the grand canyon of arizona-第3章
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But a thousand men of majesty could be placed unseen in one tiny rift in this gorge； and all the sequoias of the world could be planted in one stretch of this Canyon； and never be noticed by the most careful watcher on the rim。
Another； reaching the Canyon at night； declared that she and her companions seemed to be 〃standing in midair； while below； the dark depths were lost in blackness and mystery。〃 Again mere words！ words！ For whoever stood in mid…air？
Still another calls it 〃the most ineffable thing that exists within the range of man；〃 and later explains when he stands on the brink of it； 〃And where the Grand Canyon begins； words stop。〃 Yet he goes on and uses about four more pages of words； and pictures after words have stopped； to tell what he felt and saw。 And the remarkable thing is that his experience is that of all the wisest men who have ever seen it。 They know they cannot describe it； but they proceed to exhaust their vocabularies in talking about it； and in trying to make clear to others what they saw and felt。 And in this very fact what a wonderful tribute lies to the power of the Canyon； that a wise and prudent man is led to strive to do what he vows he will not do； and knows he cannot do。
One well…known poet exclaims： 〃It was like sudden death。〃 yet she is still alive。 Again； after breakfast； she wrote： 〃My courage rose to meet the greatness of the world。〃 Then she 〃crawled half prostrate〃 to the barest and highest rocks she could find on the rim； and confessed： 〃It made a coward of me； I shrank and shut my eyes； and felt crushed and beaten under the intolerable burden of the flesh。 For humanity intrudes here； in these warm and glowing purple spaces disembodied spirits must range and soar； souls purged and purified and infinitely daring。〃 Yet here I have heard the wild brayings of hungry mules and the worse ravings of angry mennone of them impressed as was the soul of the poet。
One money…making business man declared that he went to the rim at night…time； and when he and his friends reached the spot they put forth their hands and found〃an absolute end。 We clutched vainly at black space。 To fathom this space we thrust over a big stone。 No sound came back。 The pit was bottomlessthe grave of the world。 The mystery fascinated； the void beckoned。 We scarcely knew why we did not obey the summonswhy we did not abandon the present； and； by following the big stone； escape to the future。〃 And yet he had no urgent creditors bothering him。 His financial position was secure and unquestioned。 His family relations were all that could be desired。 Wonderful； indeed； that a mere feature of natural scenery could have led him to wonder why he didn't leave all the luxuries and certainties of life； and leap into the unknown future！ Yet that is just the way the Canyon affected a sober business man of steady judgment。
A well…known writer declares： 〃It is a paradox of chaos and repose； of gloom and radiance； of immeasurable desolation and enthralling beauty。 It is a despair and a joy； a woe and an ecstasy； a requiem and a hallelujah； a world…ruin and a world…gloryeverything in antithesis of such titanic sort。〃 I agree with him； and regard his expressions as indicative of my own sensations。
Yet； when a reverend gentleman calls it a 〃delirium of nature；〃 I cannot agree with him。 The delirium might be in his own mind； but there is no delirium here。 Neither does it seem to me that a certain university president expresses things with any more wisdom or effectiveness； when he says that it 〃impressed him with its infinite laziness。〃 Lazy？ When once； in the far…distant past； after rising from the primeval sea； it sank back again and deposited twelve thousand feet of strata； then lifted them out into the sunshine； carved eleven thousand feet of them away； and sent them dashing down the river to fill up the Gulf of California and make the Mohave and Colorado Deserts？ Lazy？ When； after that was done； it sank again； and allowed a thousand feet of Cambrian to be deposited； then two thousand feet of Carboniferous； then Permian； Triassic； Jurassic and Cretaceous； until the three thousand feet were increased to two miles of deposits。 Then it began to lift itself up again。 Lazy？ When lifting up two miles' thickness of strata for the clouds and their children to carve away？ And it lifted and lifted； until it destroyed a vast Eocene lake； which covered as large an area as perhaps half a dozen Eastern States； and at the same time carried away about twelve thousand feet of strata。 Lazy？ When you consider that from north to south； for a hundred or more miles； the whole region has been heaving and tossing； curving and buckling； arching and crumpling its strata； faulting by rising； faulting by sinking； until the geologist who would study the faults finds； in the area of one half…mile； near the mouth of Shinumo Creek； his work for a lifetime cut out for him。
No！ No！ Mr。 College President！ You must look more fully。 You must guess again！ The Canyon is not lazy。 It is merely a gigantic natural representation of yourself。 You are the embodiment of energy of body； mind and soul； yet you are never seen hurried or disturbed。 You have the serenity of genius。 So with the Canyon。 It has done and is doing great things。 It has been a persistent worker during the millions of years of its existence； but it has the calm serenity of consciousness of strength。 What you took to be laziness is the restfulness of divine power。
When First Seen。 These are some of the effects the Canyon has upon men。 I once walked up to the rim with a lawyer； who to…day is one of the foremost figures of the San Francisco bar； a man of lion…like courage and almost reckless bravery。 At the first glimpse he fell on his knees； clasped me around mine； and begged me to take him away； declaring that a gift of all Arizona would not lead him to take another glimpse into its awesome depths。
I know of one lady who； for weeks afterwards； would wake up almost every night； and feel herself falling into the fathomless gorge。
Yet the next day the lawyer went with me down to the river； and to this day declares it was the 〃most memorable trip of his life；〃 while the timid lady； to my own knowledge； has made over five trips to the Canyon。
Those of less susceptible nerves cannot conceive the effect the first sight of the Canyon produces upon such supersensitive natures as these to which I have referred。 I have seen strong men fall upon their knees。 I have seen women； driven up to the rim unexpectedly； lean away from the Canyon； the whole countenance an index of the terror felt within； gasp for breath； and though almost paralyzed by their dread of the indescribable abyss； refuse either to close their eyes or turn them away from it。 Some few remain away for a day or two until their nerves become more steady。 Yet I have never known one of these susceptible observers； these keenly sensitive natures that； on due consideration； has not been thankful for the experience； and in every case has either returned to fully enjoy the Canyon； or has longed to do so。
But； you ask； what is the Canyon for？ The answer is simple； and reveals a very humble task as the main work of this vast and gorgeously…colored abyss。 It merely acts as the home of a great river； that for hundreds of miles does not serve a single useful purpose to man。
Yet purely material uses are of the lowest kind。 The Grand Canyon has a far higher mission than that I have spoken of； and others that are suggested in various chapters of this book。 The Grand Canyon is God's greatest gift of His material handiwork in visible form on our earth。 It is an expression of His divine thought； it is a manifestation of His divine love。 It is a link； a wonderful connecting link； between the human and the Divine； between man and his Great Creator； his Loving Father； Almighty God。
CHAPTER II。 On The Grand Canyon Railway To El Tovar
History of the Grand Canyon Railway。 The Grand Canyon Railway leaves the main line of the Santa Fe at Williams； Arizona。 It is an integral part of the Atchison； Topeka and Santa Fe Railway System； that operates its own lines between Chicago； Los Angeles and San Francisco。
Though surveys had been made years ago from
