st. ives-第32章
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until the hour of departure returned; and were only properly
awakened by the first jolt of the renewed journey。 There were
interruptions; at times; that we hailed as alleviations。 At times
the cart was bogged; once it was upset; and we must alight and lend
the driver the assistance of our arms; at times; too (as on the
occasion when I had first encountered it); the horses gave out; and
we had to trail alongside in mud or frost until the first peep of
daylight; or the approach to a hamlet or a high road; bade us
disappear like ghosts into our prison。
The main roads of England are incomparable for excellence; of a
beautiful smoothness; very ingeniously laid down; and so well kept
that in most weathers you could take your dinner off any part of
them without distaste。 On them; to the note of the bugle; the mail
did its sixty miles a day; innumerable chaises whisked after the
bobbing postboys; or some young blood would flit by in a curricle
and tandem; to the vast delight and danger of the lieges。 On them;
the slow…pacing waggons made a music of bells; and all day long the
travellers on horse…back and the travellers on foot (like happy Mr。
St。 Ives so little a while before!) kept coming and going; and
baiting and gaping at each other; as though a fair were due; and
they were gathering to it from all England。 No; nowhere in the
world is travel so great a pleasure as in that country。 But
unhappily our one need was to be secret; and all this rapid and
animated picture of the road swept quite apart from us; as we
lumbered up hill and down dale; under hedge and over stone; among
circuitous byways。 Only twice did I receive; as it were; a whiff
of the highway。 The first reached my ears alone。 I might have
been anywhere。 I only knew I was walking in the dark night and
among ruts; when I heard very far off; over the silent country that
surrounded us; the guard's horn wailing its signal to the next
post…house for a change of horses。 It was like the voice of the
day heard in darkness; a voice of the world heard in prison; the
note of a cock crowing in the mid…seas … in short; I cannot tell
you what it was like; you will have to fancy for yourself … but I
could have wept to hear it。 Once we were belated: the cattle could
hardly crawl; the day was at hand; it was a nipping; rigorous
morning; King was lashing his horses; I was giving an arm to the
old Colonel; and the Major was coughing in our rear。 I must
suppose that King was a thought careless; being nearly in
desperation about his team; and; in spite of the cold morning;
breathing hot with his exertions。 We came; at last; a little
before sunrise to the summit of a hill; and saw the high…road
passing at right angles through an open country of meadows and
hedgerow pollards; and not only the York mail; speeding smoothly at
the gallop of the four horses; but a post…chaise besides; with the
post…boy titupping briskly; and the traveller himself putting his
head out of the window; but whether to breathe the dawn; or the
better to observe the passage of the mail; I do not know。 So that
we enjoyed for an instant a picture of free life on the road; in
its most luxurious forms of despatch and comfort。 And thereafter;
with a poignant feeling of contrast in our hearts; we must mount
again into our wheeled dungeon。
We came to our stages at all sorts of odd hours; and they were in
all kinds of odd places。 I may say at once that my first
experience was my best。 Nowhere again were we so well entertained
as at Burchell Fenn's。 And this; I suppose; was natural; and
indeed inevitable; in so long and secret a journey。 The first
stop; we lay six hours in a barn standing by itself in a poor;
marshy orchard; and packed with hay; to make it more attractive; we
were told it had been the scene of an abominable murder; and was
now haunted。 But the day was beginning to break; and our fatigue
was too extreme for visionary terrors。 The second or third; we
alighted on a barren heath about midnight; built a fire to warm us
under the shelter of some thorns; supped like beggars on bread and
a piece of cold bacon; and slept like gipsies with our feet to the
fire。 In the meanwhile; King was gone with the cart; I know not
where; to get a change of horses; and it was late in the dark
morning when he returned and we were able to resume our journey。
In the middle of another night; we came to a stop by an ancient;
whitewashed cottage of two stories; a privet hedge surrounded it;
the frosty moon shone blankly on the upper windows; but through
those of the kitchen the firelight was seen glinting on the roof
and reflected from the dishes on the wall。 Here; after much
hammering on the door; King managed to arouse an old crone from the
chimney…corner chair; where she had been dozing in the watch; and
we were had in; and entertained with a dish of hot tea。 This old
lady was an aunt of Burchell Fenn's … and an unwilling partner in
his dangerous trade。 Though the house stood solitary; and the hour
was an unlikely one for any passenger upon the road; King and she
conversed in whispers only。 There was something dismal; something
of the sick…room; in this perpetual; guarded sibilation。 The
apprehensions of our hostess insensibly communicated themselves to
every one present。 We ate like mice in a cat's ear; if one of us
jingled a teaspoon; all would start; and when the hour came to take
the road again; we drew a long breath of relief; and climbed to our
places in the covered cart with a positive sense of escape。 The
most of our meals; however; were taken boldly at hedgerow
alehouses; usually at untimely hours of the day; when the clients
were in the field or the farmyard at labour。 I shall have to tell
presently of our last experience of the sort; and how unfortunately
it miscarried; but as that was the signal for my separation from my
fellow…travellers; I must first finish with them。
I had never any occasion to waver in my first judgment of the
Colonel。 The old gentleman seemed to me; and still seems in the
retrospect; the salt of the earth。 I had occasion to see him in
the extremes of hardship; hunger and cold; he was dying; and he
looked it; and yet I cannot remember any hasty; harsh; or impatient
word to have fallen from his lips。 On the contrary; he ever showed
himself careful to please; and even if he rambled in his talk;
rambled always gently … like a humane; half…witted old hero; true
to his colours to the last。 I would not dare to say how often he
awoke suddenly from a lethargy; and told us again; as though we had
never heard it; the story of how he had earned the cross; how it
had been given him by the hand of the Emperor; and of the innocent
… and; indeed; foolish … sayings of his daughter when he returned
with it on his bosom。 He had another anecdote which he was very
apt to give; by way of a rebuke; when the Major wearied us beyond
endurance with dispraises of the English。 This was an account of
the BRAVES GENS with whom he had been boarding。 True enough; he
was a man so simple and grateful by nature; that the most common
civilities were able to touch him to the heart; and would remain
written in his memory; but from a thousand inconsiderable but
conclusive indications; I gathered that this family had really
loved him; and loaded him with kindness。 They made a fire in his
bedroom; which the sons and daughters tended with their own hands;
letters from France were looked for with scarce more eagerness by
himself than by these alien sympathisers; when they came; he would
read them aloud in the parlour to the assembled family; translating
as he went。 The Colonel's English was elementary; his daughter not
in the least likely to be an amusing correspondent; and; as I
conceived these scenes in the parlour; I felt sure the in