a journey to-第34章
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considered as a portion； and called Macalive cattle； of which the
father has the produce； but is supposed not to have the full
property； but to owe the same number to the child； as a portion to
the daughter； or a stock for the son。
Children continue with the fosterer perhaps six years； and cannot；
where this is the practice； be considered as burdensome。 The
fosterer； if he gives four cows； receives likewise four； and has；
while the child continues with him； grass for eight without rent；
with half the calves； and all the milk； for which he pays only four
cows when he dismisses his Dalt； for that is the name for a foster
child。
Fosterage is； I believe； sometimes performed upon more liberal
terms。 Our friend； the young Laird of Col； was fostered by
Macsweyn of Grissipol。 Macsweyn then lived a tenant to Sir James
Macdonald in the Isle of Sky； and therefore Col； whether he sent
him cattle or not； could grant him no land。 The Dalt； however； at
his return； brought back a considerable number of Macalive cattle；
and of the friendship so formed there have been good effects。 When
Macdonald raised his rents； Macsweyn was； like other tenants；
discontented； and； resigning his farm； removed from Sky to Col； and
was established at Grissipol。
These observations we made by favour of the contrary wind that
drove us to Col； an Island not often visited； for there is not much
to amuse curiosity； or to attract avarice。
The ground has been hitherto； I believe； used chiefly for
pasturage。 In a district； such as the eye can command； there is a
general herdsman； who knows all the cattle of the neighbourhood；
and whose station is upon a hill； from which he surveys the lower
grounds； and if one man's cattle invade another's grass； drives
them back to their own borders。 But other means of profit begin to
be found； kelp is gathered and burnt； and sloops are loaded with
the concreted ashes。 Cultivation is likely to be improved by the
skill and encouragement of the present heir； and the inhabitants of
those obscure vallies will partake of the general progress of life。
The rents of the parts which belong to the Duke of Argyle； have
been raised from fifty…five to one hundred and five pounds； whether
from the land or the sea I cannot tell。 The bounties of the sea
have lately been so great； that a farm in Southuist has risen in
ten years from a rent of thirty pounds to one hundred and eighty。
He who lives in Col； and finds himself condemned to solitary meals；
and incommunicable reflection； will find the usefulness of that
middle order of Tacksmen； which some who applaud their own wisdom
are wishing to destroy。 Without intelligence man is not social； he
is only gregarious； and little intelligence will there be； where
all are constrained to daily labour； and every mind must wait upon
the hand。
After having listened for some days to the tempest； and wandered
about the Island till our curiosity was satisfied； we began to
think about our departure。 To leave Col in October was not very
easy。 We however found a sloop which lay on the coast to carry
kelp； and for a price which we thought levied upon our necessities；
the master agreed to carry us to Mull； whence we might readily pass
back to Scotland。
MULL
As we were to catch the first favourable breath； we spent the night
not very elegantly nor pleasantly in the vessel； and were landed
next day at Tobor Morar； a port in Mull； which appears to an
unexperienced eye formed for the security of ships； for its mouth
is closed by a small island； which admits them through narrow
channels into a bason sufficiently capacious。 They are indeed safe
from the sea； but there is a hollow between the mountains； through
which the wind issues from the land with very mischievous violence。
There was no danger while we were there； and we found several other
vessels at anchor； so that the port had a very commercial
appearance。
The young Laird of Col； who had determined not to let us lose his
company； while there was any difficulty remaining； came over with
us。 His influence soon appeared； for he procured us horses； and
conducted us to the house of Doctor Maclean； where we found very
kind entertainment； and very pleasing conversation。 Miss Maclean；
who was born； and had been bred at Glasgow； having removed with her
father to Mull； added to other qualifications； a great knowledge of
the Earse language； which she had not learned in her childhood； but
gained by study； and was the only interpreter of Earse poetry that
I could ever find。
The Isle of Mull is perhaps in extent the third of the Hebrides。
It is not broken by waters； nor shot into promontories； but is a
solid and compact mass； of breadth nearly equal to its length。 Of
the dimensions of the larger Islands； there is no knowledge
approaching to exactness。 I am willing to estimate it as
containing about three hundred square miles。
Mull had suffered like Sky by the black winter of seventy…one； in
which； contrary to all experience； a continued frost detained the
snow eight weeks upon the ground。 Against a calamity never known；
no provision had been made； and the people could only pine in
helpless misery。 One tenant was mentioned； whose cattle perished
to the value of three hundred pounds； a loss which probably more
than the life of man is necessary to repair。 In countries like
these； the descriptions of famine become intelligible。 Where by
vigorous and artful cultivation of a soil naturally fertile； there
is commonly a superfluous growth both of grain and grass； where the
fields are crowded with cattle； and where every hand is able to
attract wealth from a distance； by making something that promotes
ease； or gratifies vanity； a dear year produces only a comparative
want； which is rather seen than felt； and which terminates commonly
in no worse effect； than that of condemning the lower orders of the
community to sacrifice a little luxury to convenience； or at most a
little convenience to necessity。
But where the climate is unkind； and the ground penurious； so that
the most fruitful years will produce only enough to maintain
themselves； where life unimproved； and unadorned； fades into
something little more than naked existence； and every one is busy
for himself； without any arts by which the pleasure of others may
be increased； if to the daily burden of distress any additional
weight be added； nothing remains but to despair and die。 In Mull
the disappointment of a harvest； or a murrain among the cattle；
cuts off the regular provision； and they who have no manufactures
can purchase no part of the superfluities of other countries。 The
consequence of a bad season is here not scarcity； but emptiness；
and they whose plenty； was barely a supply of natural and present
need； when that slender stock fails； must perish with hunger。
All travel has its advantages。 If the passenger visits better
countries； he may learn to improve his own； and if fortune carries
him to worse； he may learn to enjoy it。
Mr。 Boswell's curiosity strongly impelled him to survey Iona； or
Icolmkil； which was to the early ages the great school of Theology；
and is supposed to have been the place of sepulture for the ancient
kings。 I； though less eager； did not oppose him。
That we might perform this expedition； it was necessary to traverse
a great part of Mull。 We passed a day at Dr。 Maclean's； and could
have been well contented to stay longer。 But Col provided us
horses； and we pursued our journey。 This was a day of
inconvenience； for the country is very rough； and my horse was but
little。 We travelled many hours through a tract； black and barren；
in which； however； there were the reliques of humanity； for we
found a ruined chapel in our way。
It is natural； in traversing this gloom of desolation； to inquire；
whether something may not be done to give nature a more cheerful
face； and whether those hills and moors that afford heath cannot
with a little care and labour bear something better？ The first
thought that occurs is to cover them with trees； for that in many
of these naked regions trees will grow； is evident； because stumps
and roots ar
