the grand canyon of arizona-第57章

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ordinary　speed。　Suddenly　another　cloud　appeared；　travelling　after　the　first。　As　it　came；　the　earlier　one　veered　to　the　north；　and　began　to　cross　the　Canyon；　losing　some　of　its　serenity　and　calmness　of　manner　as　it　did　so；　for　now；　either　as　the　result　of　conflict　from　within；　or　silent　influence　from　without；　it　began　to　writhe　and　change　its　shape。　Ugly　angles　were　thrust　out　from　its　hitherto　smooth　sides；　and　sent　waving　and　tossing　aloft。　While　this　was　occurring；　the　second　cloud　veered；　and　when　I　gazed　again；　after　withdrawing　my　attention　for　a　few　moments；　the　two　were　one；　the　subtle　yet　powerful　forces　in　the　air　having　wedded　them。　Together　they　slowly　floated　north　and　east。　In　the　meantime；　other　clouds　had　been　coming　from　the　east。　They　sailed　along　serenely　until　they　came　within　what　appeared　to　be　a　few　hundred　yards　of　me；　and　then　suddenly　they　veered　to　the　north；　crossed　the　Canyon；　and　joined　the　vast　army　of　clouds　that　lay　in　solemn　quietude；　waiting　for　the　decisive　battle　of　the　day。　I　went　away　from　the　rim　for　an　hour　or　so；　and　when　I　returned　not　a　trace　of　a　cloud　was　to　be　seen。

A　Beautiful　Fog　Effect。　Another　morning　I　saw　the　Grand　Canyon　as　one　hears　an　exquisite　poem；　a　soft　strain　of　music　on　violin；　'cello　or　oboe；　or　sung　by　the　human　voice。　It　was　no　longer　terrifying　and　awe…inspiring；　it　affected　one　as　beautiful　flowers　do；　as　the　blessing　of　an　old　man　or　woman；　as　the　half　unconscious　caress　of　a　sleepy　child　whom　you　love。　It　was　poetry　personified；　the　spirit　of　beauty　revealed；　the　inner　glory　of　an　artistic　mystery　unveiled。

There　had　been　rain　nearly　all　night；　preceded　by　considerable　wind。　The　clouds　had　massed　together　across　the　Canyon　on　the　Kaibab。　Winds　had　seemed　to　blow　from　every　direction；　but　mainly　from　the　southeast；　and　there　were　a　few　〃sunshiny　showers〃　in　the　late　afternoon。　The　rain　began　after　the　sun　had　gone　down；　and　it　descended　easily　but　steadily　nearly　all　night。　At　six　o'clock　in　the　morning；　not　a　glimpse　of　the　Canyon　could　be　had。　It　was　completely　buried；　wrapped；　enveloped　in　clouds。　About　nine　o'clock　these　began　to　move。　The　rain　ceased；　tiny　patches　of　blue　shone　through　the　clouds　overhead；　though　east；　west；　north；　south　they　were　still　black　and　lowering。　It　was　cold　almost　to　chilliness　after　the　warmth　of　the　preceding　days；　so　there　was　no　haste；　no　hurry；　in　the　dispersion　of　the　cloud　blankets　that　covered　the　rocky　walls　and　plateaus　below。　Slowly　they　began　to　rise；　then　to　stretch　out　and　become　attenuated。　Tiny　gusts　of　wind　played　with　them；　and　tossed　them　hither　and　thither。　Banks　of　smoky　gray　lay　over　certain　portions；　but　there　was　no　regularity；　no　evenness；　either　in　the　clouds　themselves；　or　in　their　disposition。　East　and　west　thick　masses　hid　all　vision；　immediately　at　our　feet　the　clouds　filled　the　lower　canyons　below　the　plateaus；　with　a　glorious；　fleecy；　silvery　white；　that　tempted　one　to　walk　upon　it　into　the　realms　of　fairyland　and　wonder。　Fleeces　of　irregular　shape；　but　a　mile　long　and　two　miles　wide；　slowly　lifted　themselves　from　a　horizontal　position　to　a　vertical　one；　thus　converting　themselves　from　blankets　into　curtains。　Yet　behind　and　through　them；as　a　coy　beauty　half　reveals；　half　conceals；　her　charms；so　the　walls　and　buttes；　the　pinnacles　and　buttresses；　took　on　a　new　and　delicate　beauty；　a　subtleness　of　charm　and　refinement　that　only　such　a　veiling　could　produce。　Every　moment　the　panorama　changed。　This　was　veiled　completely；　that　entirely　uncovered；　while　other　features　were　dimly　discernible；　or　so　softened　by　the　fleecy；　attenuated　clouds　that　they　seemed　the　airy　fabrics　of　a　child's　dream　of　oriental　splendor。　Now　as　filmy　steam；　then　as　densest　vapor　boiling　up　from　a　world…deep　cauldron　of　unearthly　beauty；　the　moisture　moved；　here　catching　rapidly　ascending　currents　of　air；　there　lazily　floating　with　serenest　ease。　It　was　hard　to　tear　oneself　away；　and　the　mind　still　lingers　and　will　often　again　recur　to　it；　as　one　of　the　many　never　to　be　forgotten　experiences　of　this　most　wonderful　place。



