the grand canyon of arizona-第12章

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ner　and　prospector；　who；　in　the　early　eighties；　made　this　basin　his　home　while　engaged　in　prospecting　operations　in　the　Canyon。

As　the　plateau　passes　across　the　basin　and　out　to　the　open　Canyon；　the　scene　becomes　more　and　more　enlarged；　until　it　is　stupendous　and　vast　beyond　description。　Down　on　the　right；　Hermit　Creek　cuts　its　narrow　path　deeper　and　deeper；　until　it　reaches　the　red…wall　limestone；　where　it　makes　a　narrow　gorge；　that；　from　the　elevation　of　the　plateau；　seems　more　like　a　mere　slit　in　the　rock　than　a　gorge。　Louis　Boucher　assures　me　that　it　is　so　narrow　and　deep　that　he　has　seen　stars　from　its　recesses　at　midday；　and　I　record　his　statement　in　spite　of　the　fact　that　eminent　astronomers　have　told　me　that　such　a　sight　is　impossible。　Anyhow；　the　effect　of　that　stupendous　descent　is　such　as　to　almost　make　the　rider　on　the　trail　see　stars；　though　there　is　no　danger　to　any　one　with　ordinarily　steady　nerves。　Two　miles　out；　one　sees　the　continuation　of　one　arm　of　the　Bright　Angel　fault　in　the　shattered　strata　of　the　red　sandstone；　some　masses　of　which　are　toppled　over　at　the　base　of　Pima　Point。　It　was　this　fault　that　made　the　talus　slopes；　down　which　the　Boucher　Trail　descends；　and　also　the　great　eroded　recess　of　Hermit　Basin。

Columbus　Point。　The　nose　of　the　plateau　on　which　we　have　been　traveling；　now　directly　under　Yuma　Point；　is　named　Columbus　Point；　and　from　this　spot；　where　several　noted　American　painters　have　made　paintings　destined　to　become　memorable；　the　outlook　in　three　directions；　east；　west；　and　north；　forms　one　of　the　noblest　of　all　the　panoramas　of　the　Canyon　my　eye　has　ever　rested　upon。　Shiva's　Temple　is　almost　directly　opposite；　as　we　look　towards　the　northeast。　Stretches　of　the　river　are　exposed　east　and　west；　where　raging　rapids　send　up　their　roar　to　us。　Overhead　is　a　great　castellated　structure；　surmounted　by　a　lesser　building；　with　a　round　tower；　embattlements　and　all　the　architectural　accompaniments　of　an　elaborately　equipped　castle　of　ancient　Europe。　An　attempt　to　describe　all　the　objects　seen　in　the　heart　of　the　Canyon　is　needless。　Suffice　it　to　say　that　the　panorama　takes　in　every　tower；　temple；　butte　and　structure；　seen　from　Point　Sublime　on　the　north　side；　or　any　of　the　points　on　the　south　side；　from　Havasupai　Point　on　the　east；　to　Yavapai　Point　on　the　west；　and　includes　Wotan's　Throne；　Vishnu　Temple；　and　the　wall　of　the　Little　Colorado　to　the　faraway　east。

On　the　Lower　Trail　to　the　River。　The　trail　then　winds　under　Yuma　Point；　and　zigzags　down　the　thinner　strata　of　the　red　sandstones　on　to　the　red…wall　limestones；　where　it　affords　more　extended　views　on　a　lower　plateau　of　lesser　area；　the　rocky　butte　on　the　end　of　which　is　named　Bunker　Hill　Monument。　From　this　plateau　another　rapid　descent　is　made　through　masses　of　rock　to　the　bed　of　Long　（or　Boucher）　Creek；　where；　at　the　distance　of　about　a　mile　from　the　river；　is　located　the　lower　camp。　Here　Boucher　has　planted　a　garden　of　all　kinds　of　vegetables；　and　with　seventy…five　trees；　which　include　oranges；　figs；　peaches；　pears；　apricots；　apples；　nectarines；　and　pomegranates；　he　boasts　of　his　melons；　canteloupes；　beets；　onions；　tomatoes；　chile；　carrots；　cucumbers；　parsnips；　etc。；　and　I　can　vouch　for　the　sweet　and　refreshing　qualities　of　his　melons。　Tomatoes；　ripe　and　green；　covered　his　vines　in　January；　and　he　has　them　throughout　the　year。　It　needs　no　comment　to　explain　how　delightful　fresh　vegetables　are；　after　one　has　made　this　trail　trip；　especially　if　it　should　be　in　the　hot　summer　months。

Good　and　comfortable　beds　and　other　camp　accommodations　are　provided　here；　so　that　a　stop　may　be　made　over　night。　In　the　morning；　the　river　is　visited；　and　the　return　trip　accomplished　in　easy　time　for　dinner。　The　distance　from　rim　to　river　has　not　been　measured；　but　it　is　estimated　to　be　from　eight　to　ten　miles。

Boucher　also　has　a　copper　mine；　rich　in　mineral。　He　claims　that　it　is　a　continuation　of　the　copper　ledge　of　Bass's　mine；　and　is　possibly　the　same　deposit　that　continues　east　to　the　Canyon　Copper　Company's　mine　on　the　Berry　Trail。

