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of the speeches he could make best; full of quaint phrasing; happy humor;
gentle and dramatic pathos。  He closed by telling the watermelon story
for its 〃moral effect。〃

He was the guest of E。 W。 Stevens in Columbia; and a dinner was given in
his honor。  They would have liked to keep him longer; but he was due in
St。 Louis again to join in the dedication of the grounds; where was to be
held a World's Fair; to celebrate the Louisiana Purchase。  Another
ceremony he attended was the christening of the St。 Louis harbor…boat; or
rather the rechristening; for it had been decided to change its name from
the St。 Louis'Originally the Elon G。  Smith; built in 1873。'to the
Mark Twain。  A short trip was made on it for the ceremony。  Governor
Francis and Mayor Wells were of the party; and Count and Countess
Rochambeau and Marquis de Lafayette; with the rest of the French group
that had come over for the dedication of the World's Fair grounds。

Mark Twain himself was invited to pilot the harbor boat; and so returned
for the last time to his old place at the wheel。  They all collected in
the pilot…house behind him; feeling that it was a memorable occasion。 
They were going along well enough when he saw a little ripple running out
from the shore across the bow。  In the old days he could have told
whether it indicated a bar there or was only caused by the wind; but he
could not be sure any more。  Turning to the pilot languidly; he said:
〃I feel a little tired。  I guess you had better take the wheel。〃

Luncheon was served aboard; and Mayor Wells made the christening speech;
then the Countess Rochambeau took a bottle of champagne from the hand of
Governor Francis and smashed it on the deck; saying; 〃 I christen thee;
good boat; Mark Twain。〃  So it was; the Mississippi joined in according
him honors。  In his speech of reply he paid tribute to those illustrious
visitors from France and recounted something of the story of French
exploration along that great river。

〃The name of La Salle will last as long as the river itself;〃 he said;
〃will last until commerce is dead。  We have allowed the commerce of the
river to die; but it was to accommodate the railroads; and we must be
grateful。〃

Carriages were waiting for them when the boat landed in the afternoon;
and the party got in and were driven to a house which had been identified
as Eugene Field's birthplace。  A bronze tablet recording this fact had
been installed; and this was to be the unveiling。  The place was not in
an inviting quarter of the town。  It stood in what is known as Walsh's
Rowwas fashionable enough once; perhaps; but long since fallen into
disrepute。  Ragged children played in the doorways; and thirsty lodgers
were making trips with tin pails to convenient bar…rooms。  A curious
nondescript audience assembled around the little group of dedicators;
wondering what it was all about。  The tablet was concealed by the
American flag; which could be easily pulled away by an attached cord。
Governor Francis spoke a few words; to the effect that they had gathered
here to unveil a tablet to an American poet; and that it was fitting that
Mark Twain should do this。  They removed their hats; and Clemens; his
white hair blowing in the wind; said:

〃My friends; we are here with reverence and respect to commemorate and
enshrine in memory the house where was born a man who; by his life; made
bright the lives of all who knew him; and by his literary efforts cheered
the thoughts of thousands who never knew him。  I take pleasure in
unveiling the tablet of Eugene Field。〃

The flag fell and the bronze inscription was revealed。  By this time the
crowd; generally; had recognized who it was that was speaking。  A
working…man proposed three cheers for Mark Twain; and they were heartily
given。  Then the little party drove away; while the neighborhood
collected to regard the old house with a new interest。

It was reported to Clemens later that there was some dispute as to the
identity of the Field birthplace。  He said:

〃Never mind。  It is of no real consequence whether it is his birthplace
or not。  A rose in any other garden will bloom as sweet。〃




CCXXIII

AT YORK HARBOR

They decided to spend the summer at York Harbor; Maine。  They engaged a
cottage; there; and about the end of June Mr。 Rogers brought his yacht
Kanawha to their water…front at Riverdale; and in perfect weather took
them to Maine by sea。  They landed at York Harbor and took possession of
their cottage; The Pines; one of their many attractive summer lodges。 
Howells; at Kittery Point; was not far away; and everything promised a
happy summer。

Mrs。 Clemens wrote to Mrs。 Crane:

     We are in the midst of pines。  They come up right about us; and the
     house is so high and the roots of the trees are so far below the
     veranda that we are right in the branches。  We drove over to call on
     Mr。 and Mrs。 Howells。  The drive was most beautiful; and never in my
     life have I seen such a variety of wild flowers in so short a space。

Howells tells us of the wide; low cottage in a pine grove overlooking
York River; and how he used to sit with Clemens that summer at a corner
of the veranda farthest away from Mrs。 Clemens's window; where they could
read their manuscripts to each other; and tell their stories and laugh
their hearts out without disturbing her。

Clemens; as was his habit; had taken a work…room in a separate cottage
〃in the house of a friend and neighbor; a fisherman and a boatman〃:

     There was a table where he could write; and a bed where he could lie
     down and read; and there; unless my memory has played me one of
     those constructive tricks that people's memories indulge in; he read
     me the first chapters of an admirable story。  The scene was laid in
     a Missouri town; and the characters such as he had known in boyhood;
     but often as I tried to make him own it; he denied having written
     any such story; it is possible that I dreamed it; but I hope the MS。 
     will yet be found。

Howells did not dream it; but in one way his memory misled him。  The
story was one which Clemens had heard in Hannibal; and he doubtless
related it in his vivid way。  Howells; writing at a later time; quite
naturally included it among the several manuscripts which Clemens read
aloud to him。  Clemens may have intended to write the tale; may even have
begun it; though this is unlikely。  The incidents were too well known and
too notorious in his old home for fiction。

Among the stories that Clemens did show; or read; to Howells that summer
was 〃The Belated Passport;〃 a strong; intensely interesting story with
what Howells in a letter calls a 〃goat's tail ending;〃 perhaps meaning
that it stopped with a brief and sudden shakewith a joke; in fact;
altogether unimportant; and on the whole disappointing to the reader。  A
far more notable literary work of that summer grew out of a true incident
which Howells related to Clemens as they sat chatting together on the
veranda overlooking the river one summer afternoon。  It was a pathetic
episode in the life of some former occupants of The Pinesthe tale of a
double illness in the household; where a righteous deception was carried
on during several weeks for the benefit of a life that was about to slip
away。  Out of this grew the story; 〃Was it Heaven? or Hell?〃 a
heartbreaking history which probes the very depths of the human soul。 
Next to 〃Hadleyburg;〃 it is Mark Twain's greatest fictional sermon。

Clemens that summer wrote; or rather finished; his most pretentious poem。 
One day at Riverdale; when Mrs。 Clemens had been with him on the lawn;
they had remembered together the time when their family of little folks
had filled their lives so full; conjuring up dream…like glimpses of them
in the years of play and short frocks and hair…plaits down their backs。 
It was pathetic; heart…wringing fancying; and later in the day Clemens
conceived and began the poem which now he brought to conclusion。  It was
built on the idea of a mother who imagines her dead child still living;
and describes to any listener the pictures of her fancy。  It is an
impressive piece of work; 

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