a journey to-第30章
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state of the whole Earse nation; the Lowlanders are at least as
ignorant as ourselves。 To be ignorant is painful; but it is
dangerous to quiet our uneasiness by the delusive opiate of hasty
persuasion。
But this is the age; in which those who could not read; have been
supposed to write; in which the giants of antiquated romance have
been exhibited as realities。 If we know little of the ancient
Highlanders; let us not fill the vacuity with Ossian。 If we had
not searched the Magellanick regions; let us however forbear to
people them with Patagons。
Having waited some days at Armidel; we were flattered at last with
a wind that promised to convey us to Mull。 We went on board a boat
that was taking in kelp; and left the Isle of Sky behind us。 We
were doomed to experience; like others; the danger of trusting to
the wind; which blew against us; in a short time; with such
violence; that we; being no seasoned sailors; were willing to call
it a tempest。 I was sea…sick and lay down。 Mr。 Boswell kept the
deck。 The master knew not well whither to go; and our difficulties
might perhaps have filled a very pathetick page; had not Mr。
Maclean of Col; who; with every other qualification which insular
life requires; is a very active and skilful mariner; piloted us
safe into his own harbour。
COL
In the morning we found ourselves under the Isle of Col; where we
landed; and passed the first day and night with Captain Maclean; a
gentleman who has lived some time in the East Indies; but having
dethroned no Nabob; is not too rich to settle in own country。
Next day the wind was fair; and we might have had an easy passage
to Mull; but having; contrarily to our own intention; landed upon a
new Island; we would not leave it wholly unexamined。 We therefore
suffered the vessel to depart without us; and trusted the skies for
another wind。
Mr。 Maclean of Col; having a very numerous family; has; for some
time past; resided at Aberdeen; that he may superintend their
education; and leaves the young gentleman; our friend; to govern
his dominions; with the full power of a Highland Chief。 By the
absence of the Laird's family; our entertainment was made more
difficult; because the house was in a great degree disfurnished;
but young Col's kindness and activity supplied all defects; and
procured us more than sufficient accommodation。
Here I first mounted a little Highland steed; and if there had been
many spectators; should have been somewhat ashamed of my figure in
the march。 The horses of the Islands; as of other barren
countries; are very low: they are indeed musculous and strong;
beyond what their size gives reason for expecting; but a bulky man
upon one of their backs makes a very disproportionate appearance。
From the habitation of Captain Maclean; we went to Grissipol; but
called by the way on Mr。 Hector Maclean; the Minister of Col; whom
we found in a hut; that is; a house of only one floor; but with
windows and chimney; and not inelegantly furnished。 Mr。 Maclean
has the reputation of great learning: he is seventy…seven years
old; but not infirm; with a look of venerable dignity; excelling
what I remember in any other man。
His conversation was not unsuitable to his appearance。 I lost some
of his good…will; by treating a heretical writer with more regard
than; in his opinion; a heretick could deserve。 I honoured his
orthodoxy; and did not much censure his asperity。 A man who has
settled his opinions; does not love to have the tranquillity of his
conviction disturbed; and at seventy…seven it is time to be in
earnest。
Mention was made of the Earse translation of the New Testament;
which has been lately published; and of which the learned Mr。
Macqueen of Sky spoke with commendation; but Mr。 Maclean said he
did not use it; because he could make the text more intelligible to
his auditors by an extemporary version。 From this I inferred; that
the language of the translation was not the language of the Isle of
Col。
He has no publick edifice for the exercise of his ministry; and can
officiate to no greater number; than a room can contain; and the
room of a hut is not very large。 This is all the opportunity of
worship that is now granted to the inhabitants of the Island; some
of whom must travel thither perhaps ten miles。 Two chapels were
erected by their ancestors; of which I saw the skeletons; which now
stand faithful witnesses of the triumph of the Reformation。
The want of churches is not the only impediment to piety: there is
likewise a want of Ministers。 A parish often contains more Islands
than one; and each Island can have the Minister only in its own
turn。 At Raasa they had; I think; a right to service only every
third Sunday。 All the provision made by the present ecclesiastical
constitution; for the inhabitants of about a hundred square miles;
is a prayer and sermon in a little room; once in three weeks: and
even this parsimonious distribution is at the mercy of the weather;
and in those Islands where the Minister does not reside; it is
impossible to tell how many weeks or months may pass without any
publick exercise of religion。
GRISSIPOL IN COL
After a short conversation with Mr。 Maclean; we went on to
Grissipol; a house and farm tenanted by Mr。 Macsweyn; where I saw
more of the ancient life of a Highlander; than I had yet found。
Mrs。 Macsweyn could speak no English; and had never seen any other
places than the Islands of Sky; Mull; and Col: but she was
hospitable and good…humoured; and spread her table with sufficient
liberality。 We found tea here; as in every other place; but our
spoons were of horn。
The house of Grissipol stands by a brook very clear and quick;
which is; I suppose; one of the most copious streams in the Island。
This place was the scene of an action; much celebrated in the
traditional history of Col; but which probably no two relaters will
tell alike。
Some time; in the obscure ages; Macneil of Barra married the Lady
Maclean; who had the Isle of Col for her jointure。 Whether Macneil
detained Col; when the widow was dead; or whether she lived so long
as to make her heirs impatient; is perhaps not now known。 The
younger son; called John Gerves; or John the Giant; a man of great
strength who was then in Ireland; either for safety; or for
education; dreamed of recovering his inheritance; and getting some
adventurers together; which; in those unsettled times; was not hard
to do; invaded Col。 He was driven away; but was not discouraged;
and collecting new followers; in three years came again with fifty
men。 In his way he stopped at Artorinish in Morvern; where his
uncle was prisoner to Macleod; and was then with his enemies in a
tent。 Maclean took with him only one servant; whom he ordered to
stay at the outside; and where he should see the tent pressed
outwards; to strike with his dirk; it being the intention of
Maclean; as any man provoked him; to lay hands upon him; and push
him back。 He entered the tent alone; with his Lochabar…axe in his
hand; and struck such terror into the whole assembly; that they
dismissed his uncle。
When he landed at Col; he saw the sentinel; who kept watch towards
the sea; running off to Grissipol; to give Macneil; who was there
with a hundred and twenty men; an account of the invasion。 He told
Macgill; one of his followers; that if he intercepted that
dangerous intelligence; by catching the courier; he would give him
certain lands in Mull。 Upon this promise; Macgill pursued the
messenger; and either killed; or stopped him; and his posterity;
till very lately; held the lands in Mull。
The alarm being thus prevented; he came unexpectedly upon Macneil。
Chiefs were in those days never wholly unprovided for an enemy。 A
fight ensued; in which one of their followers is said to have given
an extraordinary proof of activity; by bounding backwards over the
brook of Grissipol。 Macneil being killed; and many of his clan
destroyed; Maclean took possession of the Island; which the
Macneils attempted to conquer by another invasion; but were
defeated and repulsed。
Maclean; in his turn; invaded the estate of the Macneils; took