The　return　trip　can　be　made　over　various　routes；　including　the　ascent　of　Bass　or　Bright　Angel　Trails；　but　a　majority　of　visitors　will　wish　to　return　by　way　of　Hermit　Trail；　across　Hermit　Basin　from　Boucher　Trail。　In　that　way　they　will　get　the　experience　of　using　two　trails　with　their　different　outlooks　and　a　journey　across　the　plateau　down　in　the　Canyon；　as　well　as　a　drive　back　to　El　Tovar　on　Hermit　Rim　Road。



CHAPTER　VII。　How　Fully　To　See　And　Know　The　Grand　Canyon　Region

Advantages　of　Camping　Trips。　The　suggestions　in　this　chapter　are　mainly　for　the　strenuous　and　strong；　though　this　by　no　means　excludes　members　of　the　gentle　sex。　Many　women　and　girlssome　who　have　never　before　been　on　horsebackhave　made　these　extended　trips；　even　those　that　have　required　weeks　of　rough　camping。　For　detailed　particulars　of　the　scenery；　those　interested　are　referred　to　the　various　chapters　devoted　to　the　respective　trails。　The　transportation　department　at　El　Tovar　is　under　the　control　of　competent　men；　and　is　thoroughly　well　equipped　to　send　visitors　on　prolonged　camping　trips　with　everything　needed　for　a　week；　a　month；　or　six　months。　It　is　merely　a　question　of　time　and　meeting　the　necessary　expense。　On　the　occasion　of　my　last　visit　to　El　Tovar；　a　small　party　of　both　sexes　was　equipped　and　started　out　for　a　trip　to　last　fully　three　weeks。　Reference　to　the　chapter　entitled　〃Across　the　Grand　Canyon　to　Point　Sublime；〃　mainly　written　as　her　diary　by　an　elderly　lady；　will　give　the　ideas　of　a　woman　who　had　next　to　no　previous　experience　of　the　hardships；　as　well　as　the　immediate　enjoyments　of　such　a　trip。　But　no　one　can　estimate　the　continual　source　of　delight　and　pleasure　the　memories　of　such　a　trip　are　to　those　who　have　resolutely　faced　and　overcome　the　merely　temporary　discomforts　entailed。　The　experiences　with　the　burros；　the　surprises　of　the　scenery；　the　exquisite　delight　of　the　perfect　rest　and　dreamless　sleep　one　enjoys；　after　the　first　few　nights　of　novelty　are　worn　off；　the　satisfaction　of　seeing　and　knowing　much　of　the　most　sublime　piece　of　natural　scenery　on　earth；　are　compensations　and　satisfactions　enough。

Down　Bright　Angel　Trail。　After　one　has　gained　the　slight　knowledge　of　the　Canyon　afforded　by　the　easier　trips　described；　let　him　plan　to　make　the　following　as　〃a　starter〃　in　his　more　thorough　investigation。　With　a　good　guide；　pack　animals　carrying　a　full　equipment　of　sleeping；　cooking　and　eating　necessities；　plenty　of　water　in　canteens；　one　or　two　extra　canvasses　in　case　of　rain；　a　note…book；　and　pencils　or　fountain　pen；　a　compass　and　barometer　for　altitude　readings；　and　the　United　States　Geological　Survey　maps　of　the　region；　one　is　ready　to　make　a　〃good　start。〃　Descend　the　Bright　Angel　Trail　to　the　river；　study　the　formations　all　the　way　down；　get　a　clear　idea　of　the　relative　positions　of　the　strata；　and　learn　to　detect　them　by　the　individualistic　appearances　of　wall；　temple；　butte；　etc。；　and　examine　the　so…called　cliff…dwellings　hidden　away　in　the　Tonto　sandstones　before　descending　on　the　gneiss　into　Pipe　Creek　Canyon。　Arrived　at　the　river；　spend　a　day　there　investigating　the　peculiar　foldings　and　tiltings　of　the　Algonkian　strata。　Sleep；　as　did　Powell　and　his　men　for　weeks；　on　the　sands　of　the　Colorado　River；　with　the　noise　of　the　rapids　ever　in　your　ears。　Breathe　the　pure　air；　and　watch　the　solemn　march　of　the　stars。

Have　you　ever　noticed　how　delicious　the　most　ordinary　food　is；　when　cooked　and　eaten　in　the　open　air；　after　a　day　of　reasonable　exertion？　Climbing；　riding；　and　walking　expand　the　lungs；　and　this　means　the　absorption　of　immeasurably　more　oxygen。　Weak　stomachs；　fickle　appetites；　dyspeptic　symptoms；　insomnia；　blue　devils　and　a　score　of　the　ills　that　human　flesh　is　heir　to；　disappear　before　the　floods　of　sunshine　and　oxygen　that　bathe　the　body；　inside　and　out；　of　the　man　or　woman　who　gladly　accepts　the　outdoor　life；　even　though　only　for　a　short　time；　in　this　Canyon　region。

These　philosophizings　are　aroused　by　the　smell　of　bacon　frying　over　the　camp…fire；　or　the　crack　of　a　fine；　mealy　Arizona　potato；　roasting　in　the　ashes；　or　a　whiff　from　the　coffee…pot；　just　about　to　topple　over　on　the　burning　stick