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第11章

a journey to-第11章

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suffocated together。

Mountaineers are warlike; because by their feuds and competitions
they consider themselves as surrounded with enemies; and are always
prepared to repel incursions; or to make them。  Like the Greeks in
their unpolished state; described by Thucydides; the Highlanders;
till lately; went always armed; and carried their weapons to
visits; and to church。

Mountaineers are thievish; because they are poor; and having
neither manufactures nor commerce; can grow richer only by robbery。
They regularly plunder their neighbours; for their neighbours are
commonly their enemies; and having lost that reverence for
property; by which the order of civil life is preserved; soon
consider all as enemies; whom they do not reckon as friends; and
think themselves licensed to invade whatever they are not obliged
to protect。

By a strict administration of the laws; since the laws have been
introduced into the Highlands; this disposition to thievery is very
much represt。  Thirty years ago no herd had ever been conducted
through the mountains; without paying tribute in the night; to some
of the clans; but cattle are now driven; and passengers travel
without danger; fear; or molestation。

Among a warlike people; the quality of highest esteem is personal
courage; and with the ostentatious display of courage are closely
connected promptitude of offence and quickness of resentment。  The
Highlanders; before they were disarmed; were so addicted to
quarrels; that the boys used to follow any publick procession or
ceremony; however festive; or however solemn; in expectation of the
battle; which was sure to happen before the company dispersed。

Mountainous regions are sometimes so remote from the seat of
government; and so difficult of access; that they are very little
under the influence of the sovereign; or within the reach of
national justice。  Law is nothing without power; and the sentence
of a distant court could not be easily executed; nor perhaps very
safely promulgated; among men ignorantly proud and habitually
violent; unconnected with the general system; and accustomed to
reverence only their own lords。  It has therefore been necessary to
erect many particular jurisdictions; and commit the punishment of
crimes; and the decision of right to the proprietors of the country
who could enforce their own decrees。  It immediately appears that
such judges will be often ignorant; and often partial; but in the
immaturity of political establishments no better expedient could be
found。  As government advances towards perfection; provincial
judicature is perhaps in every empire gradually abolished。

Those who had thus the dispensation of law; were by consequence
themselves lawless。  Their vassals had no shelter from outrages and
oppressions; but were condemned to endure; without resistance; the
caprices of wantonness; and the rage of cruelty。

In the Highlands; some great lords had an hereditary jurisdiction
over counties; and some chieftains over their own lands; till the
final conquest of the Highlands afforded an opportunity of crushing
all the local courts; and of extending the general benefits of
equal law to the low and the high; in the deepest recesses and
obscurest corners。

While the chiefs had this resemblance of royalty; they had little
inclination to appeal; on any question; to superior judicatures。  A
claim of lands between two powerful lairds was decided like a
contest for dominion between sovereign powers。  They drew their
forces into the field; and right attended on the strongest。  This
was; in ruder times; the common practice; which the kings of
Scotland could seldom control。

Even so lately as in the last years of King William; a battle was
fought at Mull Roy; on a plain a few miles to the south of
Inverness; between the clans of Mackintosh and Macdonald of
Keppoch。  Col。  Macdonald; the head of a small clan; refused to pay
the dues demanded from him by Mackintosh; as his superior lord。
They disdained the interposition of judges and laws; and calling
each his followers to maintain the dignity of the clan; fought a
formal battle; in which several considerable men fell on the side
of Mackintosh; without a complete victory to either。  This is said
to have been the last open war made between the clans by their own
authority。

The Highland lords made treaties; and formed alliances; of which
some traces may still be found; and some consequences still remain
as lasting evidences of petty regality。  The terms of one of these
confederacies were; that each should support the other in the
right; or in the wrong; except against the king。

The inhabitants of mountains form distinct races; and are careful
to preserve their genealogies。  Men in a small district necessarily
mingle blood by intermarriages; and combine at last into one
family; with a common interest in the honour and disgrace of every
individual。  Then begins that union of affections; and co…operation
of endeavours; that constitute a clan。  They who consider
themselves as ennobled by their family; will think highly of their
progenitors; and they who through successive generations live
always together in the same place; will preserve local stories and
hereditary prejudices。  Thus every Highlander can talk of his
ancestors; and recount the outrages which they suffered from the
wicked inhabitants of the next valley。

Such are the effects of habitation among mountains; and such were
the qualities of the Highlanders; while their rocks secluded them
from the rest of mankind; and kept them an unaltered and
discriminated race。  They are now losing their distinction; and
hastening to mingle with the general community。



GLENELG



We left Auknasheals and the Macraes its the afternoon; and in the
evening came to Ratiken; a high hill on which a road is cut; but so
steep and narrow; that it is very difficult。  There is now a design
of making another way round the bottom。  Upon one of the
precipices; my horse; weary with the steepness of the rise;
staggered a little; and I called in haste to the Highlander to hold
him。  This was the only moment of my journey; in which I thought
myself endangered。

Having surmounted the hill at last; we were told that at Glenelg;
on the sea…side; we should come to a house of lime and slate and
glass。  This image of magnificence raised our expectation。  At last
we came to our inn weary and peevish; and began to inquire for meat
and beds。

Of the provisions the negative catalogue was very copious。  Here
was no meat; no milk; no bread; no eggs; no wine。  We did not
express much satisfaction。  Here however we were to stay。  Whisky
we might have; and I believe at last they caught a fowl and killed
it。  We had some bread; and with that we prepared ourselves to be
contented; when we had a very eminent proof of Highland
hospitality。  Along some miles of the way; in the evening; a
gentleman's servant had kept us company on foot with very little
notice on our part。  He left us near Glenelg; and we thought on him
no more till he came to us again; in about two hours; with a
present from his master of rum and sugar。  The man had mentioned
his company; and the gentleman; whose name; I think; is Gordon;
well knowing the penury of the place; had this attention to two
men; whose names perhaps he had not heard; by whom his kindness was
not likely to be ever repaid; and who could be recommended to him
only by their necessities。

We were now to examine our lodging。  Out of one of the beds; on
which we were to repose; started up; at our entrance; a man black
as a Cyclops from the forge。  Other circumstances of no elegant
recital concurred to disgust us。  We had been frighted by a lady at
Edinburgh; with discouraging representations of Highland lodgings。
Sleep; however; was necessary。  Our Highlanders had at last found
some hay; with which the inn could not supply them。  I directed
them to bring a bundle into the room; and slept upon it in my
riding coat。  Mr。 Boswell being more delicate; laid himself sheets
with hay over and under him; and lay in linen like a gentleman。



SKY。  ARMIDEL



In the morning; September the second; we

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