the diary of samuel pepys-第211章
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every street； and a most capacious market…place。 The city great； I think greater than Hereford。 But the minster most admirable； as big； I think； and handsomer than Westminster： and a most large close about it； and horses for the officers thereof； and a fine palace for the Bishop。 So to my lodging back； and took out my wife and people to show them the town and church； but they being at prayers； we could not be shown the quire。 A very good organ； and I looked in and saw the Bishop； my friend Dr。 Ward。 Thence to the inns； and there not being able to hire coach…horses； and not willing to use our own； we got saddle…horses； very dear。 Boy that went to look for them 6d。 So the three women behind W。 Hewer； Murford； and our guide； and I single to Stonehenge； over the plain and some great hills； even to fright us。 Come thither； and find them as prodigious as any tales I ever heard of them； and worth going this journey to see。 God knows what their use was： they are hard to tell； but yet may be told。 Gave the shepherd…woman； for leading our horses； 4d。 So back by Wilton； my Lord Pembroke's house； which we could not see； he being just coming to town； but the situation I do not like； nor the house at present much； it being in a low but rich valley。 So back home； and there being light we to the church； and there find them at prayers again； so could not see the quire； but I sent the women home； and I did go in and saw very many fine tombs； and among the rest some very ancient of the Montagus。 So home to dinner； and that being done； paid the reckoning； which was so exorbitant； and particular in rate of my horses； and 7s。 6d。 for bread and beer； that I was mad； and resolve to trouble the mistress about it； and get something for the poor； and come away in that humour： 2l。 5s。 6d。 Servants； 1s。 6d。； poor； 1s。； guide to the Stones； 2s。； poor woman in the street； 1s。； ribbands； 9d。； wash…woman； 1s。； sempstress for W。 Hewer； 3s。； lent W。 Hewer； 2s。 Thence about six o'clock； and with a guide went over the smooth plain indeed till night； and then by a happy mistake； and that looked like an adventure； we were carried out of our way to a town where we would lie； since we could not go as far as we would。 By and by to bed； glad of this mistake； because it seems； had we gone on as me pretended； we could not have passed with our coach； and must have lain on the plain all night。 This day from Salisbury I wrote by the post my excuse for not coming home； which I hope will do； for I am resolved to see the Bath； and； it may be； Bristol。
12th。 Friday。 Up； finding our beds good； but lousy； which made us merry。 We set out； the reckoning and servants coming to 9s。 6d。； my guide thither； 2s。； coachman advanced； 10s。 So rode a very good way； led to my great content by our landlord to Philips…Norton； with great pleasure； being now come into Somersetshire； where my wife and Deb。 mightily joyed thereat； ＇They were natives of that county。＇ I commending the country； as indeed it deserves。 And the first town we came to was Brekington； where we stopping for something for the horses； we called two or three little boys to us； and pleased ourselves with their manner of speech。 At Philips…Norton I walked to the church； and there saw a very ancient tomb of some Knight Templar； I think； and here saw the tombstone whereon there were only two heads cut； which the story goes； and creditably； were two sisters； called the Fair Maids of Foscott； that had two bodies upward and one belly； and there lie buried。 Here is also a very fine ring of six bells； and they mighty tuneable。 Having dined very well； 10s。； me come before night to the Bath； where I presently stepped out with my landlord； and saw the baths with people in them。 They are not so large as I expected； but yet pleasant； and the town most of stone； and clean； though the streets generally narrow。 I home； and being weary； went to bed without supper； the rest supping。
13th。 Saturday。 Up at four o'clock； being by appointment called up to the Cross Bath； where we were carried after one another； myself and wife and Betty Turner； Willet； and W。 Hewer。 And by and by； though we designed to have done before company come； much company come； very fine ladies； and the manner pretty enough； only methinks it cannot be clean to go so many bodies together in the same water。 Good conversation among them that are acquainted here； and stay together。 Strange to see how hot the water is； and in some places though this is the most temperate bath； the springs so hot as the feet not able to endure。 But strange to see； when women and men here； that live all the season in these waters； cannot but be parboiled and look like the creatures of the bath！ Carried away wrapped in a sheet； and in a chair home； and there one after another thus carried （I staying above two hours in the water） home to bed； sweating for an hour。 And by and by comes musick to play to me； extraordinary good as ever I heard at London almost any where： 5s。 Up to go to Bristoll about eleven o'clock； and paying my landlord that was our guide from Chiltren 10s。； and the serjeant of the bath 10s。； and the man that carried us in chairs 3s。 6d。； set out toward Bristoll； and come thither； the way bad； （in coach hired to spare our own horses；） but country good； about two o'clock； where set down at the Horse…shoe； and there being trimmed by a very handsome fellow； 2s。； walked with my wife and people through the city； which is in every respect another London； that one can hardly know it to stand in the country no more than that。 No carts； it standing generally on vaults； only dog…carts。 So to the Three Crowns Tavern I was directed； but when I came in； the master told me that he had newly given over the selling of wine； it seems grown rich： and so went to the Sun； and there Deb。 going with W。 Hewer and Betty Turner to see her uncle； and leaving my wife with the mistress of the house； I to see the quay； which is a most large and noble place； and to see the new ship building by Bally； neither he nor Furzer ＇Daniel Furzer； Surveyor to the Navy。＇ being in town。 It will be a fine ship。 Spoke with the foreman； and did give the boys that kept the cabin 2s。 Walked back to the Sun； where I find Deb。 come back； and with her； her uncle； a sober merchant； very good company； and so like one of our sober wealthy London merchants as pleased me mightily。 Here we dined； and much good talk with him； 7s。 6d。； a messenger to Sir John Knight； ＇Mayor of Bristol 1663； and M。P。 for that city。＇ who was not at home； 6d。 Then walked with him and my wife and company round the quay； and to the ship； and he showed me the Custom… house； and made me understand many things of the place； and led us through Marsh…street； where our girl was born。 But； Lord！ the joy that was among the old poor people of the place； to see Mrs。 Willet's daughter； it seems her mother being a brave woman and mightily beloved！ And so brought us a back way by surprize to his house； where a substantial good house； and well furnished； and did give us good entertainment of strawberries； a whole venison…pasty cold； and plenty of brave wine； and above all Bristol milk： where comes in another poor woman； who hearing that Deb。 was here did come running hither； and with her eyes so full of tears and heart so full of joy that she could not speak when she come in； that it made me weep too： I protest that I was not able to speak to her； which I would have done； to have diverted her tears。 His wife a good woman； and so sober and substantiall as I was never more pleased any where； Servant…maid； 2s。 So thence took leave and he with us through the city； where in walking I find the city pay him great respect； and he the like to the meanest； which pleased me mightily。 He showed us the place where the merchants meet here； and a fine cross yet standing； like Cheapside。 And so to the Horse…shoe； where paid the reckoning； 2s。 6d。 We back； and by moonshine to the Bath again about ten o'clock： bad way； and giving the coachman 1s。 went all of us to bed。
14th。 （Sunday）。 Up； and walked up and down the town； and saw a pretty good market…place； and many good streets； and very fair stone…houses。 And so to the great church；