CHAPTER　XXX。The　Grand　Canyon　For　Pleasure；　Rest　And　Recuperation

Unchanging　Value　of　the　Canyon。　Many　people　think　of　the　Grand　Canyon　as　a　show　place；　which；　once　seen；　does　not　need　to　be　revisited。　Never　was　there　a　greater　mistake；　for　its　resources　are　inexhaustible；　even　though　one　visit　it　annually　for　a　lifetime。　The　business　man　invests　in　stocks　and　bonds。　A　panic　may　wipe　out　their　values　and　ruin　follow　in　a　night…time。　But　a　visit　to　the　Grand　Canyon　is　an　investment　that　yields　interest　manifold　and　compounded；　as　long　as　the　faculty　of　memory　remains。　Better　still；　there　is　no　middleman　in　the　deal。　The　ticker　does　not　reel　off　the　changing　values。　You　yourself　are　the　banker；　and　the　joys　of　beholding　and　possessing　are　permanent。

Its　Mental　and　Spiritual　Influence。　The　first　impressions；　maybe；　are　productive　of　physical　and　mental　excitement。　But　when　the　traveler　comes　into　complete　harmony　with　the　Grand　Canyon's　sublime　features；　bodily　rest　and　mental　tranquillity　are　sure　to　follow。　Of　course；　we　get　out　of　Nature　what　we　bring　to　her　mentally　and　spiritually；　but　of　no　other　place　can　it　be　truly　said　that　the　play　of　external　forces　has　so　sure　a　charm；　so　direct　an　influence。　A　man　big　mentally　cannot　be　satisfied　（when　away　from　his　work）　with　a　place　inferior　to　that　with　which　he　is　habitually　acquainted。　Thus　many　a　man；　wise　and　thoughtful　in　all　the　other　relations　of　his　life；　will　go　to　some　inferior　place　for　his　holiday；　and　return　home　dissatisfied。　He　has　chosen　unwisely。　He　has　associated　with　that　which　is　beneath　him。　Man's　scenic　environment　and　its　influence　over　him　are　as　much　a　matter　of　scientific　knowledge；　as　the　influence　of　his　heredity　or　his　food。　A　wise　man；　therefore；　puts　himself；　at　vacation　time；　in　relationship　with　that　scenic　environment　which　will　best　minister　to　his　welfare。　Nature　is　God's　provision　for　supplying　man　with　his　needed　rest　and　recuperation。

Its　Restful　and　Strengthening　Qualities。　Some　prefer　the　forests；　others　the　mountains；　others　the　sea；　others　the　plains；　others　the　solitudes　of　the　desert。　Among　them　all　in　power　to　recuperate　man's　exhausted　energies；　the　Grand　Canyon　stands　supreme。　〃I　come　here　again　and　again；　because　nowhere　else　do　I　find　such　rest　and　strength；〃　said　one　of　the　leading　men　of　California　to　me；　in　the　rendezvous　of　El　Tovar；　only　a　short　time　ago。　My　own　life　and　experience　is　a　proof　of　this　statement。　For　nearly　twenty　years　I　have　been　visiting　the　Canyon　annually；　and　for　many　years　there　were　few　conveniences；　such　as　railway　and　hotels。　Now　these　are　provided。　One　may　leave　his　office　in　San　Francisco；　Los　Angeles；　Chicago　or　Kansas　City；　and　in　a　Pullman　car　ride　direct　to　the　Canyon；　where　a　few　steps　will　lead　him　into　one　of　the　most　perfectly　equipped；　yet　homelike　hotels　in　America。　And　there；　without　effort　or　fatigue；　he　comes　face　to　face　with　this　rest…giving；　strength…producing　Canyon。　As　soon　as　a　man　or　woman　learns　this；　you　can　scarcely　get　him；　or　her；　to　wait　the　coming　of　the　regular　holiday　period。　The　appeal　of　the　Canyon　is　as　strong　as　the　〃call　of　the　wild；〃　and　that　man　or　woman　needing　quiet　is　wisest　who　yields　to　the　call；　and　yields　often；　going　to　the　Canyon　in　perfect　faith　that　it　has　within　itself　recuperative　powers　which　it　is　ready　to　give　in　full　measure　to　those　who　are　in　need。

Ways　in　Which　to　Recuperate。　To　those　who　recuperate　best　by　contact　with　Nature　out…of…doors；　the　suggestions　contained　in　the　chapters　devoted　to　the　various　outing　trips　will　be　useful。　Those　who　wish　to　lounge　and　rest；　surrounded　without　by　all　the　sublimity　of　this　unequalled　scene；　and　within　by　all　the　comforts　and　luxuries　of　a　modern　hotel；　will　find　that　the　Grand　Canyon　absolutely　satisfies　their　most　exacting　demands。　Easy　and　gentle　drives；　with　perfect　equipment；　over　forest　roads；　in　the　restfully　stimulating　atmosphere　of　Arizona；　at　an　elevation　of　nearly　seven　thousand　feet；　soothe　tired　brain　and　nerves。　More　vigorous　horseback　exercises；　taken　through　the　park…like　glades　and　reaches　of　the　Coconino　Forest；　produce　perfect　digestion　and　the　restfulne