the grand canyon of arizona-第50章
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their report； knew a little of the immense territory now acquired。 In the previous century； the Spaniards had discovered the value of the pelts of the fur…bearing animals of California； and a few venturesome spirits were soon to learn that the western mountains； forests and rivers abounded in the same profitable game。 In his interesting and illuminative American Fur Trade of the Far West； Chittenden has shed a flood of light on these early…day operations。
Trappers Seek Riches。 Padilla； Kino； Garces； Escalante； and others of the brave Spanish padres； had penetrated into some portion of these unknown territories； but they had gone with the vow of poverty upon them。 No greed for gold blinded their eyes to the rights of others。 A hunger for the salvation of souls was their only hunger； the glitter of the golden harps and crowns in heaven the only glitter that attracted them。 But the trappers had a different purpose。 They were a different kind of men。 Rough and ready； venturesome to the last degree； turbulent as the raging Colorado； imperious in their high…handed dealing with all who stood in their way； they were about to enter the conflict for the sake of gold； and gold is the most remorseless driver； the most soul…destroying master man ever has had。
Trappers the Primary Cause of Indian Wars。 It has been the trappers who largely have given to us our notions of the American Indians of the West。 For they were the first men to come into conflict with them。 They were the first to dispute with them about water…holes and springs； about 〃rights；〃 about 〃property。〃 Is it necessary to ask what kind of a report such men would bring of any who stood in their way？ Is it necessary to know much of human nature to know how these men treated the Indians？ The trappers not only began the lucrative fur trade of the West； that laid the foundation for several vast American fortunes； but they also laid the foundation for a series of Indian wars that have cost the United States more lives and treasure than all the furs ever gathered on earth were worth。 And not only did they take the furs from the animals they trapped。 The agents of the Fur Companies （whether British or American） took them from the Indians。 Read Jim Beckwourth's accounts of how he traded with the Indians； and listen to his own comments upon his actions。 As Dellenbaugh vividly says： 〃Roughshod the trapper broke the wilderness； fathomed its secret places； traversed its trails and passes； marking them with his own blood and more vividly with that of the natives。〃
The Ashley Fur Camp Is Established。 Early in the last century； the trappers were operating on the head waters of the Colorado River。 Green River Valley was discovered； and in 1822 one of the most brilliant men of the West of that period； General William Henry Ashley （born in Virginia in 1778； went to Missouri in 1802； and in 1820 was its first governor）； went into the fur trade with Andrew Henry； an expert trapper。 Two years later； with a band of such men as Henry； Ashley established a camp in Green River Valley； and； with his men； set out on expeditions for furs and pelts。
Inscription at Red Canyon。 When in June； 1869； Powell and his party were passing through the fourth canyon after leaving Green River； now known as Red Canyon； they saw an inscription on one of the huge rocks above the river； done in black letters； sheltered by a slight projection of the rock which acted as a cornice； reading：
〃Ashley 18。。。5〃
The third figure was obscure and some of the party read in 1835； some 1855。
Ashley Expedition Unsuccessful。 It should have been read 1825。 Powell was not familiar with the history of the fur traders。 Ashley was an unknown name to him； but as Chittenden has so vividly pointed out； he； in his way； left his impress upon our Western civilization as strongly as did Powell。 Would that it had been as nobly； as grandly beneficent。 Ashley fitted up a trapping expedition to go down Green River； in spite of its known dangers； and； expecting to find beaver in plenty； took but little provisions along with them。 At first they did fairly well。 Then； as the canyons narrowed； to their horror and distress； as well as surprise；for they had kept none of the meat of the beavers they had killed；the animals ceased to appear； and starvation stared them in the face。 For six days they were without food。 The precipitous walls of the Canyon forbade escape； and at length they became so demoralized that Beckwourth declares they actually proposed to cast lots as to which should be killed to make food for the others。 This fearful proposition so horrified Ashley that he begged them to hold out a while longer； and to their joy they soon emerged from the Canyon； possibly at a place known as Brown's Hole； where Provo； an experienced trapper； had his camp。 From here they abandoned the Canyon expedition； and doubtless returned with Provo to Salt Lake。 Powell named the falls near where Ashley left his name Ashley Falls。
There is every reason to assume that other trappers attempted the passage of the Canyon； for Powell found a bake oven； several tin plates； and part of a boot in Lodore Canyon； which he imagined were Ashley's； but； as we have seen； Ashley never went down so far。
Other Unsuccessful Trappers。 In his excellent Romance of the Colorado River； Dellenbaugh recites at length； from their own narratives largely； the adventures of several trappers and others； whose experiences are connected with the Colorado River；the Patties； Jedediah Smith；
Kit Carson； William Wolfskill； Farnham； Fremont； Lieutenant Derby； Captain Johnson； and others； who； however； never came actually into the Grand Canyon region。 Hence I shall make no further reference to them here。 My reason for giving so much space to Ashley has been merely to offer a sample of the kind of experiences the trappers of the early days met with； in trying to solve the problem of the canyons of the Colorado River。
Lieutenant Ives' Expedition。 Lieutenant Ives' expedition； however； reached into the very heart of this country。 He visited the Havasupais in their canyon； also the Wallapais； and traversed the weary miles across the desert to the villages of the Hopi。 Steamboats had plied up and down the Colorado River from the Gulf of California as far as Fort Yumanear where the present railroad bridge crosses the streambut Ives was instructed by the War Department to explore the river further up； in order to determine whether the military posts of New Mexico and Utah could be reached； and their supplies transported by the Colorado。 Instead of calling upon Captain Johnson and chartering his steamboat； the Colorado； Ives ordered his steamer constructed in Philadelphia； and shipped in sections via the Isthmus of Panama to San Francisco； and thence around Cape Lucas into the Gulf of California； to the mouth of the Colorado River。 Yet he was able to report； doubtless with a clear conscience； that Johnson's company 〃was unable to spare a boat； except for a compensation beyond the limits of the appropriation。〃
Ives' Report and Accompanying Pictures。 Ives' report is a most interesting document； and the pictures that accompany it； made by Mollhausen and Eggloffstein； especially those of the latter artist； are wonderful in their imaginative qualities。 They are no more like the Grand Canyon than are the visions of Dore； yet they afford a good idea of the impression its vastness and sublimity made upon an artistic mind。
Starts up the River。 Ives ascended the river； passing Johnson on the way in the Mohave Valley； a few miles above the Needles。 The latter had gone to ferry Lieutenant Beale and his outfit across the river。 So in reality he was ahead of Ives； for he entered the Black Canyon to the highest point attainable by steamers before Ives did； and thus got the better of the man who had refused to hire him and his steamer。
Journey Is Abandoned。 But Ives went on as if Johnson had never existed； 〃discovered〃 what was already known； viz。： that the river 〃was flanked by walls many hundreds of feet in height； rising perpendicularly out of the water； the Colorado emerging from the bowels of the range；〃 and then struck a sunken rock； and had to give up in disgust。
Returns East across Country
