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第32章

st. ives-第32章

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until the hour of departure returned; and were only properly 

awakened by the first jolt of the renewed journey。  There were 

interruptions; at times; that we hailed as alleviations。  At times 

the cart was bogged; once it was upset; and we must alight and lend 

the driver the assistance of our arms; at times; too (as on the 

occasion when I had first encountered it); the horses gave out; and 

we had to trail alongside in mud or frost until the first peep of 

daylight; or the approach to a hamlet or a high road; bade us 

disappear like ghosts into our prison。



The main roads of England are incomparable for excellence; of a 

beautiful smoothness; very ingeniously laid down; and so well kept 

that in most weathers you could take your dinner off any part of 

them without distaste。  On them; to the note of the bugle; the mail 

did its sixty miles a day; innumerable chaises whisked after the 

bobbing postboys; or some young blood would flit by in a curricle 

and tandem; to the vast delight and danger of the lieges。  On them; 

the slow…pacing waggons made a music of bells; and all day long the 

travellers on horse…back and the travellers on foot (like happy Mr。 

St。 Ives so little a while before!) kept coming and going; and 

baiting and gaping at each other; as though a fair were due; and 

they were gathering to it from all England。  No; nowhere in the 

world is travel so great a pleasure as in that country。  But 

unhappily our one need was to be secret; and all this rapid and 

animated picture of the road swept quite apart from us; as we 

lumbered up hill and down dale; under hedge and over stone; among 

circuitous byways。  Only twice did I receive; as it were; a whiff 

of the highway。  The first reached my ears alone。  I might have 

been anywhere。  I only knew I was walking in the dark night and 

among ruts; when I heard very far off; over the silent country that 

surrounded us; the guard's horn wailing its signal to the next 

post…house for a change of horses。  It was like the voice of the 

day heard in darkness; a voice of the world heard in prison; the 

note of a cock crowing in the mid…seas … in short; I cannot tell 

you what it was like; you will have to fancy for yourself … but I 

could have wept to hear it。  Once we were belated: the cattle could 

hardly crawl; the day was at hand; it was a nipping; rigorous 

morning; King was lashing his horses; I was giving an arm to the 

old Colonel; and the Major was coughing in our rear。  I must 

suppose that King was a thought careless; being nearly in 

desperation about his team; and; in spite of the cold morning; 

breathing hot with his exertions。  We came; at last; a little 

before sunrise to the summit of a hill; and saw the high…road 

passing at right angles through an open country of meadows and 

hedgerow pollards; and not only the York mail; speeding smoothly at 

the gallop of the four horses; but a post…chaise besides; with the 

post…boy titupping briskly; and the traveller himself putting his 

head out of the window; but whether to breathe the dawn; or the 

better to observe the passage of the mail; I do not know。  So that 

we enjoyed for an instant a picture of free life on the road; in 

its most luxurious forms of despatch and comfort。  And thereafter; 

with a poignant feeling of contrast in our hearts; we must mount 

again into our wheeled dungeon。



We came to our stages at all sorts of odd hours; and they were in 

all kinds of odd places。  I may say at once that my first 

experience was my best。  Nowhere again were we so well entertained 

as at Burchell Fenn's。  And this; I suppose; was natural; and 

indeed inevitable; in so long and secret a journey。  The first 

stop; we lay six hours in a barn standing by itself in a poor; 

marshy orchard; and packed with hay; to make it more attractive; we 

were told it had been the scene of an abominable murder; and was 

now haunted。  But the day was beginning to break; and our fatigue 

was too extreme for visionary terrors。  The second or third; we 

alighted on a barren heath about midnight; built a fire to warm us 

under the shelter of some thorns; supped like beggars on bread and 

a piece of cold bacon; and slept like gipsies with our feet to the 

fire。  In the meanwhile; King was gone with the cart; I know not 

where; to get a change of horses; and it was late in the dark 

morning when he returned and we were able to resume our journey。  

In the middle of another night; we came to a stop by an ancient; 

whitewashed cottage of two stories; a privet hedge surrounded it; 

the frosty moon shone blankly on the upper windows; but through 

those of the kitchen the firelight was seen glinting on the roof 

and reflected from the dishes on the wall。  Here; after much 

hammering on the door; King managed to arouse an old crone from the 

chimney…corner chair; where she had been dozing in the watch; and 

we were had in; and entertained with a dish of hot tea。  This old 

lady was an aunt of Burchell Fenn's … and an unwilling partner in 

his dangerous trade。  Though the house stood solitary; and the hour 

was an unlikely one for any passenger upon the road; King and she 

conversed in whispers only。  There was something dismal; something 

of the sick…room; in this perpetual; guarded sibilation。  The 

apprehensions of our hostess insensibly communicated themselves to 

every one present。  We ate like mice in a cat's ear; if one of us 

jingled a teaspoon; all would start; and when the hour came to take 

the road again; we drew a long breath of relief; and climbed to our 

places in the covered cart with a positive sense of escape。  The 

most of our meals; however; were taken boldly at hedgerow 

alehouses; usually at untimely hours of the day; when the clients 

were in the field or the farmyard at labour。  I shall have to tell 

presently of our last experience of the sort; and how unfortunately 

it miscarried; but as that was the signal for my separation from my 

fellow…travellers; I must first finish with them。



I had never any occasion to waver in my first judgment of the 

Colonel。  The old gentleman seemed to me; and still seems in the 

retrospect; the salt of the earth。  I had occasion to see him in 

the extremes of hardship; hunger and cold; he was dying; and he 

looked it; and yet I cannot remember any hasty; harsh; or impatient 

word to have fallen from his lips。  On the contrary; he ever showed 

himself careful to please; and even if he rambled in his talk; 

rambled always gently … like a humane; half…witted old hero; true 

to his colours to the last。  I would not dare to say how often he 

awoke suddenly from a lethargy; and told us again; as though we had 

never heard it; the story of how he had earned the cross; how it 

had been given him by the hand of the Emperor; and of the innocent 

… and; indeed; foolish … sayings of his daughter when he returned 

with it on his bosom。  He had another anecdote which he was very 

apt to give; by way of a rebuke; when the Major wearied us beyond 

endurance with dispraises of the English。  This was an account of 

the BRAVES GENS with whom he had been boarding。  True enough; he 

was a man so simple and grateful by nature; that the most common 

civilities were able to touch him to the heart; and would remain 

written in his memory; but from a thousand inconsiderable but 

conclusive indications; I gathered that this family had really 

loved him; and loaded him with kindness。  They made a fire in his 

bedroom; which the sons and daughters tended with their own hands; 

letters from France were looked for with scarce more eagerness by 

himself than by these alien sympathisers; when they came; he would 

read them aloud in the parlour to the assembled family; translating 

as he went。  The Colonel's English was elementary; his daughter not 

in the least likely to be an amusing correspondent; and; as I 

conceived these scenes in the parlour; I felt sure the in

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