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第18章

a journey to-第18章

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by bushes; or some other cover。

These caves were represented to us as the cabins of the first rude
inhabitants; of which; however; I am by no means persuaded。  This
was so low; that no man could stand upright in it。  By their
construction they are all so narrow; that two can never pass along
them together; and being subterraneous; they must be always damp。
They are not the work of an age much ruder than the present; for
they are formed with as much art as the construction of a common
hut requires。  I imagine them to have been places only of
occasional use; in which the Islander; upon a sudden alarm; hid his
utensils; or his cloaths; and perhaps sometimes his wife and
children。

This cave we entered; but could not proceed the whole length; and
went away without knowing how far it was carried。  For this
omission we shall be blamed; as we perhaps have blamed other
travellers; but the day was rainy; and the ground was damp。  We had
with us neither spades nor pickaxes; and if love of ease surmounted
our desire of knowledge; the offence has not the invidiousness of
singularity。

Edifices; either standing or ruined; are the chief records of an
illiterate nation。  In some part of this journey; at no great
distance from our way; stood a shattered fortress; of which the
learned minister; to whose communication we are much indebted; gave
us an account。

Those; said he; are the walls of a place of refuge; built in the
time of James the Sixth; by Hugh Macdonald; who was next heir to
the dignity and fortune of his chief。  Hugh; being so near his
wish; was impatient of delay; and had art and influence sufficient
to engage several gentlemen in a plot against the Laird's life。
Something must be stipulated on both sides; for they would not dip
their hands in blood merely for Hugh's advancement。  The compact
was formerly written; signed by the conspirators; and placed in the
hands of one Macleod。

It happened that Macleod had sold some cattle to a drover; who; not
having ready money; gave him a bond for payment。  The debt was
discharged; and the bond re…demanded; which Macleod; who could not
read; intending to put into his hands; gave him the conspiracy。
The drover; when he had read the paper; delivered it privately to
Macdonald; who; being thus informed of his danger; called his
friends together; and provided for his safety。  He made a public
feast; and inviting Hugh Macdonald and his confederates; placed
each of them at the table between two men of known fidelity。  The
compact of conspiracy was then shewn; and every man confronted with
his own name。  Macdonald acted with great moderation。  He upbraided
Hugh; both with disloyalty and ingratitude; but told the rest; that
he considered them as men deluded and misinformed。  Hugh was sworn
to fidelity; and dismissed with his companions; but he was not
generous enough to be reclaimed by lenity; and finding no longer
any countenance among the gentlemen; endeavoured to execute the
same design by meaner hands。  In this practice he was detected;
taken to Macdonald's castle; and imprisoned in the dungeon。  When
he was hungry; they let down a plentiful meal of salted meat; and
when; after his repast; he called for drink; conveyed to him a
covered cup; which; when he lifted the lid; he found empty。  From
that time they visited him no more; but left him to perish in
solitude and darkness。

We were then told of a cavern by the sea…side; remarkable for the
powerful reverberation of sounds。  After dinner we took a boat; to
explore this curious cavity。  The boatmen; who seemed to be of a
rank above that of common drudges; inquired who the strangers were;
and being told we came one from Scotland; and the other from
England; asked if the Englishman could recount a long genealogy。
What answer was given them; the conversation being in Erse; I was
not much inclined to examine。

They expected no good event of the voyage; for one of them declared
that he heard the cry of an English ghost。  This omen I was not
told till after our return; and therefore cannot claim the dignity
of despising it。

The sea was smooth。  We never left the shore; and came without any
disaster to the cavern; which we found rugged and misshapen; about
one hundred and eighty feet long; thirty wide in the broadest part;
and in the loftiest; as we guessed; about thirty high。  It was now
dry; but at high water the sea rises in it near six feet。  Here I
saw what I had never seen before; limpets and mussels in their
natural state。  But; as a new testimony to the veracity of common
fame; here was no echo to be heard。

We then walked through a natural arch in the rock; which might have
pleased us by its novelty; had the stones; which incumbered our
feet; given us leisure to consider it。  We were shown the gummy
seed of the kelp; that fastens itself to a stone; from which it
grows into a strong stalk。

In our return; we found a little boy upon the point of rock;
catching with his angle; a supper for the family。  We rowed up to
him; and borrowed his rod; with which Mr。 Boswell caught a cuddy。

The cuddy is a fish of which I know not the philosophical name。  It
is not much bigger than a gudgeon; but is of great use in these
Islands; as it affords the lower people both food; and oil for
their lamps。  Cuddies are so abundant; at sometimes of the year;
that they are caught like whitebait in the Thames; only by dipping
a basket and drawing it back。

If it were always practicable to fish; these Islands could never be
in much danger from famine; but unhappily in the winter; when other
provision fails; the seas are commonly too rough for nets; or
boats。



TALISKER IN SKY



From Ulinish; our next stage was to Talisker; the house of colonel
Macleod; an officer in the Dutch service; who; in this time of
universal peace; has for several years been permitted to be absent
from his regiment。  Having been bred to physick; he is consequently
a scholar; and his lady; by accompanying him in his different
places of residence; is become skilful in several languages。
Talisker is the place beyond all that I have seen; from which the
gay and the jovial seem utterly excluded; and where the hermit
might expect to grow old in meditation; without possibility of
disturbance or interruption。  It is situated very near the sea; but
upon a coast where no vessel lands but when it is driven by a
tempest on the rocks。  Towards the land are lofty hills streaming
with water…falls。  The garden is sheltered by firs or pines; which
grow there so prosperously; that some; which the present inhabitant
planted; are very high and thick。

At this place we very happily met Mr。 Donald Maclean; a young
gentleman; the eldest son of the Laird of Col; heir to a very great
extent of land; and so desirous of improving his inheritance; that
he spent a considerable time among the farmers of Hertfordshire;
and Hampshire; to learn their practice。  He worked with his own
hands at the principal operations of agriculture; that he might not
deceive himself by a false opinion of skill; which; if he should
find it deficient at home; he had no means of completing。  If the
world has agreed to praise the travels and manual labours of the
Czar of Muscovy; let Col have his share of the like applause; in
the proportion of his dominions to the empire of Russia。

This young gentleman was sporting in the mountains of Sky; and when
he was weary with following his game; repaired for lodging to
Talisker。  At night he missed one of his dogs; and when he went to
seek him in the morning; found two eagles feeding on his carcass。

Col; for he must be named by his possessions; hearing that our
intention was to visit Jona; offered to conduct us to his chief;
Sir Allan Maclean; who lived in the isle of Inch Kenneth; and would
readily find us a convenient passage。  From this time was formed an
acquaintance; which being begun by kindness; was accidentally
continued by constraint; we derived much pleasure from it; and I
hope have given him no reason to repent it。

The weather was now almost one continued storm; and we were to
snatch some happy intermission to be conveyed to Mull; the third
Isl

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