choice of this situation there must have been some
general reason; which the change of manners has left in obscurity。
They were of no use in the days of piracy; as defences of the
coast; for it was equally accessible in other places。 Had they
been sea…marks or light…houses; they would have been of more use to
the invader than the natives; who could want no such directions of
their own waters: for a watch…tower; a cottage on a hill would
have been better; as it would have commanded a wider view。
If they be considered merely as places of retreat; the situation
seems not well chosen; for the Laird of an Island is safest from
foreign enemies in the center; on the coast he might be more
suddenly surprised than in the inland parts; and the invaders; if
their enterprise miscarried; might more easily retreat。 Some
convenience; however; whatever it was; their position on the shore
afforded; for uniformity of practice seldom continues long without
good reason。
A castle in the Islands is only a single tower of three or four
stories; of which the walls are sometimes eight or nine feet thick;
with narrow windows; and close winding stairs of stone。 The top
rises in a cone; or pyramid of stone; encompassed by battlements。
The intermediate floors are sometimes frames of timber; as in
common houses; and sometimes arches of stone; or alternately stone
and timber; so that there was very little danger from fire。 In the
center of every floor; from top to bottom; is the chief room; of no
great extent; round which there are narrow cavities; or recesses;
formed by small vacuities; or by a double wall。 I know not whether
there be ever more than one fire…place。 They had not capacity to
contain many people; or much provision; but their enemies could
seldom stay to blockade them; for if they failed in the first
attack; their next care was to escape。
The walls were always too strong to be shaken by such desultory
hostilities; the windows were too narrow to be entered; and the
battlements too high to be scaled。 The only danger was at the
gates; over which the wall was built with a square cavity; not
unlike a chimney; continued to the top。 Through this hollow the
defendants let fall stones upon those who attempted to break the
gate; and poured down water; perhaps scalding water; if the attack
was made with fire。 The castle of Lochbuy was secured by double
doors; of which the outer was an iron grate。
In every castle is a well and a dungeon。 The use of the well is
evident。 The dungeon is a deep subterraneous cavity; walled on the
sides; and arched on the top; into which the descent is through a
narrow door; by a ladder or a rope; so that it seems impossible to
escape; when the rope or ladder is drawn up。 The dungeon was; I
suppose; in war; a prison for such captives as were treated with
severity; and; in peace; for such delinquents as had committed
crime